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rosewolfie

Advice for my little pink polka dot plant?

RoseWolfie
11 years ago

I rescued this a few months back from a Lowes Clearance rack for 29 cents. It was almost completely dead. I watered it and leaves came back and grew. Now that it is no longer on the verge of death, what should I do with it?

{{gwi:110445}}

{{gwi:110446}}

I know it is a little leggy, this was before I rescued it. There are 2 pics.

Comments (26)

  • greenlarry
    11 years ago

    Repot into better less soggy soil and put in a bright spot. I would trim those long stems by half and use the snips as cuttings.

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  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but the plant I see pictured is still on the verge of death. Don't like disagreeing with Al, but I would also trim the 2 longest pieces off and stick them in the soil next to mama. This plant has a tough time going from tall, flowering mode to new basal growth, which is what is attractive. Trimming off the tall parts seems to be the only thing which really encourages the new growth (along with enough light.) Otherwise, the tall parts just get taller, more floppy, more naked stem length. The cuttings would give you a measure of insurance also because the pieces propagate so easily, more readily than rotted roots can heal.

    It really needs a few hours of direct sun every day, preferably morning or evening, not mid-day. Is there somewhere outside to put your plant? Where you are, it should be ok outside for most of the winter, bringing it in on the colder nights if you think it might frost. Or you could put it in the ground, where the roots should recover much more easily as long as there's some dirt where you are and not just sand, hardy to 9a.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    T - I weighed that option and quickly decided it wouldn't be prudent. Here's my reasoning: The likelihood of a cutting striking (rooting) is largely determined by the health and vitality level of the plant from which the cutting is taken. A cutting from this plant has an extremely low probability of rooting - probably less than 5%. Additionally, in order for a bare stem to back-bud, it takes a reserve of energy that has to come from SOMEWHERE. Obviously, this plant is circling the drain and depending on current photosynthate for its day to day existence. The question I asked myself is: Is it prudent to cut the plant back when there is little hope of the cutting surviving and knowing you would be reducing the plant's ability to make food and fuel new growth by at least 75%? The answer I came up with was an unequivocal 'NO'.

    I think the immediate focus should be on utilizing everything the plant has to offer in order to save it. Trying to manipulate it into back-budding by removing most of it's foliage when it's dying, in my estimation, significantly increases the likelihood of the plant's demise.

    If I was really intent on saving this plant, it would go into a 10 gallon aquarium partially covered by glass or Plexiglas, with a 24" 2-bulb fluorescent light almost touching the glass. That would be after I inspected the roots, flushed the soil, set the root/soil mass on newspaper to dry down and returned it to its pot.

    'Over-working' a plant takes many forms, but basically it involves doing things to a plant it's energy level can't support. Budding bonsai artists often trim their plant to death by reducing their foliage mass so much/often the plant hasn't the energy to keep its systems orderly. This plant is already well beyond the point where little more than a wayward glance might be all that's required to send it to that big compost pile in the sky, which is why repotting and any pruning should be avoided if at all possible - at least until the plant regains some vitality and a little extra energy it can fall back on. If I did anything at all in the way of pruning, the only thing I would consider doing is pinching the very end of the two long stems, removing as little photosynthesizing mass as possible.

    Al

  • goren
    11 years ago

    Thats an awful lot of sick plant sitting in, what appears to be, a lot of soil in a pot too big for it which then holds an awful lot of water--which the small plant is forced to drink from, and suffers because of it.

    I don't like the idea of waiting for its death knell to repot--better to fix the problem, then try for the cure.

    A smaller pot that drains well and is watered only when the plant can use it--and it will use a lot less now that the winter solstace is almost upon us. If you can get it back on its feet and hang on til the sun returns in February, it might do better in spring.
    The wilting leaves should be looked at...trimmed or removed...they give the first sign of overwatering.
    Don't try to fertilize the plant into health--that's a quick way to killing it---wait til the plant can use the food --when its growing.
    It looks like it could use a much better sun exposure--as the days grow shorter--it can be placed closer to the window. To aid in that--raise the plant up--put it on a table or pedestal or shelf near your best west/south facing window.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    I think the fact that this plant barely clings to life precludes even imagining that it might survive a repot. It just ain't gonna happen. There is no one that wants to see the plant in an appropriate soil that drains lightning fast more than me - but I wouldn't want a soil change for the plant now.

    The problem is low light and over-watering (possibly over-fertilizing). Improving low light speaks for itself, and the over-watering/fertilizing can be fixed temporarily, WITHOUT having to put the plant through the stress of a repot that's almost certain to kill it. I agree with the goals, but disagree strongly with the timing.

