part number 93-1211 is the tank version used on m series without oil injection. I know is tank is very simular to the 93-1208 and even still has the oil tank on the right half of the assembly however both ends are closed off in the molding. Im sure you could drill out the opening in the bottom for oil line and figure out the other hook ups too. Im not sure as far as what electrical hook ups are needed though. the 93-1211 is still in production or at least in inventory accoding to recent price lists for under $60. I got the basic m series push model and feel its a great machine other then being very heavy. I know m series had alot of flaws but overall is a nice machine

Your mower has run well for 24 years on LB oil, and you think there is a better oil because someone claims it is better? There might be synthetics that smoke less and may not carbon up the exhaust ports as fast but you pay a premium for that and obviously the LB oil hasnt hurt your mower one bit. I would be more concerned about ways to keep your fuel supply clean and moisture free, and other maintenance issues.

'I've replace the blade (because they bent that too) and the sparkplug' They hit something and bent the blade. It's possible the flywheel indexing key in the crankshaft under the flywheel sheared, changing the spark timing. Under normal conditions a 4-cycle will run fine with 2-cycle mix and usually won't even smoke.

Gentlemen, your tips and help are much appreciated, thanks. I've been reading through posts on LB's and can see there is a pretty large cult following. First thing that attracted me was the interesting body design and LB green paint. But I thought that 2 strokes in general had a shorter life span than 4 strokes, though this thing IS 21-23 years old and running just fine... I've only run about one tank on this and it did smoke a fair amount. I will try the 50:1 synthetic and see what happens. I will also try to figure out why the rear drive isn't working. The guy a I bought it from (for $30) mentioned that the shaft was newer.