Thanks for your reply. However, your psychic senses are wrong. I do tend to analyze things, especially when it's regarding a new endeavor/field I have no prior knowledge/experience of. It has yielded outstanding results for me in the past and so I continue to approach things in this manner. Regarding seeding too late - well, first off, I just took possession of the house so I couldn't seed earlier. Also, I live in Edmonton, Alberta Canada and if you've ever lived here, you would know that our summer is pretty much about 2 weeks long. lol Anyway, When I did the overseeding, it was about beginning of June and temperatures were about 10 C - 20 C and we've been getting a lot of rain lately. In fact, we're just starting to go up to highs of 20 C - 25 C and in about 5 days is the first day we're supposed to hit 29 C, as per the forecast. I know that Spring and Fall are the textbook times to overseed but our weather/termperatures here does not conform to the norm. Our temperatures in October are already winter temperatures for a lot of places in the States. Also, I did not want to wait until fall because I wanted to get started on thickening the lawn asap. I was confused with this statement though: "But you are just now coming into spring...and fall is just around the corner." Spring is technically done..did you mean, "just coming into summer"? I usually mow at around 4 -5 inches and only take a bit off. I know all about the "only take 1/3 off" and "mow high" recommendations. I only scalped it this one time to prepare for overseeding to facilitate better seed to soil contact. I've read about the roller thing but decided that it wasn't needed. I did not want to compact things any more either especially since I was core aerating. I ran my rake through the soil and seeds to enhance seed to soil contact and this is a technique that has been recommended in several articles and videos. I also did not want to bury the seeds too deep. In fact, I already have baby grass growing to about heights of 2 inches now. I only noticed them yesterday and they are even much taller today. I like your idea of sowing KBG first, then fescue then PRG but here's the thing - I have not found any stand alone seed packages in my local Walmart/Home Depot/Canadian Tire stores. They are all blends. I haven't gone to garden centers though but that's also because I do not want to pay more for something that sells less at Home Depot. Also, I think this says something.. I think that for our climate and grass types, the seed blends probably tend to work better. I think this is evidenced by the fact that I primarily see Scotts Sun and Shade being sold in all these places and not the other types - i.e. high traffic, high heat etc.. Also, this blend tends to get the best reviews on Canadian Tire.com. The other thing too is that I've read blends were made so that the PRG can germinate first and help establish the turf while the fescue and KBG are taking their sweet time to germinate - helps with thickening up lawn quicker and crowding out weeds. If I wanted to wait (or had the luxury to do so - i.e. lawn isn't too bare) the full 21-28 days, then I would probably just seed with pure KBG and not worry about blends. I've decided to wait with the dandelions. I've emailed Scotts and they said to wait after mowing the new grass 3 times before using Killex as it destroys grass seed and new grass. Just wondering why you say spot spraying is far better than broadcast anything. I just feel that if Killex is safe to use on an established lawn, it would be more efficient to just broadcast it, in terms of time and coverage. Regarding my neighbor's lawn - I'm not worried that her lawn looks like crap..I just feel that her dandelions are invading my lawn and I can see that most of the dandelions on my lawn are on the side close to hers. Anyway, I'm just gonna keep mowing high and hopefully it gets thick enough to crowd out weeds and hopefull I won't have too many dandelions and I'll just deal with them as they come.

I'm glad that you are happy with your purchase. I have a ten year old Honda. My experience: The engine is indestructable. After 10 years, the carb has gotten gummed up and my choke sticks. Not unreasonable. Simple solution was to quit using the choke. It still starts first pull most of the time even without choking it. I will get around to cleaning the carb one of these days. No complaints about the deck. My deck is steel and shows no rust and very little wear. I have the double blade mulch setup and it does a good job mowing. I mulch most of the time and it only leaves cut grass on top of the lawn if I let it get too long before cutting. But...... I have a slight incline in my yard. Slight. I've had to replace the wheels once because they wore smooth and slid on the incline. I'm getting ready to replace them again because the second set it almost smooth. BTW, my lawn is about 1/3 acre, a corner lot in a subdivision. Cables. I have to replace the cable to the self propelled clutch about every other year. There doesn't seem to be anything that is stressing it, it just breaks after a while. I've replaced the safety/blade clutch cable a couple of times as well. The self propelled cable also needs adjusted yearly. The clamp holding it doesn't seem to be as secure as it should be and it slips, causing the self propelled mechanism to be hit or miss. The bagger frame. It fell apart. Three welds just gave up and it fell to pieces. New ones are quite costly and the replacement seems to be constructed exactly the same as the old one. The fabric bag actually lasted longer than the frame! The handle. The paint came off of it after a couple of years where I hold it while mowing. This isn't my first go around with a mower and I've never had this happen with far cheaper models. I had to cover it with electrical tape to keep it from rusting. Also, the plastic bracket on the right holding the two drive levers crumbled after a couple of years. These are all niggling problems to me because I do the repairs myself. I've always managed to figure a way to mow even when it is broken. On the other hand, if I had to take it in for repair every time, I would probably be pretty unahppy. I'm sure I've spent enough to buy a new one and my wife mentions that every time it breaks. I just hate to get rid of it when the engine and deck are working so well. I'll probably consider Toro and Snapper whenever I break down and decide to replace it.

I am by far not an expert grass guy but I can give you some insight into what I have learned after starting 3 large lawn areas under less than ideal conditions. It sounds like you have done a great job so far. IMHO I would mow your grass will be 2 feet tall if you wait for it all to germinate and be 3" tall. Sure your going to crush/damage/kill some seedlings but how many are you going to lose if they are deprived of sunshine? Plus you will be stressing your existing grass by chopping too much off. The clippings, if anything, will help retain moisture for them. I try not to step on or roll over known seeded areas, sounds like this might be hard for you. I agree with waiting 8-10 mowings to broadcast spray. I have killed seedlings by jumping the gun. I personally would wait till fall. You could spot spray and will only risk killing seedlings with the over spray or, thanks to a user here, use a small paint brush and paint each one. I over seed my lawns every spring and fall. I broadcast spray with killex the day before I am going to seed. Watch home depot and the like in late fall. They usually blow out seeds and other gardening stuff at pennies on the dollar. One thing that really helped me and my lawns was buying a soil test kit. I test my soil about 3 times a year (spring, mid summer, fall) to find out what it is lacking and buy fertilizer to balance it out. I didn't realize my soil was very alkaline and after dropping the PH my lawn is doing WAY better. Good luck SCG

g'day tony, the best self propelled mower is the snapper mate for me nothing comes near them. yes apparently b&s getting a bad name but me i'm usually wary of bad hype as lots comes from lack of understanding by the regular user. i had the b&s on my greenfield shredder it worked just as well as the 20+ year old motor on my mower but then after years of fixing mowers i do give them good servicing oil is cheaper than motors. masport of course are new zealand mowers. the honda motor is getting good market share most professionals use honda motors. and of course victa no longer aussie owned sunbeam (usa) took them over when i was still repairing mowers over 20 years agao and i saw of late that sunbeam has been taken over by someone else. as far as i know rover and greenfield are true aussie machines but they don't use aussie motors there just isn't one good enough that was ever made here, they use b&s and honda at the very least. and the demise of the 2 stroke motor is well under way as per EPA regulations rules and sunbeam/victa knew all this when i was still repairing mowers so it is nothing new in the usa their home grown 2 stroke mower manufacturer has stopped production of its 2 strokes. len