Scott's lawn care service & my horrendous lawn
taraleigh
15 years ago
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Comments (9)
iforgotitsonevermind
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Lawn Care - DIY or Hire a service?
Comments (9)Its always a question whether, after seeing the vehicles towing trailers with the large tanks of what is supposed to be herbicides, pesticides and besides, how much is going to cost to do it yourself. I've always thought if I hired a spray company, I'd want to take a sample of the spray and let the guy know I was going to get it checked out for effectiveness. Would he then suggest "he's forgotten something back at the office and will be back to do your lawn shortly". If the weed control is on a guaranteed kill or a free return spray, you might take him at his word but...... do not pay him up front. Pay a little, with the remainder in the time specified he says the weeds will be taken care of. There are just too many fly-by-nighters---and they don't wait for night to fly, in taking money that, when you think they do it to hundred of householders, a lot of money goes where the weeds don't. Any reputable dealer will take a pay-as-he-kills schedule and offer some form of guaranteed results. D I Y, you can make up your own strengths of mix but does require you getting out and doing it. If you do it...WEAR A MASK....ALWAYS, WHEN SPRAYING A HERBICIDE OR INSECTICIDE---- ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE OF CHILD-BEARING AGE....See MoreHelp my lawn! attempting organic lawn care in Menlo Park CA
Comments (14)Also for watering: the soil looks too dry too soon currently. Mine, too--and I have no real problems. The very top surface of the soil dries out really fast in sun and wind, but that doesn't mean there isn't water underneath. You can test that by pushing a screwdriver into the soil. If it goes in fairly easily (barring rocks), your soil is damp. Or drive a small trowel into it and separate it into a V shape by rocking it a little bit. That'll give you a direct visual on how deep the water is. Here would be my plan: for now do very frequent waterings to help really wet the soil, I'm not familiar with California (except for the part about moderate temperatures and no rain), but this doesn't sound like a good idea--it encourages shallow roots and lawn diseases. The standard is 1" of water a week, all at once (well, within a day to allow for on/off cycles to allow the water to penetrate). For sandy soil your mileage will differ because the water wicks out fast and goes very deep very quickly. I will also probably try milorganite as a jump start, as I fear my soil is probably pretty depleted. I swear by it, others don't (it is processed sewage, but heated enough to kill everything in it). The 18 lbs/thousand square feet I put down last weekend kicked in and it's a rainy week. The grass, since Sunday, has grown one and a half inches and gone a deeper green. Once it stops raining, I'll mow. I went high, but I'm going to renovate this fall--with a deep, heavy core aeration I want lots of organics mixing into the holes. I alternate it with alfalfa and soy. When I started (early last year), my soil profile was slightly silty clay, poor drainage, very poor water penetration, hard as a rock, and a light tan. It had been corn field for as long as I could remember prior to building, and even my parents don't remember when it wasn't. Call it 40 years of abuse. Now it's still slightly silty clay (nothing's going to change that short of a renovation down to a foot or more). Drainage is fair to good, penetration is good to excellent, the soil is still hard when dry (it's supposed to be), but spongy when wet. The top half-inch is black, another inch is deep brown, and a good three inches below that have turned a midrange brown. Everything grows better and more strongly. I'm very pleased. Some older photos are here. I have to update them--the grass has improved since these were taken and the season advanced a bit....See MoreScott's Lawn Service free analysis by satellite??
Comments (14)Here's another example. Scotts Summerguard fertilizer. Here's the description from their website: How to Use: Apply to a dry lawn, then water-in thoroughly to activate the product. For best results, use a Scotts® spreader. When to Apply: Apply in summer when bugs present. Where to Use: Can be used on any grass type. Coverage Area: 5,000 sq. ft., 15,000 sq. ft. 2.67 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. What it Controls: Insects: ants, armyworms, billbugs, chiggers, chinch bugs, crickets, fleas, grasshoppers, mole crickets, mealy bugs, sod webworms (lawn moth larvae), spiders, ticks, weevils. Benefits: Feeds and strengthens against heat and drought. Kills and protects against bugs. Improves lawns ability to absorb water and nutrients. Fertilizer Analysis: 28-0-8 So they say put this down anytime in summer, and it is a high N fertilizer, something not advised to do in the heat of summer. Also it lists bugs that are pests, but I have to believe it's not so good for earthworms or harmless bugs that live in your lawn. Way to go Scotts....See MoreFired Scott's Lawn service, now what??!
Comments (2)Many irises and daylilys thrive in ditch conditions. Cattails would be on my list as well. Hostas and clematis love moisture, although not constantly wet feet. Up here, enlish ivy will grow everywhere, and is considered invasive, so you probably don't want that. I know that there are others, but since I have mostly dry soil, I don't pay attention too much to plants requiring lots of moisture. Cutting the bank could be done with a weed wacker or even a hand tool, depending on size of the ditch. Goats work well from what I've heard....See Moresophie12
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agolou_spicewood_tx
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoiforgotitsonevermind
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agodchall_san_antonio
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agopeter6345
8 years agoTom
8 years agodchall_san_antonio
8 years ago
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