Branch pruning, Ficus Benjamina
Hello all - after plenty of solid advice I'm happy to report on the good health of my ficus. Got rid of a nasty scale problem, undertook root pruning, and potted-up in Al's gritty mix. A year later, what a difference!
Now that the tree is healthy and happy I want to work on the shape - the previous owner must have had it close to a wall as it's narrow in depth yet wide when turned 90ú. There are a few branches in this wide area that are thick very dominant. I would like to cut these branches back hard and trim a bit from the top 1/3 to promote growth lower in the tree.
I have no idea where to cut these thick branches (marked A in photo). Seems the more I read the more confusing the matter is. I don't want to whack into the trunk at this juncture. I'm including a quote from Al (to andersons), as it seems to describe what I'm thinking of doing (esp the part about strong middle branches).
Somehow the idea of choosing a new leader is difficult to visualize, which is advice received last year. I'd just like to balance the tree better, from 2D to 3D if that makes sense. Photos included to hopefully illustrate situation. Thanks!
'I think you misunderstood about the pruning of the upper part of the tree. That part will always grow strongest, and I wasn't very clear about the 'cutting back to 2 leaves' part. I meant to remove half the branching in the upper 1/3 of the canopy, then reduce the remaining branching (in the upper 1/3 of the canopy) to 2 leaves per branch. The rest of the branches should be left as is unless there are very strong branches in the middle third, in which case you should reduce only those branches & leave the weaker branches untouched for now. If you want to remove lower branches after the tree recovers - feel free. BTW - when pruning containerized trees (as opposed to current practice for trees in the landscape), flush cuts are ok, and sealing them with waterproof wood glue or even Vaseline to keep the cambium from dying back and increasing the wound size speeds healing of major pruning cuts markedly. Also - your cuts will tend to bleed latex, but a quick spritz at the cut site with tap water half a minute after pruning will stop the oozing.
Here is a link that might be useful: Ficus album
This post was edited by Randy_ on Thu, Jul 4, 13 at 1:38
Comments (10)
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years ago
Randy_
10 years agoHi Al and thanks for such a detailed response - it's helping to start to make sense finally. I like to get the picture in my head as best I can first - this direction is just what I was looking for.
Did a little photoshop as pre-plan to get it in my eyes and will go over your details again for sure another time or two. Think I'm gonna have to do the preliminary clean up before the top part of "A" portion becomes clear, but it seems a lot of that of will go. The key words apex, triangle, and horizontal definitely are informative. Appreciate the encouragement to be bold with it.
I'm in Boston btw, Brookline to be precise. Again, many thanks:-)
This post was edited by Randy_ on Thu, Jul 4, 13 at 1:33
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Pruning ficus lyrata to branch?
Comments (89)I don't know if you're willing to sacrifice appearance for a year or so in order to make sure the tree's structure is something you can build on, but here's what I wold do. I think I'm seeing a node on the natural branch toward the top of the tree where a leaf has been shed. If that is true, I would prune that upper branch back to 1 leaf, and cut that leaf in half against venation (the veins in the leaf). The reason is, it's a very good thing to have a branch growing from the first 2 nodes immediately distal to the trunk or lower order branch. For reference, the trunk or main stem of a plant is considered to be the first order branch. A branch growing from the trunk/stem is a second order branch. Second order branches give rise to the third, ad infinitum. The reason it's a very good thing to have a branch growing from the first 2 nodes immediately distal to the trunk or lower order branch is because it will produce a highly refined tree, one with leaves and branch density as compact and dense as can possibly be achieved by way of pruning/pinching practices. Not to worry about cutting the most distal leaf (and the only leaf) leaf on the branch half. It will not remain as part of the composition. A new branch will form in the axil of that leaf. When the first leaf on the new branch is starting to unfurl, remove the half leaf. Also, it looks like there is a leaf at the base of that branch. That leaf should be removed now; or, if you think it enhances the tree's appearance, remove it when the new branch starts growing where there is now only a leaf/bundle scar. There are dormant buds immediately distal to that scar that will be activated. The reason for cutting the leaf in half is, it further reduces the amount of auxin produced . Auxin is mainly produced in the branch apex (growing tip of the branch) but also in leaves and especially in young leaves. The more you can limit auxin flow in the branch, the more likely back-budding becomes. There are many untapped resources/techniques the hobby grower can take from the art of bonsai and apply to make a huge difference in their plants' vitality and appearance. For an upright tree: Think about how tall you want it to be from the floor, maximum ht.. The lowest branch on the tree should be growing from the trunk at a ht. somewhere between 1/2 - 2/3 of what you expect the tree's o/a ht to be. There are exceptions. Sometimes a low 2nd order branch can serve visually as a branch higher on the tree. Example: In this mother/daughter style maple, the daughter "tree" makes the composition a twin trunk style, but visually it serves as a branch. Your tree has that potential if you want to work toward it, utilizing the low branch. I think your tree is too tall. It looks like it's already close to being maxed out on ht.. I would prune the top back to the first leaf distal to the shrink wrap, and cut that leaf in half. Essentially, a repeat of what you did with the upper branch growing to the right. When the 2 new 2nd order branches occur near the top, they should be trained to about a 45-60* angle off the vertical axis. If you look at a mature tree in nature, you'll see the bottom branches are closer to horizontal with maybe the tips of branches upswept a bit. As you move up the tree, the angle between the second order branches and the trunk gradually decreases. Try ti mimic that for a more attractive tree. Al...See Moreshould i prune this ficus benjamina?
