campv: Stark's have a dwarf 'Hardy Giant' Asian pear dwarf supreme that they list as disease resistant. They say their other varieties of Asian pears are not disease resistant. Do you remember the name of the Asian pear that you have there? The pics of the 'Hardy Giant' show quite large pears but I'd expect them to be smaller here for us. fruitnut: I wonder if Stark's 'Hardy Giant'is similar to your Korean Giant or Olympic? I'd prefer firm/crunchy as opposed to juicy also!

Californian: Nectarines have a natural drop, like most stone fruits (except cherries), but there is no reason to wait for it. Thin off the smaller fruits in favor of the larger, better positioned models. The big ones are less likely to drop naturally anyway, the moreso after they have been thinned. Thin off all the doubles completely. There is no reason to try to conserve half of a double unless you have an extremely poor fruit set. I hope that little black branch on your Asian pear is not fireblight. Probably not in California, but you never know. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

On the N debate, don't assume that what applies to grapes applies to pear trees. One is a vine, and the other a tree, which makes them totally different. A study of apples and N may allow one to make a reasonable, but not certain assumption, but research into pears would be the most reliable. I have seen much lore of one variety of plant or pest be applied to another, even though the correlation was wrong. A good example was a recent thread about ants on a sweet cherry tree. In most cases, ants on a tree would indicate aphid farming, but sweet cherries use ants for a completely different function not related to aphids. There were many posts pointing to aphids before it was pointed out that cherries are a different matter. Another example would be that most plants like pH between 6 and 7, but you can't apply that to blueberries. My point is we have to be very skeptical of research on one plant and assuming it applies to another. Unfortunately, generalities like this exist everywhere. Do you own research, and do not accept common wisdom as the truth.

Sharppa, From what I've gathered from several experts here, for peach, each problem is treated with different chemicals at different time. Peach leaf Curl and backterial leaf spot, I use copper during dormant season. I use copper hydroxide (Kocide 3000) in late fall and early spring. For brown rot, some use Monterey Fungi Fighter about a month before harvest. Otheres use Captan (which also helps with peach scab). I have not used any. So far, brown rot is not too severe for me (yet). Peach scab, some use Captan, I use wettable sulfur (not as effective but, to me, it's less harmful than Captan). You should add sticker such as Bonide Turbo or NuFilm 17 so the chemicals stay on trees longer. As for insects, I also use Triazicide but some here don't think it works for them. I work for me. I don't use immunox on peach. It does not help. Immunox is famous for preventing Cedar Apple Rust on apples in the spring. I'll see if I could answer your Asian pears on another post. I have 4 Asian pear varieties and more than 4 pear problems!!! By the way, what part of the country you live. It can make a difference.