I don't know the exact pH, but our area tends to be around a 6.

I was hoping to see a response from someone more experienced than I am, but since no one has answered yet... I have grown blueberries with great success in Montgomery County MD. My guess is that if the best sun is close to the house you should go with that. I have blueberries planted in a bed with strawberries around them, since both love acid soil. I amended the soil (a lot) with peat and compost, and every couple of years acidify it again. But I think that if you have any luck at all, you will want to have at least 3-4 plants of different varieties (ripening at slightly different times). They're wonderful... easiest thing I grow.

velpar works as a pre emergent in a non crop year. sinbar just works on grass in a non crop year. post is only for grass and can be applied when the grass is 3-4 inches once in a cropping year. glyphosate I only apply directly (Brush)after harvest. I have about 4 ac of low bush blue berries and go to classes put on by U of Maine every year. After 15 years I am still the newbie. I have moved from 500 lbs. per ac to 4800 lbs per ac. The old timers say that timming is everything. If you need to apply tuseday may 13 th at 2:30 at 68 degrees you best be on the tractor. Maybe that is why they get 10000- 12000 lbs per ac. When I learn all this I will have my great grand children pick me up at the nursing home and take me home to spray.

"I don't understand how evergreen can acidify soil if they never drop their leaves. Those needles stay on the tree year round so how do they amend soil exactly?" They don't as such (see below, however...), but...trees do remove the resources from the soil around them, so it's not exactly true to say that plants and plant parts don't influence the soil pH or soil resources (same thing, really), around them. Evergreens are famous for drizzling dying needles in piles below them, although it depends on the evergreen (less than one might imagine, I've seen few that didn't, really, that were needle-based). Yes, we can argue for days about "needles" and the definition thereof, but they do age and are replaced. The full explanation follows. As they compost in place, they rot and generally get pretty close to neutral pH (most sources say 6-8. That seems about right from casual measurement). That compost has a lot of free binding points for resources (you can look into CEC--cation exchange capacity--if you want). Those can't just stay empty, it's a matter of energy potential. So they'll grab onto a hydrogen ion from water, letting the oxygen go back into the air. Hydrogen ions are weak acids. The overall result is a weakly acid pile once all is said and done and it's gone from compost to indistinguishable from dirt. How acid depends on the CEC, which depends on the initial composition and the admix into soils. This is not simple. But if you isolated it back out and measured it, let's just estimate it at pH 5.5-6, but a volume low enough that it's not having too terribly much impact on the soil overall. That's easy to fix with a little calcium, or whatever a soil test recommends. The hydrogen only weakly bonds. The calcium has a dual, and much stronger, bond. Any plant pulls calcium (in larger amounts), magnesium (smaller), and potassium (in the middle) from the soil, reducing pH. A soil test would be required to tell you how much, but it does tend to drift faster within a tree's root system than otherwise. Succession comes into play with other plants like dandelions, which don't mind absolutely awful soils. So the situation isn't simple here, as those will throw deep tap roots and mine resources from deeper in the soil, bring them up, and overall richen the topsoil beyond what it had previously. Deeper tree roots can do exactly the same thing. But those resources end up bound into the tree's wood, leaves (needles, in this case), and roots. Tapped from the soil, however, leaves space only for hydrogen again, as described above, or for something else entering soil solution from the solids (aluminum, a strong acid and also toxic, is another possibility, but you could get calcium if you have undissolved calcium carbonate in the soil too). As it relates to blueberries and cedar trees, the rough answer is, "probably not." Cedars like a 5.5 to 7.2 pH (depending on the species, I didn't track back that far as the sub-question didn't really apply). Mine do very well at 6.2, Thuja standishii x plicata. Blueberries would prefer 4.5 to 5.5, so there isn't much overlap there. Trying to grow them too closely together is not going to end well, creates a gradient in the soil that's awfully sharp, and one would be playing games with sulfates and calcium that I really don't want to think about. And, as always, mind the sulfur at the surface; it tends to turn to sulfur dioxide and nobody needs the atmospheric smog and greenhouse gasses. Dig it in, but mind the root systems and patches of extremely low pH.