Great! I'm glad it might be useful. I also have it set up with the data presented "backward" by entering the desired date of harvest so the date of planting is calculated. Both calculations are set up as a vertical presentation or a horizontal presentation. Those formats would need to be emailed to you unless you can figure out how to do it yourself!

At approximately 90,000 square miles, the UK is a tad bit easier to cover than the 3.8 million square miles that comprise the US :-)) And given the geographical and climate difference across even the continental US, a single resource is going to be woefully lacking in any sort of detail unless it was encyclopedic in scope. Again, sources here tend to be in flux most of the time with even large wholesale growers going in and out of bankruptcy, not to mention the decline of independent garden centers overall. It's worth it to accumulate a personal resource listing of smaller, even specialty nurseries that sell online (or by mail order) and that address the type of plants you desire. Specific forums often compile these lists from their regular posters (I know of several - Conifers, Clematis, Hosta, Lilies, etc.) or you can inquire there for input. Or check with your regional forum for similar input from locals - there are a number of great specialty nurseries that carry uncommon plants in my own geographical area that are certainly not widely known across the country.

turtleman49 after my last post I laid in bed thinking about just how mean some of my posts have been. No cussing or name calling but nothing anyone would call friendly. Not slanderous as I think any reasonable person given the same information would have jumped to the same conclusion. However I don't consider jumping to conclusions to be a good thing. People do things that may look contradictory on the surface which often are not. I was prepared to give a full and complete apology this morning. Then I read your new post and I'm torn. Part of me feels bad for how I have acted. Another part of me wants to address some of the things you have said. First I would like to reiterate my previous apology to you. I am sorry for ever saying anything derogatory to anyone about what I thought about your business without first asking you about it in private. Outside of this forum I have spoken to two people about your orders from DWN. Both were people who I had, had previous emails with and felt like I was giving them information that would save them money. That still does not make it right or excuse my behavior and for that I'm sorry. I hope you will find it in your heart to forgive me. Back on topic. turtleman49 Desert King is one of my favorite figs. As quoted; Yes, the breba crop (First Crop) of Desert King is one of my favorite figs. They are sweet and have an almost creamy texture and the seeds crunch in your mouth. The tree is however one of my least liked because of the mess. The second crop is a big mess. There are figs of equal quality that produce two crops and thus no mess. Having to pick up all the withered and rotten fruit is not fun. Desert King is supposed to produce two crops and it does. It's just that one will not ripen here and goes to waste. As for sales it only makes sense you would stock what sells. The big box stores stock all kinds of stone fruit trees that will not fruit here most years. It's what people want to buy so they stock them. RSI Growers is more thoughtful than most nurseries in stocking trees that will actually fruit here. Desert King only producing one of two crops being the one exception but an understandable one. As for your last two posts. I really would love to say something. It appears to be alright with you or you would not have posted what you did. It also appears to be ok with tracydr as she has not complained so I will answer. I am always looking for trees and I have been checking DWN for trees sold to nurseries in my state each season for years. It is true that you sell some varieties DWN does not sell. Citrus would be a prime example. However I have seen purchased in past orders most of the varieties sold on your site. Also contrary to your assertion I do see Peaches in your last order that are listed for sale on your site. From what you have said I can only assume you buy new trees for grafting each year and then sell trees you grafted last year on your site. Not the way I would do it as I would use a few of my own trees to make more grafts before I would buy more trees of the same cultivars. But hey, its your business and your money, not mine. As for number of trees I have never been to your place of business. Your site shows how many trees are in stock of each variety. I have never seen large numbers of any one variety on your site. However I can understand having lots and lots of trees and only having a few of each mature enough for sale or only listing a few of each for sale. From all I have heard your trees are larger and nicer than most fruit trees sold at most of our local nurseries. I can certainly see how that creates value. I like large trees as much as anyone and have been willing to pay for it. I can also see added value to using preferred root stocks for Arizona. With no information about root stocks in the tree descriptions at your site I had no way of knowing you were using root stocks that offered more value than those sold by DWN or local retailers. Root stocks are important and I always want to know what root stock is on any tree I purchase. You might want to add the root stock to your tree descriptions. For many it could be key to getting a sale. Lastly I have to hand it to you. For the size of trees you sell. It must take at least 2-4 years to grow out your pomegranate trees from cuttings and at least 2-3 years to grow out your figs from cuttings. I assume they are both on their own roots though as they are not commonly grafted. P.S. I'm not a young man. In my life I have seen some crazy situations where things were misconstrued and misunderstandings destroyed families and friendships. Only to find out years later there were true and totally logical explanations for everything and have everyone sorry for what they had said and how they had acted. Because of this I thought I would behave better and I did not. It is out of character for me. Please excuse me while I crawl under a rock for a few days. Perhaps when I come out the sun will be shining again.

