Fiddle Leaf Fig Emergency (Ficus Lyrata)
candyspan
9 years ago
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Comments (7)
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agocandyspan
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Ficus lyrata fiddle leaf fig - all leaf drop -HELP
Comments (1)My before and after no leaf current state of my plant. The above post has all my information. Not sure why the post made me split it...See MoreFicus lyrata / fiddle leaf fig leaf peoblem
Comments (1)What did you use for soil when you repotted, and how much new soil did you add (estimation)? Did you fertilize or dose/spray the plant with anything? How is the plant doing now? Al...See MoreFiddle leaf fig pruning for branching success! Ficus lyrata
Comments (2)Look forward to your updates - what a beautiful healthy plant!...See MoreAny Pruning Advice for Ficus Lyrata (Fiddle Leaf Fig)
Comments (14)Hi, Jocelyn. I'm happy to see you came back to share the progress and offer the kind words. Your tree has changed quite a bit from the first images you posted - strong work! "...... now branches A and B are growing a lot faster than the others bc they are closer to the sunlight which is a skylight. Branch D is moderate grower, E and F are toward the wall and not growing much - I think A and B may be shading them. Branch C has no leaves anymore. It used to have a couple but they fell off. That branch is totally shaded. My question is how many branches should I prune? All of them or only A and B, the big growers? Do I prune all the way down to two leaves again? Also, when I prune, is there a direction or exact placement of the cut I should do to encourage branching in one direction vs another? Just trying to figure out how to prevent shading of other branches...but maybe that’s due to the sunlight direction? And would you just cut off Branch C since there are no leaves, and if so, where do I make the cut? I'll try to go through and answer in the order your questions were asked, though I'm sure I'll get overzealous about one question and in expanding on it I'll likely answer other of your questions. I guess that's why the phrase "see above" was coined. As far as how many branches should be pruned, I think all that are growing strongly need pruning to force energy to the weaker branches. The branches growing moderately should be at least pinched (tip pruned to stop extension and force hack-budding. I would prune everything back in bounds.To establish where the boundary is, imagine a giant soup bowl, upside down, and settled over the trunk. Anything sticking out beyond that outline should be cut back to the outline, more specifically, to the leaf that is closest TO the outline w/o extending beyond it. This should produce back-budding in at least the 2 leaves closest to the cut. If the distal leaf heads in the wrong direction, which would be the direction where it will receive less light, you can cut back to the next proximal leaf (1 leaf closer to the trunk). If it was my tree, I would have no problem doing the following: Prune back to the outline as described above, then tip-prune every branch you didn't need to prune to keep it in bounds. Then, remove every leaf on the tree except the last (most distal) leaf on each branch and move the tree outdoors as soon as temps allow. Give it a week in dappled or open shade, then move it where it receives sun for a half day for a week before moving into full sun. This strategy will force lots of back-budding - just be careful not to over-water because transpirational water loss (due to reduction of the canopy) will decrease significantly. If you aren't using Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 regularly, the plant will show its appreciation if you do. If we didn't discuss that previously, we can do that. Oh - keep after the pinching, too. You can see by now, I would guess, how much difference pinching can make. Al...See Moretapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agocandyspan
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agoLaura90
9 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)