Help! Large pothos (marble queen) wilting after repot
sally_k
10 years ago
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Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
10 years agosally_k
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
My Pothos
Comments (20)Jay Kay - I saw that post you made on Jessenia and have been monitoring it. I have already started to watch for it in my area! Below is a link to the original post I made on Jade Satin and how I came to have this patented plant. I have never seen it for sale anywhere. In my (limited) experience it is very slow growing but I think it is so pretty! I did have to order my Jade pothos online last year. But now in my new job there is a large one that I have taken a few cuttings from and am waiting for them to root. There is someone on here that has mixed pots of philos that I love and I want to do that with some pothos. I would love to have a big pot with Jade, MQ, golden and some variegated like Manjula, Pearls and Jade or others. I know lots of people think pothos are boring or "old fashioned" but a big, bushy, pothos with long vines to me is so pretty. I love outdoor gardening too and where I live, many months out of the year that is simply not possible. So these plants satiate my gardening urges over the winter! Epipremnum Jade Satin...See MorePothos help - all new growth deformed / blackened
Comments (14)Do you live in a large city? While a 2-week wait (or longer) for the soil to dry down is fairly common, commonality doesn't mean the plants that grow in it are going to show appreciation. Let's work on that point, and I have some other ideas that will allow you to make adjustments that might fix whatever is going on. That you can go long intervals between waterings w/o under-watering means there is an excess of water in the grow medium for at least a week after a thorough watering and perhaps longer. I know you've been at GW for awhile now, so you've probably read my tips on how to significantly reduce the amount of excess water your medium can hold. I'll outline them in case you're already familiar. * You can use items in the pot bottom as ballast to displace a large fraction of the grow medium that would otherwise be filled with excess water. * If the pot is of manageable size, moving it downward then sharply upward while holding the pot over the sink can remove ALL excess water from the pot. * You can tip the pot when done watering, which also removes a good measure of excess water. * You can use a wick through the side of the pot exactly where the sidewall meets the bottom (that's the best spot) or through the drain hole. Compare B to A to see what tipping your pots gains you; and compare E to A to see what a wick can do. Figure D is one way of using an item as ballast, but there are other set-ups. Sometimes, when the bark is too large, you'll get stratification where the peat migrates to the bottom of the soil column (causing it to remain wet for long periods) while all the bark is at the top of the soil column; but through the tell, it would seem you'd be picking up on that. Still, it's worth investigating when you repot. Wet soil and organic forms of N can combine to cause ammonium toxicity, and your fertilizer derives all of its N from urea. This is a very common issue but one seldom diagnosed. Your fertilizer doesn't contain Ca or Mg. Garden lime serves as not only a pH adjuster, but as a source of Ca and Mg as well. The magnesium fraction of garden lime is more than 125X more soluble in water than the calcium carbonate it contains, so it's not uncommon for a planting to need a Mg boost after a couple of years, especially when using a fertilizer that contains no Mg. I used to use and recommend MG 12-4-8 or MG 24-8-16 because I hadn't yet found Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. It has ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, and serves admirably as a complete single source nutrition package. I use it for all plants except tomato and hibiscus. For those, I still use it, but I increase the amount of K it contains for hibiscus and tomato by adding ProTeKt 0-0-3, which also contains silicon, which I have found makes a big difference in that it helps plants better tolerate heat/cold, too wet/too dry, insect herbivory and disease pathogens. You might want to try the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. In the meanwhile, you can try adding a dose of Epsom salts with a solution strength equal to 1/4 level tsp/gal. I almost never recommend dosing with anything aimed at providing a single nutrient, but in this case there is so little probability of a negative result it seems reasonable. Finally, the damage is concentrated in areas of the leaf where the variegation is lightest. If these plants get much foll sun, it could be sunburn. The pigment, chlorophyll, actually protects the leaf's photosynthesizing apparatus from solar overload. Leaf tissues with little to no chlorophyll are much more sun-sensitive than their greener neighbors. Al...See MoreWilting Philodendron after Repot
Comments (10)Sorry, but I don't think this is a Philodendron rather a Pothos. Bit too raggedly looking to be sure. But I think both can be handled & propagated the same way. I believe this has been made unnecessarily complicated & in short, you're killing the plant w/ kindness & overwatering (overwatering is THE most common killer of houseplants). Pothos are usually restarted from cuttings, often discarding the original plant if rather spent & beat up like yours (sorry). After 22 yrs. in the same pot, I wouldn't bother keeping the base part of the plant, especially w/ roots rotting repeatedly, as you've mentioned. Likely why that's happening is that pot is too big for the amount of plant material left. I suspect what's happening is this: too much soil for too little plant material being kept too wet all the time. That equals root rot, because the roots can't get any air, they're too wet, so they rot. This plant needs to dry out somewhat btwn waterings so the roots can get some air. I would have gone w/ Cactus & Succulent soil (C&S mix) combined w/ Perlite, in equal parts, like 50/50. That's all you needed; peat is not a good idea for houseplants, unless a small amount (it can become too compact & then water repellent which makes drainage problems). I am unfamiliar w/ pre-wetting soil, not something I do. Also normally, one should fill a pot w/ soil up to just an inch from the top. As is, those plants are potted too low in the pot, but I wouldn't bother doing anything else w/ those remnants. Don't mean to be brutal, but I'd discard those rotting leftovers & focus on the cuttings, of which you probably have many. Shorter is better should you not know that. 2-3 pairs of leaves per cutting is plenty. Pls. stop misting, it's not helping & is keeping the plants too wet. "I tried to get as close in on the soil-level stems as possible." Sorry, I don't know what this means. For now, I'd skip fertilizer, sugar, any extra doodads & just let the poor things get re-established. I see you've tried really hard to improve the plants, but now, I'd like you to consider keeping it simpler along the lines of 'less is more'. These plants do well w/ a fair amount of neglect even tho' that doesn't sound right. Good to see you know to pot up the water rooting cuttings after they get roots about 1" long . Lots of cuttings in small pots is a good idea. As example, a 3" pot could take 3 or 4 cuttings. Let me look for a pic of mine. This is a 4" pot. This plant gets watered maybe every 7-10 days, depending when I notice & remember ;>) The container that pot sits in has pebbles in the bottom, so I water to overflow into the pebbles ON TOP of which, sits that pot. It matters that the bottom of the pot is not in the water, rather just above it. That set up is referred to as a humidity tray. Some plants really appreciate it!...See MorePlease Help...Fürguson may have been water boarded during repotting!
