nobueno, I have had no trouble with hardiness of Japanese plums here in Denver. The issue is not hardiness but bloom time; we usually get frosts that kill the blooms. I have Elephant Heart and Satsuma and my neighbor has Santa Rosa. We have had good crops the last few years. The European plums, especially my Shropshire Damson, bloom later and therefore avoid the frosts. I would have to say that it sounds like you are wanting a Santa Rosa. You will need a pollinator for it though. A Japanese hybrid would work well. But you should be prepared in case of frost at bloom time.

Hi! I live in US6, SWPA. I grow perennially, easily: SUN: oregano, thyme, marshmallow, elecampagne, roses of all sorts, lavenders, st. johnswort, joe pye, yarrows, lily of the valley, marjoram, strawberries, currants, orange butterfly weed, mints of all sorts, valerian, schizandra, chaste tree, sorrel, mullein, violets, honeysuckles, burdocks, dandelions, docks, plantains, horseradish, tansy, rue, poke, coneflower, bergamot, feverfew & the ever ubiquitous Japanese knotweed... SHADE: witch hazel, lenten roses, sweet woodruff, lungwort, foxgloves, lady's mantel, black & blue cohoshes & locals including canadian ginger, mayapple & trilium (both popping up now). Annually, in raised beds or patio pots I grow calendula, sages, rosemary, tarragon, chia, gotu kola, geraniums... I could not get rid of the skullcap--had it for years-- full sun--until I overseeded heavily with larkspur & I think that just finally shaded it out. Things that in the southern US would require afternoon shade don't up here unless it's been a long, dry stretch. My soil runs the gamut from boggy to retaining wall clay; my light full shade to full sun. I do this on a standard city-sized lot--25 x 100', with an E-W exposure & an additional 4' x 25' retaining wall beside the driveway on the other side of the house & still have enough grass to play a game--albeit confined--of guerrilla bocci. My suggestion to anyone who wants to set up an herb garden is to decide what you want & why you want it, then network with herbalists & other gardeners & experiment with your land & soil types & go to every garden club plant sale or swap you can find-- people grow the most amazing things.... Even tho' I come from a long line of sustainable city & country gardeners I read books, consult with neighbors, call the cooperative extension for the most simple-assed questions imaginable. And, while some things in my garden have been passed down, literally, through generations & carted from house to house with us-- and while I have spent a considerable amount of money over a considerable number of years on plants-- the majority of my existing, long-term plantings have come from local sources: the aforementioned garden club sales, friendly neighbors and-- I am not ashamed to admit, since my neighborhood has experienced somewhat of an urban decline over the past few decades-- a fair amount of abandoned property plant-poachings & rose rescues. Every year this time of year I stare at different bits of green popping up and go, "What the h*ll is that?" & tell myself to be patient because in another few days I'll either remember what I put there or somebody will have unwittingly stepped on it or possibly eaten it. Last year Neighbor Joe got a new roof & fixed his gutters & the sweet woodruff under his foundation-grown mulberry all but dried up, though it's going strong about 10' away. This year some of the strawberries also migrated about 15 feet completely around a couple of shrubs towards the north-- they'll probably make Canada in another couple hundred years... & I have no idea where the st. johnswort will show up, but it always does. So trust the garden, as well, to tell you what it needs. And enjoy the adventure.

"I also like Spartan,that I'd put in the mostly sweet category. Brady" In my research this is the best tasting NHB early season variety. I would like this one to extend my season. In my research for best plants for zone 6a. I concentrated on good taste, productivity, ornamental value, and adaptability to my area, not really sweetness. I decided on Toro, Liberty, and Chandler. Like all experienced growers will tell you, try and obtain plants that grow well in your area. so that was my major concern. NHB might not do well in pots. They grow to be huge plants. I would think they would not do well in pots. Also NHB might not do well in hot areas. Fruitnut describes some SHB as mushy. I can say I would never describe a NHB as mushy, When ripe they have some firmness, slightly less than a strawberry.Mushy only when over ripe. If grown in warm zones though, I would think you would not get good fruit as they would be out of their element, Again not meant to grow in warm zones, so results could be way different. Darrow is one that might do well in southern zones. Zone rating 6-7. I really have little experience with many cultivars. I do like what I grow, and I'm sure O'Neil, and Blue ray are also fine plants as mentioned. Blue crop is another decent plant that kept popping up as decent in my research. But research is all I have to go on. Again I would like to add Spartan as it sounds like a really decent early cultivar. And Pink Lemonade, just because it is so different. But I have no more room. I grow too many other berry plants and I like them a lot. All space is taken at this point.

Hi Ruth :-) Yes, my Little Honey has spent her entire life in a container! It is a pretty good sized one (glazed ceramic) maybe 20" across and around 18" deep. This year the plant is so large, I pruned it back so it wasn't quite so floppy over the side - it's about 5' across and 3' tall. In my climate she is able to winter outside (in the pot) without issue but growing in a container is a great way to enjoy this plant in colder climates, as you can just move it to provide winter protection. As oakleafs go, this is not a heavy bloomer.....just the odd flower head every now and again. I grow it primarily for the foliage effect, which is stunning.