It showed up in one of my plum trees 3 years ago. A chill ran down my spine at the thought of all my plums getting this. I cut out the two branches, and have not seen it since. Lots of black cherry here. Only saw one old tree with it. I cut it down and burned the branches. Tyrone

Idahomeboy, I too started on the container forum. But I found this forum substantially more helpful for growing fruits in pots. I found that the recipes for the "gritty mix" and the "5-1-1" mix were way too dry for my purposes. And the gritty mix is extremely heavy. (It is based on rocks, after all.) I use a wetter, but well draining soil mix and I still must water every day. Although he also grows in ground, fruitnut has shared a wealth of information on growing fruits in pots. Try searching this forum for his posts. There's a lot of great info here. I'm just a beginner. I'm in ohio, zone 5. In pots, I grow or have grown in pots strawberries, mulberries, gooseberries, sweet cherries, blueberries, and blackberries. I haven't harvested any plums or boysenberries yet, but I'm working on those too. Everything I've needed to know to grow those fruits in pots I learned here on this forum. So you're in the right place. Good luck

Cus, Here are some selection for you: Table 1. Summary of Japanese plums for home use in Georgia Cultivar Fertility Skin/Flesh Color Ripening Date Cropping Dessert/Preserve Quality Methley Self* Red-purple/Blood 6/03 Reliable Morris Not Dark red/Red 6/16 Productive AU Rubrum Not Dark red/Red 6/15 Reliable AU Producer Not Dark red/Red 6/20 Very Productive Spring Satin Not Red-black/Yellow 6/02 Productive Byrongold Not Yellow/Yellow 6/30 Rubysweet Not Red-bronze/Blood 6/15 Productive Preferred as Green Plums Bruce Not Orange-red/Yellow 5/31 Reliable Six Weeks Not Red/Yellow-red 5/25 Robusto Not Bright red/Red 6/05 Productive Segundo Not Yellow-red/Yellow-red 6/11 Productive * Though self-fertile, the provision of a different variety in the garden will improve pollination and production. Conditions that are not harmful to bees improve production. Peaches: Variety Harvest Date Stone Freeness Flesh Color Firmness Flordaking Late May-Early June Cling Yellow Low Camden Mid May Cling Yellow Medium Flordadawn Mid May Cling Yellow Medium Flordacrest Mid May Semi-free Yellow Medium Flordaglobe Mid-Late May Cling Yellow Medium Empress Mid-Late May Cling Yellow Med-High Sunbrite Mid-Late May Cling Yellow Medium Springcrest Mid-Late May Cling Yellow High Candor Mid-Late May Semi-free Yellow Medium June Gold Mid-Late May Cling Yellow Medium Shepard's Beauty Late May Cling Yellow Medium Derby Late May Cling Yellow Medium Goldprince Late May-Early June Cling Yellow High Surecrop Early-Mid June Semi-free Yellow Medium Summerprince Early-Mid June Semi-free Yellow High Juneprince Late May-Mid June Semi-free Yellow High Flavorcrest Mid May Free Yellow Very High Gala Mid-Late June Free Yellow High Rubyprince Early-Mid June Free Yellow Med-High Harvester Mid-Late June Free Yellow Med-High Cary Mac Mid-Late June Free Yellow High Sunland Mid June Free Yellow High Suwanee Mid-Late June Free Yellow Medium Redhaven Mid-Late June Semi-free Yellow High Encore Late July Free Yellow Med-High Redglobe Late June-Early July Free Yellow High Majestic Late June-Early July Free Yellow High Summergold Early July Free Yellow Medium Fireprince Late June- Early July Free Yellow High Contender Late June-Early July Free Yellow High Bounty Early July Free Yellow High Elegantlady Early July Free Yellow Very High Cresthaven Early-Mid July Free Yellow High Dixiland Mid July Free Yellow Med-High Fay Elberta Mid July Free Yellow Med-High Redskin Mid July Free Yellow High Sunprince Mid July Free Yellow High Ruston Red Mid July Free Yellow Medium O'Henry Late July - Early Aug Free Yellow Very High Jefferson Mid-Late July Free Yellow Med-High Summerlady Mid July Free Yellow High Parade Early August Free Yellow High Flameprince Late July - Early Aug Free Yellow High Tyler Late July-Early Aug Free Yellow Med-Hi Tony

I'm by no means an expert on the subject however, I have several different varieties of fruit trees in my back yard that I planted last year. One thing that is most important with pruning fruit trees is making sure you hollow out the center of the tree to allow for sufficient sunlight. So many people just plant fruit trees and sit back and wait for the harvest...........doesn't work that way! I also spray mine in the spring when they releaf from the chill season.........and yes, they must defoliate and have a chill season.......sometimes requiring you to help it along by various means. You can't spray them in south Florida once temperatures get above 75F according to instructions on the bottle. I also dabble with roses and crape myrtle. I have beautiful full roses because my grandfather taught me up north to cut them right back to no more than 2' high in late fall. When they come back in the spring they are very hearty and full of blooms. I do this with my crape myrtle as well, hybiscus, and other nursery stock........got to get rid of all the life sucking obstacles whether suckers, or too much interior on the fruit trees, or whatever else is dogging the plant! I also fertilize all of my plants and use a few secret ingredients that helps them thrive!