did they bloom at the same time? I would prefer Burgundy plum as a pollenizer for Flavor Supreme as it has nice bloom overlap in our area. You can graft a few sticks of Burgundy plum. At late in this season, if you have a nearby friend with Burgundy plum, you can do bark graft with active scionwood. Another alternative is buy the potted Burgundy plum tree and plant it anytime so that you will have blooms for next year and fruit sets hopefully. It is normal for fruits to all drop during the first year, but this is the third year, so something might be wrong. It could be the bloom time overlap, lack of insect pollinators, or incompatibilities. But so far, Burgundy plum is a superb pollenizer for most other plums and pluots.

Alpharetta: It's a little hard to make a firm diagnosis on your tree, even with a photograph, but it appears to me that the tree may have suffered some mechanical or physical trunk damage, perhaps from a lawn tractor or a buck deer. This may have opened the way for a bacterial infection (bacterial canker) as Raintree Nursery has suggested. Bacterial canker is a very common problem in the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast states, and I have taken out a fair number of stone fruit trees that became unhealthy due to this disease. It is a little unusual for this disease to develop on such a young tree, unless it first suffered some damage to open the way for infection. The gummosis suggested by B-boy is a disease with a very similar appearance, but fungal in origin instead of bacterial. I really can't tell the difference between these two diseases by looking at them. Both have the same symptoms, which are bleeding of sap and poor overall health, ending in limb dieback or death of the tree. I agree with you that pluots are delicious fruits, and have tried to grow two varieties here, and one aprium, but after keeping the trees over 10 years I eventually gave up. These fruit varieties, which were developed in California, are just too difficult to grow where there are hot, humid summers. Disease problems were one reason, but difficulty in pollination was another. When you do get a few pluots on the trees, they are extremely attractive to the oriental fruit moth, which will ruin every fruit unless they are constantly sprayed. I reached the same conclusion about nectarines, and have taken out all those trees too, but I can grow very good peaches and some types of plums with much less difficulty. The peaches do require some protection of the fruit from the oriental fruit moth by spraying or bagging in shoe store try-on footies. I agree with Murky that the shoot on the left side of your peach photo appears to be very low in origin, and may be a rootstock shoot. Often, rootstock growth will set peaches, but they will not be the same quality as the grafted variety. I would cut that shoot off, although the other larger shoot doesn't look quite right either, since it branches off so low. Was this tree cut off at some time or did it suffer freeze damage? It appears that it may have lost its grafted scion entirely. I had a peach tree die back at the graft, and when it re-grew from the rootstock the peaches it produced were not good at all, and I eventually took the tree out and replanted. You are doing very well with your English, and your question is quite clear and understood, but we would normally say "What caused my Pluot tree to die?", or "Why did my Pluot tree die?" I appreciated your photos and captions too. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

nguy: The watering thing isn't a cutoff point. I've got 80 varieties that ripen over 7 months in a 1700 sq ft greenhouse. Many are several varieties per tree some early some late. So it's a season long thing. If you have shallow soil you might need to water everyday via drip. On a deep soil you might water deeply every 7-21 days. A tree watered every day can still be short water if you are applying 75% of potential use. Watering heavily every 14 days instead of every 7 days still leaves the tree short on water. A tree can adjust very well to a 75% water level if it comes on slowly and is sustained over a long period. You won't be able to tell by looking at the tree except that growth may slow or stop. My stone fruit needs to keep growing at a slow rate or the stress is to severe. Dropping leaves is way too severe. Outdoors in Austin heat you would need to water heavily and often to avoid all water stress. So try to strike a middle ground and you will be rewarded with sweet flavorful fruit. BTW, I am getting three new pluot straight from Dave Wilson Nursery. Flavor Royale which is earlier, more productive, and sweeter than Flavor Supreme, the later already a super fruit. Crimson Royale a mid season pluot that is supposed to be the sweetest pluot ever released and highly flavorful. Honey Punch is pretty late, after King and Grenade, big firm dark and meaty, just my kind of pluot. You can check the descriptions on DWN website. The deal is that DWN is wholesale only. So I have to buy 10 trees of each when I only want two. But these may never be released retail. And if they are 5-10 years from now. If you be interested I'll have extra trees.

My plan is to put the fk where the pit is and the grenade on left side of patio....unless I put the Sr there...need to find another spit for grenade