Help w/ Ficus Tree Dying branch by branch
jennykaye
13 years ago
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Comments (11)
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Advice for new apple tree w/broken branches (pic)
Comments (14)Thanks for the fantastic advice everyone. I like the idea of hacking the thing off and letting all new branches grow to get it started with the best shape, but "live buds" question is confusing me. I looked at the lower part of the trunk and there are a bunch of places where buds may have been or may still be, but I'm having a hard time telling which. The presence of buds on the small branches is very easy to detect, but on the trunk, there are "marks" where the bud should be, but I don't see the bud itself sticking out. One of those areas even looks like a branch started to grow but was cut or broken off. Will all of these "marks" form branches regardless of what they look like now? (sorry for my non-lingo with words like, "marks"). Or could I do some of the pruning suggested above, and wait to see if lower branches form and if they do, then do some more drastic pruning, like cutting it off 24 inches from the ground? Any thoughts? Thanks again for all your help, Bart...See MoreBranch pruning, Ficus Benjamina
Comments (10)When you have a healthy tree, it opens avenues you couldn't have otherwise traveled, so 'way to go'! Now is the best time for repotting if needed, and subsequently pruning - after the plant shows new growth as its evidence it's sufficiently recovery after the root work. You only want your tree to have one head. Right now, it has 2 or 3. The apex will be determined by the potting angle (of the trunk) and an imaginary vertical line from where the trunk exits the soil. The apex eventually should be near to straight above the point where the trunk exits the soil. Start your pruning by correcting any problem branches - those growing straight up, down, or back toward the center of the plant. Correct crossing branches by retaining the crossing component that best compliments the plants outline & eliminating branches that don't compliment it. Then, determine your apex./ That should be the tallest part of the plant. Other branches should be pruned back to a branch growing horizontal or slanting slightly downward on the lower part of the tree, and horizontal to slightly upward on the middle part of the tree, to slightly upward on the upper part of the tree. On the 'B' side, what you have circled should be removed by pruning it back to the lowest horizontal branch that is lowest on the trunk and moves left in the picture. There are actually 2 pruning opportunities for the 'B' foliage mass. Pick the one that looks the best. You should be mainly concerned with making sacrifices in appearance now that promise the best potential for tomorrow's appearance. In picture 5, the low branch moving right - the heavy nearly horizontal branch in the background should be removed back to where it joins with the smaller branch (about where it crosses the flutes in the door trim in the background. After that, you'll look for other pruning opportunities in the branches above that leave you with branches oriented as close to horizontal as possible. Roughly, you'll be trying to establish a triangular shaped profile, using the horizontal branches, and with the apex of the triangle as close as possible to directly above where the plant exits the soil. You can cut off a LOT right now ..... and that will really make the tree back-bud, which in turn will provide you with more and finer pruning opportunities that will REALLY help you get to the point you're working on FINE refinement instead of establishing rough structure. You really do have a tree with lots of potential to be a very attractive specimen. Where do you live? Al...See MoreFicus Benjamina: entire branches are drying out and dying
Comments (2)Have you repotted the fig. The roots grow quickly and fill the pot. Also if it is standing in water in the bottom of the pot that can cause root rot. Check for scale also. they are small brown round spots in corners of branches. They suck and kill. Penny...See Morehelp! dying citrus?!-- lost leaves + browning branches
Comments (21)John, Jean, Mike, Monica, Pip313: Thank you so much for your comments, sincere suggestions, and for not being judgemental (even in the face of 2C fertilizer & 1:0 isopropyl alcohol). This may have been a disaster, but your support really does make me want to not give up on being a gardener/parent of a happy citrus tree. J I’ve learned many lessons, many I’m sure seem like “gardening for kindergarteners”, but I’m hopeful that I can do better next time with all that I’ve learned + can learn before spring comes. J Can you recommend any great citrus guides/books for me to read this winter? Mike, I had already cut below the graft line when I received your last message. I was feeling so horrible that I really wanted to do whatever I could as quickly as possible (obviously not very rational…) ~ Overall, I think it might be better for my sanity to let Mandy (since she was a mandarin tree) RIP, and try again in the spring, with ideal weather, ideal soil, drainage, no scale, happy sunlight, etc...and having read up on growing citrus. Although I highly respect the lengths you’ll go to save a tree!! Would you recommend using fir bark or pine bark mulch instead of a mix potting soil, perlite + bark chips? Also, what space heaters do you recommend? (how much heat, how close to the plant, etc.?) – I’m considering if, because of my less than ideal living situation (SE & more east than south) that a 365 indoor life with controlled conditions might be more successful... Again, thank you all so much. I really appreciate your help. In honor of Mandy, I’m posting a picture from Oct 21st, when she at least seemed happy and was scale-free (although perhaps you experts can see some tall-tell signs...I'm sure she was over-fertilized since May - Welp!) Best, Kate....See Morejennykaye
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojennykaye
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojojosplants
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojojosplants
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a