I'd be inclined to cut it into 3 pieces and root each one in a citrus tall pot.

Is it a turkey fig? My comments are about those... You could absolutely use the smaller branches as other cuttings. Heck I'd take more than 1 branch since propagating is not guaranteed with any one piece. If you end up with more than you need, give them away or put them at the curb, somebody will want them. Totally agree with Brandon, the bigger cuttings I've tried for fig, the better and faster they grow. The smallest ones rotted, and no luck with just water. A few days in water until you're ready to pot doesn't seem to harm anything. In addition to removing the figs, remove some leaves if it starts to wilt, more shade. Cuttings can't really utilize much sunshine until they grow some roots. Yes, Ken, figs make medium-size trees here, about 15-20 feet tall, apparently infinitely wide. Tell me what you think of how I shaped my Mom's tree below. You can't tell from the pic, but at the time the pic was taken, I had it where you could duck under and stand up everywhere inside the canopy. The kids like to hide & play in there. Unfortunately it's about twice as big (mostly wider) now, many branches are laying on the ground. After we pick the figs later this month, it's getting another heavy pruning.

From what I've seen (never done it myself), you should be able to root larger cuttings (truncheons) of this plant as easily, or maybe more-so, as smaller cuttings. If there is significant new growth at the tips, you may have to prune back to firmer wood. A moisture tent and rooting hormone should improve your odds.

The advantage of large tile is fewer grout lines. But, if you tiler is smart he/she will use a urethane grout that does not get grungy and harbor mold. It also does not need to be re-sealed every few years -- something no one ever actually does, Grout lines make little difference these days since the invention of urethane grout. The disadvantage is that you need a nearly perfectly flat floor that has virtually no deflection. This usually means joists that are closer together (12" o/c is best) and a very stiff sub-floor. If the floor was not heavied-up during its construction to accept the larger tile, I would suggest the smaller format. You will have fewer problems in the future. Whichever tile you choose, make sure your tiler installs a waterproof membrane under the tile and up the walls at least 3" so water cannot reach the MDF sub-floor. Even MDF rated for wet areas will not stand continued wetting for long. If the MDF buckles, you will probably have to re--do the floor.