I sow pumpkin seeds by hand because I don't space them very close together. How close you can space them depends on the variety and the vine's ultimate size, how fertile your soil is, how much moisture you have, etc. I actually get away with planting Seminole more closely than other varieties because I let them climb the garden fence, which is 8' tall. For me, Seminole is an end-of-the-season space filler that I often plant at mid-summer as other crops are coming out, so the spacing depends on what space is available. One Seminole pumpkin, for example, can put out vines that run 15-30' in all directions when there is fairly fertile soil and adequate moisture available. If you plant too many pumpkins they will climb all over each other and every other plant you are growing, so take it easy with the pumpkin spacing. You can crowd some plants and get away with it (I plant tomato plants closer than I should in order to get huge harvests all at one time for a very intense/heavy canning period of 1-2 months, for example) but with rampant vining plants, too many plants in too small of a space can backfire on you by burying everything else you're growing underneath their foliage. Unless I am planting pumpkins to trellis up a fence (my Seminoles usually climb the fence and then, if I have planted them near a fence line that has trees beyond it, they'll climb the trees), I space them 6-8' apart. If I am letting them climb the fence I space them as closely as 1' apart along the fence, but that is because their growth will be mostly vertical, and when the vines try to head off in multiple directions on the ground, I train them to climb the fence. You cannot grow big huge pumpkin varieties on fences or trellises, but Seminole grows just fine that way. With varieties that produce larger pumpkins, the vines have got to have enough ground and water to supply the rapidly enlarging vines and pumpkins with adequate nutrients and water. Otherwise, you'll end up with a lot of vines but with a poor harvest because all of them are fighting each other for the available nutrients and moisture. A pumpkin variety like Small Sugar Pumpkin can produce well, as Seminole does, with somewhat closer spacing but a pumpkin variety that produces larger pumpkins needs larger spacing. Read the variety description for whatever variety you're going to grow and base your spacing on what is recommended for that variety. If you plant too many vines too close together, poor air flow also can aid in the development of foliar diseases that can kill your plants before you get a single pumpkin. You have to think about your spacing in terms of what gives you a healthy, happy plant and not in terms of what will give you the most pumpkins. Planting too many plants too close together will backfire and will give you a poor harvest, especially here with our heat and humidity but often low rainfall in the summer months. Pumpkin vines (and all vining winter squash varieties) need a lot of water to maintain the rapid growth of the large leaves. That water does not necessarily fall from the skies here in July and August at a high enough rate for the pumpkins/winter squash to get the kind of growth they need, so be prepared to irrigate. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are both because they put the moisture in the ground for the plant roots and not up on the foliage where fungal diseases then will grow. In 2011, which was a painfully hot and dry year, I planted Seminole pumpkins in two different areas, where they were interplanted with sweet corn. With very little rainfall (about 12" total from January through late August), the plants had to fight for survival. I watered them as well as I could, but the extreme heat (high temps above 100 for about 90 days and often above 110 for a shockingly long period of time in July and August) kept their growth limited. When rainfall returned near the end of August and we then had good autumn rainfall in Sept and Oct, the vines took over about 1000 square feet of space and produced a very bountiful harvest just before frost. I think I had 4 to 6 Seminole plants that survived the drought and heat long enough to fill up that 1000 s.f. area. They climbed their trellis, they climbed all the corn plants, they climbed the fence, they ran out into the dry pastures of dead or dormant grasses beyond the fence, they filled up the dry retention pond bottom, they climbed about 100 tomato cages whose plants had long since perished in the drought. Get the picture? Those plants were spaced 8' apart that year. In a dry year, I space them further apart so they don't have to fight each other as much for moisture. I watered very heavily in June, July and August just to keep them alive. It was so hot for most of the summer that a person driving by and looking at the stunted plants likely would have thought I wasn't watering them at all, but I was watering very heavily about 3 times a week. The abnormal heat was just sucking all the moisture out of the ground and the plants struggled to survive. If you plant too many of a vigorously vining C. moschata type, it will bury everything underneath it on its rush to world domination when it has adequate moisture, but some years it is very hard to give them adequate moisture. With any variety that is not C . moschata, in our climate that sort of crazy, rampant growth is rare because usually the squash vine borers kill it before it can get big enough to spread out and really grow (or produce a single pumpkin). However, I grew many varieties of C. pepo and C. maxima for 6 or 7 years before the squash vine borers discovered we had moved here and planted a garden. It was great while it lasted, but once the SVBs found us, I switched mostly to C moschatas. Every now and then I'll grow green-striped cushaw, which has some tolerance of SVBs, or one of the warted pumpkins like Knucklehead, but I have to fight the SVBs hard just to get a pumpkin or two from Knucklehead. So, if it sounds like I am encouraging you to use wider spacing, I am. Planting too many of these monster pumpkin vines will give you fewer, smaller pumpkins, not more of them. If you have too many pumpkins on too many vines fighting for too little moisture, you run the risk of losing the whole crop unless you have an endless supply of water. It is always better to start small with just a couple of pumpkin vines, and see how that goes your first year or two. Once you learn how much space they need to grow and produce, then in another year you can plant more. Planting too many in your first attempt at growing them almost always ends in disappointment. I had been gardening for 15 years as an adult (and even longer as a child in a gardening family) before I ever planted a single pumpkin plant in my own garden because my city garden before we moved here was too shady for them and too small. Because I was a very experienced gardener, I understood what kind of spacing to use. I had grown some of the mini-pumpkins, like Jack-B-Little, back in Fort Worth, but those are tiny pumpkins that are easy to trellis. I am worried you're going to plant way too many plants and ruin your own chance of getting a nice harvest.