Large flowering clems group II are known to have wilt for first several years of their life. Sometimes it is not a wilt but because stems are so brittle any direct contact to them as to location, watering might accidentaly damage it. Many clems are known to have lower leaves yellowing and browning and eventually ugly looking lower part of plant. If your clem flowered just fine but then some parts starting to die it is pretty much normal as many perennials start looking battered and ugly after they finish their bloom. Do not believe those ads which promise you continuous bloom from spring to fall- none of the clems will do that ;) Anyway, carefully remove dead stem, you still can add gently fertilizer and some good compost to plant base and water well. If you planted your clem deep enough and soil was well prepared by next spring you will have lots of new strong growth. I am pruning my all early blooming clems now- it does not hurt them and gives them chance to regrow new foliage before frost, and even possibly bloom later on. The only clem one should be careful with pruning are group one- early blooming macropetala and alpina- once they are several years old they will resent any disturbance. Cutting into old stems of well established clems presents a problem as well but by that time wilt is usually not a problem.

You can check the roots & change the soil. The roots can be cleaned off with a power nozzle, & any unnecessary root material removed. The roots tolerate trimming, & it is a good idea to cut away all bad roots while transplanting. I have not seen white worms with fungus gnats, but from the posters above it looks like it is possible. Make sure they are not termites.

I've had this plant for several years and always thought it was a yucca. Tonight, while moving furniture I accidentally knocked it over and it landed right on the biggest branch and it broke clean off. I'm really bummed, it was over 6' tall with that branch, now it's less than 5' (and that corner of the room looks so bare now!). I searched online to see what to do with the 2' of leaves that broke off but looking at photos I'm no longer convinced it's a yucca, I think it may have been incorrectly labeled when I bought it. It looks much more like a dracaena fragrens, without the variegated leaves (the leaves are broader than all the photos I see of a yucca elephantipes). Problem is the instructions to pot the broken branch are very different depending on whether it's a yucca (leave it out for a couple of days before potting, similar to a succulent) or a dracaena (put it in water and/or with rooting hormone to let it grow roots then repot). For now I've cut the bottom to a clean edge, pulled of the bottom couple of leaves and stuck it deep in the pot with the rest of the plant, and watered the soil just a tiny bit (it was pretty dry and due for a watering). But I'm sure that's not enough. Can anyone help? I assume the broken trunk will probably do very well and produce new shoots near where this break was, but I hate to think of all this long branch with all these lovely leaves just dying. Anyone have any ideas what I should do and which plant I actually have?

Your Yucca cane roots are dying and the upper portion now has no way to absorb water. That is why the leaves are wilted. The basal shoots emerge only when the roots are mostly dead and are a sign that the plant is making a last desperate attempt to survive. My guess is you will also find that the outer bark is starting to pull away and is becoming papery. Finally, the heaviness of the soil indicates that it is too wet. Yuccas require lots of sunlight and soil that dries out at least a third of the way deep into the pot. I suspect that the combination of inadequate light and too frequent watering have caused the roots to rot. I am sorry to say that the chances of recovery at this point are unlikely. ~Will