Nice list, thanks! I have a dog, so the indoor plants I have are nontoxic: an african violet, a nontoxic fern, culinary herbs in hubby's Aerogarden, and a goldfish plant (which I love!! It is so cool looking.) Used to have a Persian violet which was fabulous and fragrant-- smelled great for about 2 months, but it eventually finished flowering, sickened and died. It was replaced by the goldfish plant.

Crazy Greenlarry. I never get a problem with bugs on my plants in the greenhouse. I think it's because it stays moist in there and I keeps the fans going 24/7. As for Mealy? That is always a possiblity no matter what we do. Purple....Yes. I threw them away because one year, years ago, I dealt with a Mealy and Spider Mite problem in which stemmed from my palms. I have heard they are HUGE Spider Mites magnets. My Fish Tail one at work got hit hard last year with mitesm, but probably because I had just bought in last fall and never cleaned the leaves off then. Now, if I were to grow some, they would have to share the same room with all my other 100 plants or so, and I am so afraid to have another outbreak. I avoid all plants with lots of hiding room now. As for the one you posted above, I would give that one a try, not only because it's beautiful, but also for the reason stated earlier. I have never had any issues with bugs on my Kentia though. Thanks. P.s. What's up with the ads popping at us and not allowing us to post anything until it disappears? Mike:-)

First thing I would advise is to move the palm to a window. That corner is not going to provide it enough light. I can't really tell from the picture, but it looks like it might be a majesty palm, in which case, there's little hope, because those things aren't house plants and will almost never grow for you in the house. But if it's not a majesty, try moving it so it can get more light. Now, about the soil moisture. First, if there are drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, and it's a fairly new plant, the problem isn't drainage. If there aren't drainage holes, you need to get it into a pot with drainage. Second, over watering or under watering is a problem that takes place over a period of time, not right after you water. The object of testing the soil moisture, as I show in my videos, is to figure out the moisture level all through the plant, that is, all the way to the bottom of the pot, and use that information to decide whether or not it's time to water again. Palms like their soil to be slightly damp, soft and cool feeling, before more water is added, but not so damp that the soil sticks together hard when you squeeze it. If you always let the soil (all the way through the pot, remember,) aerate to the prescribed stage, you'll never overwater. When it reaches the soft and cool stage (1/2 way between "dry" and "moist" on a moisture meter,) it's time to water. Don't let the plant sit around with dry soil, because that stresses them, so you want to water as soon as the soil aerates enough. When you water, always water so that you get a runoff from the drainage holes of 1/2 - 1", then let the plant sit in the drainage water. If you always water as soon as the soil is ready, and you always water enough for runoff, you'll never underwater. If you want to talk about this more, or it's not clear to you, please ask more questions, I'll be glad to go over it with you.

Dear Purple, I do appreciate your experience, your love for plants, and you concern for helping others nurture their own passion. My feelings are quite the same as yours, but my experience is different. What I've learned is that the critical factor in having healthy, beautiful plants is soil moisture/aeration cycles. Perhaps if anyone has found their plants doing better as soon as they ended the "wet saucer" practice, it was not so much that in itself, but other factors that were allowing the plant(s) to reach more favorable aeration levels between waterings. There are always many variables in operation. What I do know is that by ascertaining the soil moisture throughout the medium in which the plant is growing (meaning all the way to the bottom of the pot), and by allowing the moisture/aeration ration to reach the optimum level for that particular variety of plant, you are taking the first, largest, and most important step in assuring a long and beautiful life for your plants. This is not "arcane anecdotes," but practice established over 50 years, by 1000's of people, and millions of plants. I'm not saying what you, or anyone else, are doing is wrong. On the contrary, if your plants are thriving, if they make you happy and beautify your life, it is totally right. But don't you think people who are seeking advice should be able to consider several possible approaches? What about very busy people; even if they feel they can spare no more than a few minutes a week on plants, shouldn't they be able to have plants if they are willing to spend those few minutes? These are the people I'd like to encourage. Maybe some of them will get "bit by the bug," and end up with a thousand plants in their home ( the 1000 plant thing, as related in the 'first plant' thread, just blows my mind), using all sorts of culture methods - hydroponics, gritty mixes, tree bark, self-mixed soil recipes, exotics in environmentally-controlled cases the size of half a room. Who knows? So, to address a few of the matters you bring up, from my point of view -- 1) yes, newly potted-up plants are susceptible to rotted roots - all the more reason to get in there and make sure the soil has aerated thoroughly. (Also not-too-large pots, more porous medium, etc.) 2) it's not the roots growing through the drainage holes that "suck up" water in liners; the water actually moves back into the soil/root mass from the liner through those drainage holes, and spreads evenly throughout the pot volume, if the medium has a good particle/space ratio, where it is then available to the roots. 3) distinction between corporate and personal plants - (hoping I can shed some light on the interior landscape business here). First of all, it's a business, meaning it has to make a profit or it's out of business. Replacements are costly - therefore the technician must keep the plants looking beautiful (not just "clinging to life") as long as possible, or they cut into an already slim profit margin. Secondly, people are paying to have beautiful plants, and that is how they must be kept, or the customer find a new service. Thirdly, people get very attached to "their" plants - the people whose offices have plants, people who have plants near their desks, and the tech taking care of the plants. Fourth, corporate plants are not generally put into "adverse conditions" "at the limits of their endurance" "clinging to life" - no profit in it; contracts require that plants be placed in adequate light and protected conditions. So it might not be like having some of grandma's plants, but folks still love the plants that help make the corporate world a little less cold. I could go on and on. I'm sure everyone thinks I've already gone on way too long as it is. So you disagree with me? Cool! I love to examine differing viewpoints from varied angles, to try and pick out the threads of insight that knit together seemingly opposing positions. Oh yea, those nasty plastic disks in the bottom of some plants. I honestly don't know why they're so bad, they have holes and all and should just let water through, but they don't. I just know if you find them, you should take them out and throw them away.