Comments (4)You actually have multiple plants that were micropropagated and started in the same pot. You should decide soon about growing them clump-style or as stand-alones because benjamina's roots quickly approach graft to each other (fuse) and as time goes on you'd likely have to sacrifice some of the plants if you decide to separate. It's not clear what you mean by 'prune'? Did you mean actually prune, or pinch, maybe thin the number of individual plants in the clump? Your plant would be much happier outdoors, btw. Remember to acclimate it to full sun by starting in shade if you decide to move it outdoors. Al...See MoreWhen to prune dead/leafless branches on a ficus benjamina?
Comments (1)This forum is mostly about ficus carica, the edible fig. You may get more responses from the house plant forum....See MoreNeed Help w/ Ficus Benjamina that had Dead Middle Branches
Comments (7)Sounds good. I'm glad the thread I started helped you. Al (Tapla), has incredible knowledge about these trees any many others. If you read thoroughly through that thread where he was offering me advice, you should definitely get a feel for pruning. In the right conditions, these trees grow insanely fast! chop it back a bit and stick it outside in direct sunlight when the weather warms up again next year. Leave it there all summer. You may notice leaves turn white and fall off, but when the new growth comes out, it'll be thicker and fuller than ever. You could have a great looking tree by the end of next summer! when in direct sunlight, you will need to water more often. repot in June and use 5 parts pine bark mulch, 1 part peat and 1 part perlite. Al's gritty mix is also a great option, or so I've read from many. You may need to prune some roots too. Since you've had that tree 9 years, the root system has to be hindering its ability to grow and take up nutrients as the roots are probably all strangling each other at this point. just make sure you don't over water it right now. You could also elevate the pot and add some wicks to help remove some of the perched water in the soil. I've done that and it works wonders. Do you water in sips, or do you water till it starts coming out the drain hole at the bottom? The skewer method works pretty well. Stick it in, it it comes out with dirt sticking to it, the soil is still wet. If it comes out clean / with very little soil sticking to it, it's time to water....See Morestewartsjon
10 years agoIf it was my tree I'd cut everything in the A and B circles off, i.e. in your photoshopped pic, I'd also lop the big branch in circle A off, you could take it back to the point a few inches inside the circle and leave the upward branching stem on, but also prune the outwards spur on that off.
Oh sod it, here's my MS paint effort with red lines where I'd cut. A picture paints a thousand words!
Randy_
10 years agoThanks StewartsJon, indeed it does - Happy 4th all!
Well here's where things stand at the moment. I've stopped to assess things - getting in the ballpark, but I think a little more needs to come off and your areas of suggestion are precisely where I'm mulling about, SJ. Somehow the choices at this juncture have become decidedly less clear though. I've included another set of pics, including another photoshop of where I'm tempted to go.
The thing hanging me up is Al's description of Apex. Is it ok that the apex of this tree is not as centered over the exit from soil as one might like?
It looks pretty good in the first pics I think, but as you circle the tree you can see how the tallest branches jut out a bit from center. With all the Y's in the branches, there's little straight up from the trunk (which I think is interesting as heck yet vexes me as it relates to the subject at hand). Many thanks!
Here is a link that might be useful: Results of pruning
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years agoRandy_
10 years ago
asleep_in_the_garden
10 years ago
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
10 years agogarlicball
7 years ago
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)