Couple things first jangell. A. I can't get the thread you are referencing to work. GW says "opps!" B. Spend a little time researching "poa annua" Studies have shown that it is mainly a winter annual that germinates in fall, once soil temps drop below 70 degrees. However, they are also finding strains that germinate in spring, again when soil temps rise into the 50's. So really, it is a two headed monster. There is a lot of info out there to be read, this is just an example - http://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_taking_control/ To answer your questions: >"1. Dimension - Can this be purchased in the western part of the US (NorthWet - Seattle to be exact) What brand name is it sold under? " I believe so, why not? Look on the labels of the bags for the herbicide named Dithiopyr. Scotts does NOT use Dithiopr, although house brand names at Lowes and Home Depot do. >"2. Granular vs liquid" It is available either way. Home owners will use granular because of cost. Pros will buy liquid which comes in LARGE quantities. We're talking $700 for the smallest container. >"3. Aerating - Before or after putting down dimensions" (sigh) ...It is my belief that weed problems, such as a poa annua infestation are caused by core aerating. When you read my link above or research further, you will learn that poa annua seeds remain viable under the soils surface for YEARS. Aerating brings this hidden soil with the viable seeds to the surface - then they receive the moisture, warmth and sunlight to germinate. I believe in "let a sleeping dog lie" and not aerate ... not disturbing the soil at all. So to answer your question - if you feel you really must aerate, then aerate first and then after irrigating the core plugs, apply the pre-emergent herbicide. Hopefully whatever junk you brought up to the surface will not germinate because of the herbicide ... maybe. I personally refuse to aerate because this risk out weighes the rewards. >"I want to desperately control the spread of the POA and can use some help." Do a split application then. Concentrate on poa annua's germination time frames. Apply early spring (disregarding crab grass germination time frame, ie drop earlier) and then again in late summer, just before it begins to cool down. FWIW, out on the east coast last year, they had a VERY cool and wet June, and poa annua germinated then. For this reason some are planning three applications this year. It's all about the soil temps. I hope this helps. -Gary

Well nothing you can do about this year other than mechanical removal. Next mid to late October try 5-5-20 .38% Barricade at a rate of 5-pounds per 1000/Ft2.

I put down liquid Dim, never gran, in sept time frame and it WILL help with POA. It is not as good as prograss but it is cheaper per gallon and does more control. Both product here have there pros/cons. The Nov treatment of Dim is a 50/50 here might be okay and might be a waste of time and money. I have found that dim does not have a 3 months window nor effective on many braodleaves. It it slightly less and doing one app is not the best. But doing 2 full apps in the fall and 2 full apps in the spring is illegal. It is over the limit of the AI. Read the 2.5 gallon jug or the bag. Then throwing on Dim in Auguest could/can burn the grass up in the northeast east since it base is pretro (oil). That is why many wait for cooler weight here. Plus if using gran you are adding more then most times, needed.

yes...more simply put I was asking if you had a roll bar of sorts on your mower or if the grass naturally leans over. I did get my height down to around 1.5in before overseeding but the rest of the turf has really taken off from all the watering I've done. I'd rather wait as long as possible considering that I checked the new seedlings and although they are roughly 1-2in tall, they pull right up when I applied just a slight amount of "tug" to them. As for the rest of the lawn (the original sod was laid last spring), the blades are nearing 4in. I did purchase a reel mower which I've read helps reduce damage to seedlings but the reel mower did not come with a bag attachment and the longer I wait, the more thatch I could create with the clippings. The mower I bought also only adjusted to a max 2.25in. (the only one I could find was a "task force" reel mower and I actually plan on returning it once I'm done as I've heard these aren't the best long term) Just feels as though I'm in a catch 22 here. How do you post pics on this forum? I tried with my initial thread but typing out the image brackets b/w my url but it didn't work ( [img][/img] )