When to bring Christmas cactus back inside?
hallgal2
16 years ago
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hallgal2
16 years agoRelated Discussions
When do you bring them inside?
Comments (15)"I dont want to play the in/out game, where plants are moved inside one night then back outside the next warmer day, be it moving the whole collection or certain plants that may or may not like it that cold" Well,that's certainly how I felt last year. So a cold wet spell early in September brought all the phals in for the "winter". But that cold wet spell was followed by more than two weeks of glorious warm weather. Night (day as well) temperatures are extremely variable here this time of year. A night of 58 can be followed by a night of 72. The solution, for anyone who wants to try it, is to put the orchids on biggish two-shelf carts. These hold a lot of plants, and can be wheeled in or out in about 5 minutes. You can have one cart for "warmer" and one for "cooler", and then might only need to bring in one cart. The carts also enable me to protect them from bad storms or several days of cold/dim/wet which we get every year. Shade cloth is easy to rig, supported by the carts themselves. This spring I found that in direct sun, temperatures on the cart are at least 70-80 even if the ambient temperature is 55 or so. So being outside on sunny days, not only gives them glorious sun, but also much more warmth than they would get indoors. Using the carts this spring, I was able to have phals outdoors from the end of March and got wonderful growth and spikes on every mature phal, over 20 of them spiking. By April, they needed shade cloth! This fall, based on last year's weather they should be able to be outside most days til at least the middle or end of October, maybe even later. An example: yesterday and today were warm and humid-- temperature in the 80's, nights in the 70's. Tomorrow we get up to 6" of rain from Ike, some quite heavy, and they will come in tonight and stay in til Monday morning, when the rain will be over and the sun bright again, but the day cool. In Monday night for the low of 50F, out Tuesday, etc. It may seem like a lot of trouble, but it takes no more time than filling a couple of glasses with ice to take to my desk, and it shortens the winter here by about 4 months. And to me, THAT is priceless. My only problem with orchids are the long, long winters. If you grow indoors til nights reliably above 60 in Spring (end of May) and from same in Fall (early Sept), the "winter" is 8 months long. Too long. By Feb, I can barely stand the mess and clutter one more second. The carts shorten the winter to 4-5 months, a little over half. And that's worth 10' a day to me move the carts in and ouf for a few months. Hope this can be of use to someone, since it took me 5 years to evolve this solution. (Yes, sometimes I'm pretty slow)...See Morewhen to bring potted knock-out rose tree inside
Comments (13)Follow Michael's and Susan's advice and it should be fine. I keep my rose tree in my shed for the winter and in the spring when things start to warm up I can tell when it looks like it wants to start budding out. That's when I wheel it back outside into the light. If there is going to be a deep freeze I wheel it back in. That's when the wheeled pot trolley is the most beneficial. It makes it much easier to move that big, heavy, tall awkward pot in and out. I've been doing this for 6 years now and it's still doing great!...See MoreHow/When to water blooming Christmas Cactus
Comments (8)Thank you, Pirate Girl and Norma, for your very helpful responses! You are surely right about one thing, I have learned a Lot by reading over the past week--first, this forum's FAQ and archived Christmas cactus threads; then some other excellent information sites on the web. These other sites originated from botany and horticulture departments of various universities. It's hard to know where to start, so I'll just hit points as they fit. Plant wrappings are no problem; I generally remove them soon after getting a plant. Also in the process of elimination is the notion that normal movement, without significant temp change, is detrimental. After all, every one of my Christmas cacti was Moved in the process of its being presented to me--some for quite some distance on trucks or through the mail! All came in bud or in bloom, and none lost any significant number of buds. Having tried to ferret out the reason for bud drop for some time, I am aware from experience that these plants do not want to be household warm when they move into the blooming mode. Mine live, all year, where it is coolest in winter (diurnal range of 55 to 68 F.) in good bright light, but shielded from direct sun. This plant's need for uniform cool winter temps is what originally prompted me to use only cold water, but you surely have a point, Pirate Girl. Cold water in a temperate climate is a far cry from Cool water in the subtropics. It is entirely possible that this watering temp has been shocking these budded plants--even though the same temp water was used for weeks leading up to the actual bud drop. When Norma 2006 wrote: 'In nature they grow high in trees have fast drainage,...' she gave me an 'AHA! moment'. For some reason I had never read and never realized that Christmas cacti were EPIPHYTES! No wonder my poor CCs struggle to bloom! Heavy watering (saturation of pot) can smother roots in close or compacted media; and pot saturation in cool temps can promote root rot. Either way, bud blast will result. This was born out in at least two information sources I read, Clemson University and the U. of North Dakota (live link below). Finally, Pirate Girl wrote: 'Don't know where got your idea abt maybe water being trapped in the bottom of the pot & the paper towel business, don't think this is true or a problem. Pls. forget that completely & stop blotting the plant like that.' This principle (for which I cannot take credit, by the way) was first explained to me in a post by Al a.k.a. 