Comments (9)Robin & Gudang's hep and advice... robin98(NZ(9b)) 23 hours ago Len, don't be too down! Of all your plants this one is the trickiest, if that's any consolation. How was he when you got home? 1 Like Bookmark Edit|DeleteLen M 21 hours ago Thanks so much for the reassuring words, Robin. I have to say that I am much better today than I was when I left out for work on my last trip. I returned home last night to find Fürguson was not as bad as I imagined he'd be. His leaves at the bottom of both stems were dry, curled up and pretty much dead. Some of his larger leaves had brown spots and he was drooping extremely badly....To the point where I'm wondering if his petioles will ever rebound & lift his large heavy leaves back up? Also, his stem seemed a little shriveled from midway down & the greener part of the stem toward the top was quite soft. Last thing I noticed was the soil was SOOOO dry almost throughout. Of course I refrained from watering him, but I do wonder if this is normal for the gritty mix or is it b/c I failed to soak the bark for an adequate amount of time? I sure hope to receive answers and advice soon. I'll sit tight until then. In the meantime here are the photos I took of him before flying out this morning... Not as brown & shriveled as I thought he would be... Dead looking shriveled bottom leaves :( Some browning on the larger leaves... The 2 new leaves that sprouted on top of the stem w j-hooked roots. Still very flacid. They're being supported by a branch I found in my backyard & I wrapped the limp new leaves with one of the only leaves that had broken off from the bottom of my Fiddle during the repotting. Again, thank you, Robin for taking the time to show interest in my Fiddle's well being. Len Like Bookmark Gudang TropEq 20 hours ago Yeah, seem good enough for plant that just got extreme root pruning. For healthy tree, i don't clean soil on the rootzone since too many root hair in there. I just fix root position and cut only the root that extremely circling, so after repot, no need to wait till it rebound to it's normal condition. On your case, the tree need to regrow root and root hair, so it will need more time to metabolism normally. During developing root, the leaves will suffer since no suply energy for them so some will fall. In extreem, it will reduce stems so only few inches of the trunk above the ground that it keep alive, with new buds as old stem replacement. On your case i ussualy give foliar feeding since root still unable to give nutrients for the leaves. Only few absorbed, but it's better than none. robin98(NZ(9b)) 20 hours ago You're very welcome. I'll try to give you some advice, but first off have to say I've never made or used gritty, hopefully someone experienced with that will chime in to help you. And I'm a bit useless with the root pruning - I had to smile when I read that part, because that's pretty much what I do : trim the long roots straight across the bottom but chicken out of doing anything major! It will be a week in the new mix by the time you get back, so I wouldn't pull it out again. He'll have been putting energy into growing new fine root hairs, and you'll just set that process right back again, making it harder to recover. It sounds it was best to change the old mix, if it was staying wet that long. That would have been trouble in winter. I'd let it recover now, get through winter, build up some energy reserves in spring then repot with more thorough root pruning in summer. I'd also suggest using 511 for the soil mix as it retains a bit more water (while still being aerated) which gives you more leeway than gritty. If it gets hot where you live in summer, and your job takes you away for a few days at a time, you might find the gritty dries out too fast. Right for now its care will be a bit different, while it's recovering. Put it in a warm bright spot, out of direct sun or drafts. Keep its roots moist while it is re-establishing (my understanding of gritty is that the top levels dry out pretty fast so you might need to water more often and/or put something on the surface to keep moisture in the upper levels, correct me people if I'm wrong...) Usually you're not supposed to fertilise until you see new growth, but that also might be different with gritty. New growth means roots have regrown and now energy can be directed to the leaves. When you see this move it to more sun and let it dry out more in between waterings. I wouldn't cut any leaves just yet. Hope some of that helps :)...See Morestewartsjon
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agosally_k
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
10 years agosally_k
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agosally_k
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10 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreentoe357
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10 years agolast modified: 9 years agosally_k
10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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