    Also, nothing green should be removed from this plant. Plants harvest mobile nutrients and various biocompounds from leaves before they shed them, so some of that could be ongoing, and anything green still has the potential to make food. This plant is starving because the roots cannot move water and nutrients to the foliage so the plant can make its food. Removing anything with the potential to carry on photosynthesis at this time is something the plant simply can't afford.

    Emergency out-of-season repots should be reserved for plants that are still in good enough health to recover. Those plants that exhibit little chance of surviving the repot should be spared the additional stress, lest that added burden be the straw that broke the camel's back. If the plant has no significant value to the grower, then go ahead & toss the dice; but the odds are overwhelmingly against the plant surviving a repot. If the goal is to ENSURE the plant's viability, a less reckless approach is the better choice - especially in light of the fact it's someone else's plant.

    Al

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    That makes prefect sense, Al, but it just doesn't mesh with my experience, which is that plants that look this bad rarely recover while cuttings are usually a successful way to save at least part of it and start over when dealing with a plant that roots as readily as this one.

    Above I said "in the soil next to mama" out of habit, but that soil looks toxic, I would put them in another pot.

    These stems look like they're rotting near the soil line. Can air/sunlight heal that? (Honestly asking what you think, not snark.)

    Nobody disagrees about this plant needing more light.

  • greenlarry
    11 years ago

    I'm with purple-trim and plant the trimmings. Ive had this plant, its pretty tough. But as it is it looks to be on the way out and you may lose it either way.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    I don't think there is too much that separates us. I look at the o/a picture with viability of the entire organism as my focus, contending that the plant is circling the drain, and any 'green' that is removed from it increases the chances it will exit by way of the maelstrom; therefore, if you want to save the plant, it's better to not reduce the odds of that happening by eliminating a large % of its food-making ability by separating the cuttings that have most of the plant's foliage.

    If the grower is willing to accept the increased risk of losing the plant as a consequence of separating the cuttings, we're good. I think it's difficult to object to my thinking that even a little added adversity is something the plant can't be expected to tolerate, since we agree "that plants that look this bad rarely recover". If you want the plant to survive, it needs to have its best shot.

    Both vigor and vitality play a part in a propagule's likelihood of striking. The species roots easily because it is genetically vigorous. Propagules of this particular plant are extremely unlikely to root, because they lack vitality almost entirely. I can say that because we both agree the plant's on the verge of converting to compost, and vitality of the parent material is one of, if not THE most essential elements in determining whether attempt at rooting of the propagule ends in success or failure.

    "These stems look like they're rotting near the soil line. Can air/sunlight heal that?" Yes and no - it depends on what you mean by "heal". Technically, healing is a restorative process, during which damaged or infected cells would be repaired or replaced in their same spatial positions, but all plants are incapable of that type of 'healing' because they are generating organisms, not regenerating organisms, like animals. In this case, it's not even important if I think the plant can or can't be turned around via improved cultural conditions, because if you want to save the plant, you put your eggs in the 'plant basket'. If you want to save the genetic material (cutting) and aren't attached to the parent material, you're just transferring eggs from one basket to another, and the fewer eggs there are in any one basket, the less likely is success.

    Too, if in fact the stems ARE rotting at the soil line, it additionally and significantly decreases any cutting's chances of striking because it would mean the plumbing (vasculature) of the cutting would already be compromised. It's an interesting discussion.

    Al

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    Well, you do seem to know what I'm trying to say because you said it better than I did. I will concede that the cuttings I've taken were from really ugly, scraggly plants, but they didn't have any rot, AFAIK.

    Speaking about the tallest part to the left in the top pic. The color is good, leaves don't look abnormal. I would have almost total confidence of that piece taking root if given some sun, not allowed to swim or dry out, cutting 2 nodes below the lowest leaf, remove lowest really small leaf, bury to include that node (3 nodes total submerged.)

    Rose, you definitely can say you've made an informed decision whatever you choose, a bulk of info here and support either way from everyone. Smiles!

    Get better, Steve! (My honey says all house plants are named Steve.)

  • RoseWolfie
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Well to clear some things up. No there was no standing water in the plate, I just keep it in that bowl cause it has a lot of drainage holes and keeps it from making a mess. I watered it daily, not much. It was bone dry originally, all leaves drooping, and completely root bound. I replanted it in that pot, watered it lightly, and brought it back from death. It always had no leaves at the bottom. But it has been quite a while and only had one flower and a few new leaves.

    Now when I took these pics it was after a recent watering, which was only a few spoonfuls. So it appears wetter then it is. So far many seem to want me to dry it out, so I am, less waterings now. I cut 2 of the stems for trimmings, both died the next day despite trying to do my best with them. The main plant still lives.

