Dark Spots On Pothos' Leaves...What's Wrong? Please Help!
uniquelydivine
11 years ago
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pirate_girl
11 years agopirate_girl
11 years agoRelated Discussions
My cactus has brown spots on leaves. What do I do?
Comments (4)You have a jade, aka, crassula ovata. It is in desparate need of light. Was this where it was when you moved in? If so, do you have a balcony on which you could slowly acclamate it when the outside temps are above 55 or so consistently. If you just moved it to this spot and it is better-lit than where it was, these could be sunburn marks. Typically sunburn marks are more uniform in shape, though. It should have about 1/5 the amount of space it has between the leaves. It almost looks like it is supposed to be a Crosby's Compact which should have all the leaves very close together with proper lighting. Jade grows spindly when it isn't getting enough light. I would take it out of the plastic pot and repot it in a clay pot. Buy one that is shorter. THey are sold as azalea pots. Your soil should be very free draining. When I mix mine, I use one part pine bark fines or soil conditioner, one part grit (decomposing granite), one part high fired clay granules (turface, aquatic soil), and one part small pea gravel. When you water it, water should run almost right through it. If you use peat based soils, they will compact and stay too wet, thus strangling the plant due to lack of oxygen. Even the soils that say they are for Cacti and Succulents are too peaty. You could also try coir inplace of the pine bark fines or in addition to them in place of peat. Almost anything you would use for a bonsai would be okay for a jade since they are very free draining. They don't need a lot of fertilizer. Use something low in nitrogen. I use Schultz Cactus Fertilizer mixed for every watering, but I only give it to them every other watering during their growing season. It is warm where I live until Oct or Nov, which is usually when I stop feeding and slow down watering to once a month until it warms up again in spring. We were warming up in March and then had a frigid spell over Easter holiday. I've gone back and forth with my plants, but having a mild spring has been nice for a change. I hope this helps, and don't hesitate to ask more questions. Do searches on this forum about Jades, and you'll get more than you ever wanted to know about jades. They are, without a doubt, my favorite. I have about 10 different plants, 10 starts from cuttings and two that are bonsaied....See MoreBill V. & others- Help! Dark spots on new tile and grout?
Comments (14)I'd prefer that more grout had been left in the joints. They look dished out a bit too much, where too much grout was removed during the cleanup phase. I'd have preferred the grout to be more flush with the face of the tile. Looking closely at the first two photos, the darkened grout lines are all parallel to one another. In the first photo you can see the wet grout lines are all parallel to the edge of the drain. That leads me to believe that the "uphill" edges of the tiles are acting like mini dams and holding water, they are preventing water from easily flowing downhill to the drain. The second closeup photo, you see the same effect. All the damp grout lines are again parallel to one another. Again, to me that reflects a drainage issue. Not necessarily with the amount of floor pitch, but with the grout lines being so dished out that they hold water and slow drainage. Marble is porous and can absorb water. With the grout lines being a bit too raked out, the edges of the marble hexes are exposed. Water held against the tile edge can lead to absorption into the marble. The crack in the grout in that second photo, you also wrote that there are other cracks. That's usually a sign of too much water used in the grout mix, or that sanded grout should have been used instead of unsanded. Unsanded should be used in joints less than 1/8" wide. Cracks can also indicate movement in the floor, but that shouldn't be an issue with a properly set Kerdi Tray. As far as him having used a preformed Kerdi-Tray, if he did, it appears that is was certainly cut down in an awkward manner. The drain is no where near centered in the shower. So if he did some filling here and there with mud or thinset to even out the floor pitch or edge elevations, that could have be part of the problem. But that's supposition on my part. About the only other thing I could question is that often times with small tiles, when the sheets are set into the thinset, thinset can ooze up between the hex tiles and partially fill the grout lines. That thinset needs to be cleaned out so the grout lines can be completely filled with grout. If it's not, you can get uneven thicknesses of grout, think of it as a veneer of grout over a blob of thinset. That can result in uneven water absorption, the grout cracking, etc. All that aside...with this being your second go-around, he should have install the sloped Kerdi Tray and thinsetted it to the subfloor. Then he should have set the Kerdi drain. Then he should have thinsetted Kerdi Membrane (an orange colored sheet material) over the Kerdi Tray, then tiled on the Kerdi Membrane. I'd be interested in how he tied the Kerdi Membrane in with the wall membrane IF he used Kerdi Membrane over the Kerdi Tray. Best. Mongo...See Morepothos plant leaves turning yellow n dark brown
Comments (8)I tend to agree. If you can repot into just slightly damp soil, cutting off blackened and damaged root, you might be able to save it--I've managed with my pothos and it's now very happy many years later. Nowadays, I water my pothos "when I remember," which is usually when I notice it's wilted. Rather wilted. Once every ten days tops, with the plant receiving bright, filtered light through a paper shade and a southeastern window, and occasional southeastern sunlight if I have the window shade open (spring and fall, sometimes, winter, often). If you can't repot it with fresh soil, this is...not canonical, but sometimes works. Lift the plant. Shake off the soil into the pot and the towel/paper you put the pot on. Cut away black/dead roots and some healthy root around that to get ahead of the damage. Take the existing soil and microwave it until it's steaming hot. We're talking boiling. Spread the soil and let it cool and dry a bit--the plant will be just fine as long as it's inside or in shade for the time being, pothos are tough. Repot in the old, now sterilized and somewhat drier soil. Don't water the new plant until the soil is rather dry. Yeah, sounds crazy, but I've done it. :-) If all else fails, take 6" trimmings off your old pothos and root them in water. Bingo, new pothos! Start in a fresh, new pot with fresh potting soil (the old pot is fine, just sterilize it with a 1 part bleach to 10 parts water solution. Throw out the old soil). Use a light, airy potting soil that dries quickly....See MoreHELP MY hoyas!! Dark spots on the leaves
Comments (0)Could you please tell me what is wrong with my hoyas? I found these dark spots on several of my hoyas. It only appears on the back of the leaves. Top of the leaves seems fine. But I think eventually it will go bad:( Is it because I recently changed the fertilizers? Over waters? Too much light? Please help me...!! 😭 will it spread?...See MoreThe Ficus Wrangler
11 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoHorticultural Help
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoThe Ficus Wrangler
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoThe Ficus Wrangler
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoCourtney Hayes
8 years agoThe Ficus Wrangler
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoThe Ficus Wrangler
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoDeborah Shea
last yearThe Ficus Wrangler
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