'tapla,' a soil and Bonsai specialist who frequently posts on GW forums. (The principle is explained, again, in one of tapla's recent posts noted, below, after my signature.) This principle concerns the percentage of water which never drains from a pot and how it becomes detrimental to potted plants. It made immediate good sense to me. Wicking away this water ("the paper towel business") is my short term solution to water retention problems. As said at the beginning of this post, I've learned a lot over the past week. Norma's revelation (to me) that these plants were epiphytes in the wild pointed me to the primary cause of my plants' bud blast. I was suffocating them. While it is possible that cold water was also a contributing factor, that will remain to be seen next blooming season. My plan of contrition is to repot my Christmas cacti into loose media more befitting housebound epiphytes, and to avoid media saturation for the duration of their bloom period and, except for flushing, thereafter. As a test, I plan to separate out two of the five CCs and treat them exactly the same as the other three, except for watering them with cold water, instead of room temp. Norma and Pirate Girl (and Al!), thank you very much for your time and help in thinking this through. Here's hoping for persistent CC buds next blooming season! Sweetcicely ~ tapla Post: 'Be a plant P.I. (very long post)' paragraph 15 which begins, 'Let us take a moment to consider the cultural effects of growing in a poor soil as opposed to a good soil.' This is located at the following URL: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg1215043526101.html?32 Here is a link that might be useful: Christmas Cactus saturation and Bud Drop...See MoreCool nights recently - when do we bring things inside?
Comments (11)Regina, I will have to check the label on my systemic and post the name later. It is a granule that I get at Mayos, plus I have used one of the Ortho systemic liquids. Brugs - - I take my versi's inside once the night-time temps drop into the mid 40's (I store my dormant). Since I don't know exactly which one your unnamed Peach is - - hard to tell if it can be left out longer. There isn't much you can do to encourage these to grow taller (except plant them in the ground). If you take cuttings, you may or may not get a larger plant next year. However, if you plant these in the ground next year (mature root balls!), chances are you will start to get some ground level suckers that will grow taller. But I will tell you that my inground brugs (mature or this year's cuttings) are all huge. Some are more bush like, while others are standards. I store my versi's inside a closet in the basement (temps above 50). Caladiums - if in pots, bring inside once the foliage starts to die down. If you are having to lift the corms, I recommend you do it BEFORE the foliage dies down or you will have a hard time finding the corms. Important - store in darkness above 50 degrees. If storing lifted corms, put in peat moss to keep them from drying out. DO NOT WATER. Variegated (Tropical) hibiscus - bring inside once night time temps go below 40 degrees. Can be brought in sooner, but be sure to not let it get cooler than 40 degrees. Tropical hibiscus either need to be kept growing at temps about 65 with LIGHT, or in a semi dormant state above 50 degrees. NOTE - most but not all will come back from being stored semi dormant. EE's - should be safe to let light frost kill foliage. I usually take my ears in before then - - just because it's easier for me to! Store in dry, cool place. Magilla Perilla - - self seeds and comes back for me Clero Thompsoniae - - I take mine inside right before the first frost. Cuttings taken now should do ok if kept warm. I keep my mature plant in the garage at temps above 40 degrees. It does go dormant but leafs back out in the spring. Angel Wing Begonia - - I take mine inside right before the first frost. VERY prone to fungus - keep on the dry side. I usually try to keep mine growing in the garage under lights, but will cut them back in mid to late winter if fungus takes over. They DO come back from being cut back. Hardy begonia - - are hardy here if planted in the ground. If in a pot, just stick them in a cool, dry place. Ginger from the East Tn Swap - - I am presuming this is a Hedychium like Butterfly. Can be hardy here if mulched (if planted in a place with good drainage). I lift mine and put them in huge pots (cut back the foliage to ground level). They can be stored in a cool, dry place dormant, or given a LITTLE water and moderate light for them to resprout. Regina, these need a long growing season, and consistent watering all summer to bloom late in our summer. Mine are gorgeous now and smell wonderful!...See Morepageysgirl
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