    I am planning to put it out for more sun, just its been getting a little cold at night and I worry.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    You should flush the soil thoroughly, in case the plant is reacting poorly to a high level of soluble salts in the soil. There's no point in putting the plant outdoors when temps are lower than about 55*, and if you DO move the plant outdoors when temps are favorable, be sure it's in the shade.

    If you want directions on how to flush the soil and avoid having the soil stay soggy for an extended period, let me know. I've helped a lot of people bring plants like yours back from the brink on the forum, so there's a pretty standardized procedure that works well. Plus, once I have your ear, I'm pretty sure I can offer some reading, some of which you can use as a guide, and some of which is a critical key to being able to get as much as possible out of your plants.

    Best luck.

    Al

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    Rose, so sorry to hear the pieces you cut didn't do well.
    Still sending good vibes to the mama plant!

  • rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
    11 years ago

    It's time to give that plant a proper send-off!

    Here is a link that might be useful: New Orleans style

  • pirate_girl
    11 years ago

    Rhizo,

    (I'm back in the office, I joke that I just came in for the light & the heat.)

    That's too funny, sorry to the OP, but I too think that plant is a goner. Also, I hate to see people struggling so, w/ a plant that's pretty well at death's door.

    Normally, I'd say pls,. just toss it & get another one, but I'd add a caution that it's very difficult to give this particular plant enough light indoors for it to do well. Almost every single attempt I've seen has failed, sorry.

  • sandy0225
    11 years ago

    If you put that polka dot plant in a sunny window, water it as needed, in other words, don't water it until it is dry, and fertilize it about once a month, it will grow back for you. When its a little fuller with more leaves, cut back the straggly parts. It won't look real good until the days start getting longer, it will try to bloom and generally get pretty straggly looking until the days start getting longer again, that's just what they do. After it goes through its short day,blooming, stage, that is the time to cut it back. They are very tough plants and are hard to kill unless you put them in the dark and overwater them. If you rescued it from lowes and you haven't over fertilized it yourself, then chances are its pretty starved out because they don't fertilize them at all there. Use miracle grow type or whatever you use at half strength.

  • mycoupons_x3
    7 years ago

    I didn't read all of the comments above...but I did read a few. I am not a plant expert but the polka dot plant was one of the first plants I started my collection with a year ago...it is also the pickiest I've had yet!! but a year later it's still hanging on. at first I nearly killed it by what I initially thought was over watering.... but honestly I propagated my near dead plant and the cuttings lived better and brighter in my little vase of water then I have gotten them to live in soil yet.. my mother in law still (5months later) has her cuttings that I gave her in a cup of water and they are thriving better then the ones I later decided to plant in soil. it's still alive but not as bright and barely any dots or new growth.. I understand this post is years old but I'm hoping to help the next person that comes along with polkadot plant issues. I ended up propagating regardless of what I found on the Internet saying not to Cuz my little plant was a goner and what could it hurt??! I successfully got 2 new plants out of the situation but still trying to figure out where I'm going wrong with soil... I've tried 3 different kinds of soil I've tried fertilizing and not fertilizing, I've changed my watering habits and lighting I can't tell you how many times...it just won't thrive in soil!! this picture is of its current conditions I just moved it to my front window today hoping the 2-3 hours of evening light will help it out. if this doesn't work I'm clipping the stems close to the bottom and putting back in a vase of water to live until I have another great plan for it.

  • goldstar135
    7 years ago

    Hypoestes phyllostachya can be a tricky plant indoors, but I have a friend who is doing a phenomenal job with growing hers indoors. I'm sure yours could also thrive indoors as well, once it's set on the right path. They do look amazing and even cute when they're thriving :p

    " I've tried 3 different kinds of soil I've tried fertilizing and not fertilizing, I've changed my watering habits and lighting I can't tell you how many times..

    Would you mind telling us what types of soil you've tried? What watering habits have you experimented with and what lighting?

    "I just moved it to my front window today hoping the 2-3 hours of evening light will help it out."

    What direction does your front window face?

    ~~

    From what I've seen online and what my friend has tried with her plants, I believe that they need the brightest light possible indoors-a south or west facing window would work perfectly. She repotted hers in Miracle Gro potting mix blended 50/50 with perlite. They seem to do pretty well in that mix. She also uses MG 24-8-16 fertilizer (the blue powder).

    For watering-

    Don't water on a set schedule, e.g "Once a week on Saturday". Water when the plant needs it.

    There's many different ways to figure out when plants need water. One popular method is the wooden dowel method-take a wooden chopstick/dowel/skewer, stick it all the way down into the soil, and wait for about ten minutes. After ten minutes, pull it out. If the dowel is dirty/dark colored/obviously wet, withhold watering. If it is clean/light colored/obviously dry, water.

