Philodendron selloum has frost/rot damage
glen.m.wilson
11 years ago
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birdsnblooms
11 years agoglen.m.wilson
11 years agoRelated Discussions
could this be frost damage?
Comments (22)Steve Thank you so much for the trouble you took to respond. I am new to this forum so I didn't know how to anything, let alone start a new thread. You are absolutely right; the hostas did suffer great stress last year after I moved. The new garden is very exposed to sun and wind and I really didn't know where to put them. Some of them were moved several times to give them some shade in the afternoon. In addition we had a very early hot spring in March last year so the hostas came up very early and flowered early. But then we had a long spell of rain followed immediately by sun, meaning the water on the leaves practically boiled and cooked the leaves. As a result by mid August, when I should have a great display, almost all the leaves on all the hostas where burnt and died. I cover my hostas in the winter with bark chips which seems enough; we don�t have Siberian frost here. I do take the hostas off all the plates so they don�t stand in water which could freeze if it gets below zero. Not all the hostas are dwarfed. Mostly the blue and green such as Big Daddy, sieboldiana, Blue Angel, even miniatures like Blue Mouse Ears. All the blue hostas stood in a place with shade in the morning, but sun in the afternoon. They didn�t cook in the sun as badly as all the other hostas, such as Francee or Gold Standard, yet are most stunted this year. The prevailing wind is from the west, but being close to the North Sea coastline, it changes frequently and we have strong winds from the east as well. I wondered if perhaps the salt in the air could have something to do with the stress on hostas. Finally, in London I had a mostly shaded garden so the hostas were in dappled sun all day. They looked stunning, I attach some pics. Here in Suffolk it is a different story. I have planted some climbing plants to give some shade and repositioned all the pots so they are in some shade in the afternoon as much as possible and am hoping for the best. Unfortunately this garden is only a temporary situation for me, so I can�t do anything permanent till I move again to my own house. Thanks again Anna...See Morephilodendron selloum
Comments (36)Merryd, putting pinestraw over the growing crown of the plant is excellent mulch. My 2 big tubs of philodendron had absolutely NO rot in the crown, and no leaf frostbite either. I banked a mix of leaves and pinestraw around the tubs, and only for freezing weather did I cover the plant tops with a tarp and bubblewrap. This also worked for my Kimberly Queen ferns, the white birds of paradise, a dwarf splitleaf philodendron, nun's orchids, and a variegated ginger. I did the same for my colocasia/alocasia/bananas but their trunks/stems had so much water in them that the outer portions turned to mush. They were all planted in the ground, mulched heavily, wrapped with bubble wrap or surrounded by heavy corrugated box material. Our temps got into the low 20s more frequently and oftener this last winter than I ever remember. However, I lost only 2 bananas and 1 elephant ear....See MorePhilodendron Selloum in full sun?
Comments (7)Hi Have a Selloum planted on the N. side of the house since 82. lol Has handled everything Ma Nature has dished out over the years with almost no care. One drawback. It is a clumper and requires serious pruning every now and then. As to "black Magic" it does best in full sun but must have either standing water or very moist soil. It will grow in shade but leaves are not nearly as dark. If you have reliable water great, if not there are many ,many other species of Alocasia that prefer drier locations. One word of warning some get downright gigantic and some are downright invasive lol. Black magic is gorgeous in a water garden lol gary...See MoreSquash plants look frost damaged, but we have not had a frost!!
Comments (11)Ok now I'm really getting confused. There are no indications of frost damage whatsoever in the photos. The plants are clearly anemic. But given the mixed info given there is no sure way to tell why. First, why in zone 5 are these tiny young plants already buried in deep mulch. Far too early as the ground hasn't sufficiently warmed up yet, especially for squash, and cool soil temps can cause nutrient uptake problems. Plus you need to pull the mulch back to a 4-6" circle around the plants until they are well established. All that high carbon mulch is further leaching nitrogen from the plants not to mention encouraging pests. Second, "garden soil enriched with well rotted compost, pure alfalfa pellets, dried chicken feathers and a little lime to counteract our alkaline soil" could easily be NOT "rich" soil since there are minimal if any nutrients in it for the plants. Decomposition takes time - lots of time - and is wholly dependent on soil bacteria activity and soil temps. Third, one should never play around with either lime or sulfa (BIG difference between the two) without absolute knowledge of their soil pH. Doing so only creates further nutrient problems. Fourth, define "well-watered" please. Unfortunately to many new gardeners that often means daily. Which is usually drowning them. IMO your plants need to be UN-mulched for a couple of weeks and fed some form of readily available nutrients and your soil needs to be professionally tested so you know what you are actually working with. Dave...See Morebirdsnblooms
11 years agopirate_girl
11 years agoglen.m.wilson
11 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
11 years agobirdsnblooms
11 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
11 years agobirdsnblooms
11 years agosimonbetta216
11 years ago
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Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL