If they are not pest plants in your area - Hyacinthoides (bluebells) will perform reasonably in those conditions. You could also try Solomon's seal - perhaps variegated to add extra light and texture. It will cope with the roots of the Camellias. Another possible is Epimedium (bishops' hats), Perhaps not sulfurea, but there are some with white, or soft yellow flowers, so not too startling with the usual pinks, reds, splashes of the Camellias. Or quite nice with the soft whites and yellow varieties (Jury's Yellow, for example). Or Vancouveria. If you have a suitable microclimate - and don't mind a brave scarlet - Anomatheca laxa is also possible. Hardy ferns, perhaps, but those fallen flowers can be quite smothering. And Liriope muscari, if it hasn't been 'done to death' in your area. I wouldn't plant directly under. If you have the room, plant beyond the drip line (and main leaf/blossom drop zone) of the Camellias where the plantings can mask the bare zone but it is still clear for feeding, mulching, and access for pruning.

My intent isn't to make you look stupid or inexperienced. My intent is to point out that others would be less disappointed if they don't put the same amount of faith in a humidity tray (HT) that you do. HTs might make some degree of difference, but it's certainly not going to be significant. Maybe, if a number of plants were grouped together and over HTs, you might be able to gain something of a benefit from the grouping, but one plant - one humidity tray, could only play a very minor part in warding off brown tips. When it comes to growing, people are often very poor at relating cause and effect. I'm not singling you out - it's a fact. If you were misting regularly, you'd probably swear it was the misting that was warding off the brown tips, which would also be in error. If you stop and think about it for just a second, I think you'll agree that it takes a combination of a number of favorable factors to produce a plant with pristine or even good looking foliage. BECAUSE it takes a combination of factors, it's no more logical to say it's the result of the HT than it is to say it's the result of any one of: a favorable soil, favorable light, nutrition the plant likes, the right temps, lack of insect predation or disease ..... I'd favor good genetics over a HT any day. If you think it makes a difference, then that's great for you. I'm simply not convinced and wanted to share why. Al

The traditional defense to dining preferences of rabbits is one of those folding wire "rabbit" fences with legs set into the dirt, or something similar like wire mesh. They come knee-high & slightly shorter and can be used to protect a general area or just a specific plant. Useful, too, to corral floppy plants inconspicuously. More decorative permanent edging & fencing with non-squirmable spacing does the trick, with buried mesh to prevent digging underneath. Surrounded by woodlands here, with many rabbits & other wildlings, all with tummies to fill! Find encompassing the beds with plants they don't like deters them from exploring the interior. Lavender, monarda, salvia, heuchera, dusty miller & more work as edging. While waiting for plants to originally fill in, those rabbit fences come in handy! After that, I don't clear the foliage in the Fall even on those not evergreen - perhaps the oils in the leaves & stems continue to repel them or they've decided by then those beds are not interesting? A few of the deer, a small minority of the several herds here, find perfumed phlox irresistible as they begin to bloom (ditto roses). Those are protected by lavender, agastache, others high in essential oils, thick floppy plants & those that obscure their footing. Deer here are very careful where they step while browsing & hesitant to risk where they can't see bare ground, reluctant to even jump into such unsafe territory. Even wire fences laid on the ground in plain sight on grass exclude them (but not the rabbits!), as do upright jumpable fences if the flower or veggie bed is long & narrow without a clearly visible landing place. While redoing a 15x20' bed off the front walk last year, potting up some plants temporarily & leaving others, wound up with tempting open areas in the process. Set empty flower pots on bare soil to keep them from advancing into the bed, on the theory of unsure footing. Sure enough, it worked! With all critters, seems a game of wits & strategy as much as one of claiming territory by fencing... This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Jun 22, 14 at 13:48

Plant all the rhizomes in a well drained sunny bed. Let the tops of the rhizomes get their sunshine. Save one big rhizome for each pot - refresh the soil in the pots or trowel in a tsp. granular fertilizer. Bearded iris like to travel! The tall ones quickly outgrow pots as well as using up the nutrients. The dwarfs are more accomodating than the talls if you have cold winters for them.