    I would also flush the soil with every watering-this prevents salt buildups in the soil.


    Good luck! All the best for your polka dot plant! :)

    As a side note-

    I would consider removing the pebbles from the soil surface-they can keep moisture from evaporating from the soil surface, keeping the soil too moist. They could also promote fungal growth.

  • krisit sure
    6 years ago

    I too am trying to save a Lowe's plant (.10 - can't beat it). Any suggestions?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Your question is very broad, so it can only be answered by covering all the basis, like writing a book, or with a very broad reply. Keep in mind that my reply is designed to make you consider growing from a perspective you might not have considered before, and to move you to start asking questions.

    I suggest you don't do anything that requires your plant to operate near, at, or beyond the limitations it's been genetically programmed to tolerate. When you have learned to do that, and it isn't that difficult, there will be very few plants you aren't able to maintain in excellent health.

    All plants are genetically programmed with the potential to be beautiful specimens. It's only what WE do while plants are under our care that prevents t hem from realizing that potential.

    This should be helpful.


    Al

  • tanithrawlins
    6 years ago

    I need advice about my polka dot plant, I bought it about 2 weeks ago and it looks like its dying. Any advice ?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Your question is very broad ........ information provided - sparse, so it can only be answered by covering all the basis, like writing a book, or with a very broad reply. Keep in mind that my reply is designed to make you consider growing from a perspective you might not have considered before, and to move you to start asking questions.

    I suggest you don't do anything that requires your plant to operate near, at, or beyond the limitations it's been genetically programmed to tolerate. When you have learned to do that, and it isn't that difficult, there will be very few plants you aren't able to maintain in excellent health.

    All plants are genetically programmed with the potential to be
    beautiful specimens. It's only what WE do while plants are under our care that prevents t hem from realizing that potential.

    This should be helpful.

    BTW - does your pot have a drainage hole? My guess is, you have something in addition to potential over-watering going on. Have you fertilized? How about a little info?

    Al

  • tanithrawlins
    6 years ago

    I actually have a huge perspective about growing plants. Plants are my life, there's nothing beter than planting plants.


    My pot has a drainage hole, I water it everytime the soil is dry. I have it in my room, next to my bed. Do these plants need sunlight, as I know they are house plants ? My soil is exellent , I just can't figure out what's wrong with it.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    The link I left would make a very good point from which to start trying to figure it out. Did you read it?

  • Kristine 10a/10b
    5 years ago

    Reviving this thread as I also need some advice on my ailing polka dot plant (pics below). I don't have before pics, but my little polka dot plant was thriving - I got it last month and though it was already a healthy plant, it perked up considerably and got bigger.

    This weekend, I noticed that the roots were significantly growing out through the holes in the plastic pot it came in from the nursery. I repotted it yesterday into tapla's gritty mix (@tapla - I've been reading these forums quite a bit since starting up my house plant collection early this year and your posts have been so informative!).

    Today, it looks very sad and droopy and the leaves feel very delicate and soft, which was not the case yesterday prior to the repot. I'm new to plants generally so this is the first time I've repotted a plant, but this is what I did for the repot:

    - Took as much soil off as possible with my hands and then tried to wash off the rest of the soil so the roots were mostly bare/clean

    - Put it into a slightly bigger planter than the plastic nursery planter it came in - the new planter has a drainage hole

    - I watered the new mix after I put the plant in, which I'm now thinking I shouldn't have done

    I'm not sure what exactly to do now. It's located in the same spot it was before when it was doing well so is getting the same amount of light and temperature. I don't know if it needs a few days to adjust as I've noticed that this plant reacts pretty quickly to changes. For example, prior to the repot, it would perk up considerably after being watered even though it wasn't at all droopy prior to being watered.

    Any suggestions on what to do? Did I do something incorrect during the repot? Did I overwater it and it just needs some time to dry out? Is my new pot too big? Is the gritty mix not the right mix for this plant? Does it just need time to adjust? Did I need to arrange the roots a certain way in the new planter? (Sorry, so many questions running through my head!)


  • Sage TX 9a
    5 years ago

    Not an expert, but maybe some will chime in. Hypoestes is a true tropical, and so I think your doubts about the gritty mix are correct. In the wild they grow in a mix of rotting bark and leaf litter, so you're wanting a fast draining and high organic mix. Pretty sure Gritty has too much inorganic material to suit.

    Also, there's transplant shock. Going from one potting medium to a totally different potting medium will make a plant freak out. It takes a couple of weeks for a plant to settle into its new situation...so if you move it to 5-1-1 or 1-1-1, it's still going to be *several* days before the hypoestes fully recovers. Good luck!