If you are mowing correctly, with a good, sharp mulching blade, then the clippings should fall down into the grass and add nutrients and organic matter back to the soil. A mulch mower's blade is angled on the trailing edge, which lifts the clippings up allowing the blade to further cut the clippings into smaller pieces. Mowing correctly means cutting off no more than 1/3 of the total lengh the blade, mowing only a dry lawn, using a sharp blade, and mowing at one of the higher settings of the mower. So let's say you want to mow the grass down to 3 inches which is a good length for most cool season grasses. Then you should cut it when it is around 4 to 4.33 inches.(Since you are in Seattle, you can probably go lower in height due to the plentiful rain, but definitely not lower than the recommended mowing heights for whatever type of grass you have. Let's say 2 inches at the lowest for Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial rye, 2.5 inches for tall fescue). Cutting more than 1/3 of the blade is too stressful for the grass, plus the pieces might not get cut up small enough to make it down to the soil. Using the side discharge is not recommended as it leaves rows of grass clippings that can't make it down to the soil, and can have detrimental effects if it doesn't dry up and blow away. The dogs might pick up some clippings, but most of them will make their way to the soil as soon as they are cut.

"Personally, I think the dislike of Craftsman equipment is based upon the total image of Sears. They sell about anything you can imagine, and I'll bet everyone has bought 'something' from Sears that they were not happy with, so they associate the word 'junk' to all of Sears merchandise." That association is well deserved. Craftsman used to make many quality products. They are now strictly a value line (even most of their "Professional" series), but their regular prices usually don't reflect that. Their sale prices are closer to what the products are actually worth, and often you can find their products under the product manufacturer name brand for significantly less. Ryobi is a good example of that. A Craftsman mower not on sale is probably overpriced, and people will think they are getting better quality than they actually are. I despise these sales tactics Sears uses, so I usually avoid buying anything from them. I prefer to buy quality products that will last 15-20 years from locally-owned dealers who can service what they sell. In the long run, I feel that is more cost effective, better for my local economy, creates less trash, and the equipment is more enjoyable to use. I had a Yardman mower, it only lasted about 6 years before falling apart and really just does not compare at all to my new Toro in terms of performance or quality. I am much happier mowing now. Happier being a relative term of course ;) I'll never buy another cheap mower. All Craftsmans are not necessarly junk, and a good deal is still a good deal provided you know exactly what you are buying. But if you can afford it, I feel a quality mower is a good investment. I do own some Craftsman tools. But I didn't pay anywhere near full price for them. For $120, and considering you don't expect it to last 15 years, I don't really see why you shouldn't think you got a good deal. People who try to claim Craftsman is just as good as the premiums mowers are a different issue.

I guess I'm the Dad in this case! I do remember having an el cheapo power mower (person propelled) when I was a kid (red and perhaps Western Auto) and using it for everything - a field at the rear of the house comes to mind... one day it was 3 feet high, the next it was "lawn". Anyway, everyone is always dumping on Craftsman tools and power equipment. I'm still using my Craftsman Eager One, 5HP, Tecumseh engine, that I purchased in 1984. I don't recall it ever failing to start except when the switch I installed to replace the dead-man handle died. It smokes, uses oil, but still cuts better than my $500 Troy-Bilt. At the beginning of the summer, I ran over a rock and bent the blade so that it was actually digging into the ground. Had to replace the blade plate and blade, but didn't faze the crankshaft or the upper crankshaft shear pins. The only maintenance I've ever done is occasionally replace the air filter, less occasionally replace the spark plug (do clean it annually), and change the oil. I think it is coming to the end of its long life and really hate the thought of getting rid of it. It really needs a total engine rebuild (chassis, etc. is still fine - no rust but lots of scrapes), but I just don't have the abilities. JimC

I have found by my experience with fixing Craftsman lawn mowers, that there are several types of baggers on them. One type when looking at the side of it where it fits against the mower deck opening, is straight in the wire frame vertical section. The other type, when viewed from the side, the upper 3 inches is bent back at 45d. All of the ones i have seen have the wire frame made right into the bagger. And there are 2 types of metal cover flaps. One type of bag won't fit where the other type attaches. And, you must make sure the hook tabs are already installed, or made right into the vertical plate, where the bag hangs on. Best bet is to go to a lawn mower repair shop, and see if they might have a used mower deck, and bagger that you can make fit. By that, i mean without anything more than just hanging it on. Its hard to tell you just how to do it, but i think, if you first looked at repair shops, you just might find a pile of old mowers that you could find just what you need. Let me say this: I'd just go out and buy the mower you need. It'll be a lot less trouble that way, than trying to refit something onto your mower!