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What fertilizer should I use?

11 years ago

Hi guys,

I got my soil testing done but the company didn't really give me any fertilizer recommendations. I have a lime truck coming in this week with 1 3/4 tons per acre.

I attached the results as a picture. Can you suggest a fertilizer for me? also, how long before seeding should I do it? I am seeding with a warm season grass mix.

Comments (3)

andy10917
11 years ago
I don't do soil test interpretations on this site any more, but I'll give you a quick warning: the Clemson test is aimed at agriculture, and you should never apply 74 lbs/K of Lime on the surface of your lawn at once. Those values are for plowing it into the soil ("incorporating it"). The maximum to surface-apply at once is 50 lbs/K for standard dolomitic lime.
tiemco
11 years ago
In addition to what Andy said, the lime you should be using is Calcitic, which is used at a much lower rate than Dolomitic. Dolomitic is cheaper and usually what you find at most store, and what most landscapers use. Dolomitic will raise soil pH, but it will take longer than calcitic and it will cause a soil imbalance, which will give you a very tight soil.
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I haven't grown in soil less mix. Fertilizer hasn't been an issue and the trees have grown well. Fruit trees especially in pots just need enough fertilizer to grow adequate leaves. I've had Zn deficiency on pluot trees grown in the ground but none on any kind of trees in pots. This year I do have some Fe deficiency on a few potted trees mostly apricot. But I think that's from cold wet soil and pH. You don't want a potted tree growing too big and they won't just because of the small root volume. But I don't see any need to fertilize every other watering, once a month at most. If the tree doesn't develop adequate leaves, fertilize more. Perhaps in a mix without soil more fertilizer would be needed. But the trees growth is your best guide.
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Depends, do you like to 'make your own' or would you rather purchase a bag of premixed stuff that has the NPK numbers on the front? Many folks simply use compost and/or composted manure worked into the soil at prep time and then maybe more topdressed during the growing season. High protein grains like soybean meal will supply all the nitrogen plants need for green growth and many use it for fertilizing their lawns. There are rock powders which can supply other nutrients as well, but are very slow release. There are fish and seeweed products that you dilute in water and many use these to some degree. If you will garden organically I encourage you to never again throw away any food scraps (other than meat and dairy which can attract unwanted visitors), but instead go put in in the garden growing areas to add fertility. Ultimately use what you wish, but it is very possible to get most soils to the point where nothing is required for fertilizer beyond the organic matter/compost treatments. A pure or mostly sand soil may be the exception. I don't know that I would suggest it for the first year or two, it can take awhile before the soil improves to that point, but the more organic material you introduce, the faster the process takes place.
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Others will give you the plant science behind not fertilizing new plants, especially "woodies" like shrubs and trees. Just leave them alone so their roots can get established. Early fert. will encourage top growth but not necessarily root growth. The roots are what plants grow first and a healthy root system will sustain a plant well in adverse conditions such as "normal" heat waves and below average winter temperatures. Water sensibly and well the first season: about an inch a week unless there's already been a good rain. Many more plants die from overwatering, not underwatering. Constant irrigation has serious drawbacks for plant health. Back to your plan which is a recipe for unhealthy plants. Since you mention a plan that says shrubs and perennials in the same sentence I wonder if you are a fairly new gardener. You will learn to grow healthy beautiful plants by reading some good basic gardening books and getting information from your Extension Service. Let's start with the basics: have you had your soil tested? Do you know not to amend soil when you plant trees and shrubs? Do you know how much sun and shade your garden gets at different times of the day.? Please don't rely on E-How and random blogs with pretty pictures. There's a wealth of misinformation on the internet. Forgive me if I completely misjudged your level of gardening experience. There are wonderful people here who will bend over backwards to help someone be a better gardener. I hope you get to know them.
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dchall_san_antonio
11 years ago
Yes, call the lime truck and tell them you don't need them any more.

In addition to what andy and tiemco said, don't fertilize with anything until you have mowed the grass at least two times. Preferably do not fertilize until Memorial Day. If you fertilize too early you will waste the fertilizer and turn a fast growing lawn into a hypergrowth lawn.

If you want a much better, lawn oriented, soil test (too bad you did not ask first), spend another $20 and send a sample to Logan Labs in Ohio. But first, if you don't think that is a good use of your lawn hobby money, consider how much Andy already saved you. Look on the Internet for Andy's handle, Logan Labs, soil test, and morpheuspa. Those search terms will direct you to a forum where you get a very serious, free analysis of a Logan Labs soil test. The Logan Labs test will tell you about the micronutrients your soil needs as well as more specific information about the NPK it needs. That forum will also tell you where to order the micronutrients your lawn needs to tune it up.

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