I test drove it. My grass came out of dormacy early this year so it was already green. But a couple weeks later after applying the fert,my grass really greened up. However,I think its to expensive and Soybean meal works just as good. The Scotts also has a strong odor for a day or so. It may be a good option for someone having a hard time finding an organic fert. I am trying to get Bermuda established and its nitrogen hog. I will make another ap of fertilizer on Memorial Day but I cant make up my mind to use Soybean or coated Urea. Ive never used the coated Urea but it should be cheaper for the Bermudas nitrogen fix. John

One thing I must always keep in mind is that as it relates to gardening in general, the conditions one grows under will determine how that person views the ability to grow. While one person may be fortunate enough to get one inch of rain per week in one part of the country, another may be dealing with a two-year drought in another. One person can go for a drive for 20 minutes and get all the seaweed they want, another in St Louis can only wish, move, or break out the credit card. I always keep that in mind as I read experiences on message boards; location is not to be denied. As it relates to buying fertilizers I am fortunate enough to be able to go to many feed stores and get anything I wish to use. I too can go to a big box store and get some of the goodies they have for sale, if I am willing to pay the price they demand. My experience will dictate my opinion on weather a decision I make is worth the money. I have always wondered how adding a "ka-zillion" more microbes from a compost tea will be of benefit to a well amended soil that has already reached the maximum capacity for sustained growth? I asked that question on a message board and was accused of being a troublemaker. The question of weather buying any item online is worth the money depends on what ones intentions are. To the person that is getting great growth, plenty of rain, and a well-amended soil the answer will be "you are wasting your money". To the person that is caught in the grip of a poorly amended soil, lack of rain, and searing heat will say something entirely different. To one a soaker hose is silly; to another without a soaker hose there would be no garden. Experience, input of others a person trusts, and the lay of the land will forever play into ones answer, and only time can one give a person an opinion based on that moment in time for themselves. The risk involved in owning/planting a garden/farm will forever be in the forefront; there are too many determining factors outside the growerÂs control that can play on the harvest one reaps. This is one of the reasons I enjoy the mantle of "mad (scientist) gardener", one will never know for sure unless they try it and find out. And even then it will only hold true for that moment in time Blutranes

I have to think that even if you don't have extravagant tastes, you will spend more money than a spec house. Just doing things the way they should be done costs more money even if it isn't Brazilian hardwood. Spec houses often leave high $ amounts undone or underdone that you don't immediately notice. Things like small garages, small driveways, small decks, let alone minimal insulation, basic HVAC, limited lights. When you make the decision for the long term, you will spend more money. We spent $150 sq foot - better granite (not level 1), walnut floors, brick (not the cheapest), high end HVAC, a new luxury car's worth of appliances, lots of extra grading work/landscaping, solar hot water, extra insulation, beautiful Ipe screened porch and deck, wainscoting, 3 piece crown, 10 inch baseboards, 3 car garage etc etc. It doesn't sound like you are going to be anywhere near $150. Heck we spent $10k in permitting that I bet won't cost you half that. In most of the non coastal areas, $100 buys a pretty good build. In won't be totally high end but doesn't have to be the cheapest either. Here is some quick math on savings Vinyl vs Brick $7 Basic appliances $8 Laminate floor and counter $4 Basic HVAC (no solar) $3 No screened porch and basic deck $5 Minimal landscaping/no sig grading $6 Average permit cost $2 No trim $3 Basic stairs $2 I got you down to $110 without even trying

snickety First of all, I am going to assume this will be your home for many years. When you speak of gas lines, is this natural gas or propane? I will also assume you are ruling out a grd source geothermal heat pump system. To answer your question, you do not need three separate systems. Here are my ideas. You need a heat/cool load calculation performed(Man J) for correctly sizing new HVAC. Have this done for each of the three areas you refer to in your post. Insist on this and get it in writing. For the main floor, I suggest a two stg heat pump with var spd blower. If you have nat gas, your backup heat can be a two stg 80% AFUE gas furnace. If propane, then forget the gas backup and go for var spd air handler with heat strip backup. For the bonus area, a sgl stg or two stg heat pump would be fine with var speed air handler. I do not like the Rudd quote for all kinds of reasons including brand and entry level equipment. You want systems with a minimum of 15 SEER for cooling and a 9 HSPF for heating with a var spd blower. I would zone the two areas on the first floor off one system and have a small separate system for the upstairs bonus area. Carrier/Bryant have a complete integrated system including zoning with their Infinity/Evolution controllers. Another choice would be Trane. Thus is what I would do if this was my new home and for the area/climate that you live. IMO