Yard Long Beans vs. pole bean
diclemeg
14 years ago
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farmerdilla
14 years agoronnywil
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Pole Beans healthy but no beans
Comments (18)I see this is an old thread, but it is a familiar problem for us here in the mid-South where we have extremely hot summers. I was watching the local news recently and a rice farmer was being interviewed and he mentioned that very warm night temps. inhibit fruiting and encourage growth. He said that it isn't so much the daytime high heat days that cause plants to not fruit, but night temps. of 70 F. and above, which is exactly what we have been experiencing here from early June until just a week and a half ago. Finally our pole beans our starting to show pod formation as our night temps have been in the 60's. We have half-runner and Scarlet runner and both have flowers, and have been flowering but not pods. We aren't from this area originally, and no one plants pole beans. No wonder. They plant bush types and plant them early which is the correct way to plant bush type beans - early, whereas pole beans like to be planted later. We like pole beans better as they don't rot like bush types and they taste better (Blue Lake). I am seriously thinking of relocating just because of this problem. We've been here over ten years and were able to pick pole beans three growing seasons. The very hot years we had to wait until very late summer or early fall before our beans, peppers and tomatoes started producing. Not fun gardening. On the other hand, the okra is very happy as well as the yellow squash....See MoreBush vs pole beans for yield
Comments (34)I still grow several bush beans & limas; if bad weather delays planting the pole beans, I might fall back on bush varieties with their shorter DTM's. Recently though, I have been using pole bean transplants as a backup plan - because I am growing most beans for seed. Transplants saved my seed crops of pole beans in 2016 & 2017. A brief departure off topic... "Last year the pole beans (Rattlesnake) were a magnet for Japanese Beetles and both yield and quality suffered as a result. I applied Milky Spore in a wide area in and around the garden late last summer so I'll see if that helps to keep the JB numbers down at all." The JB are just beginning to move into my area; having read others comments about them for many years, I'm obviously not thrilled about that. So far, though, their damage has been minimal, and confined to just certain plants. They have yet to reach my rural garden (just 6 miles to the West) so they don't seem to be spreading too rapidly. They really like soybeans (what doesn't???) so the first beetles appeared there. I use a spray with soap & several other ingredients, it kills them in a couple minutes... and is easier than trying to catch them, they are very elusive. When the soybeans stopped growing, the beetles began attacking the pole beans - but only at the very top of the trellis. They were pretty easy to spot there too; I went out with the spray bottle twice a day, and kept their numbers down. I'm not sure how high their population will become, though, so I may need to try milky spore in the future. Two observations, regarding JB. Trap crops are effective in reducing damage to beans... besides the soybeans, an ornamental mallow (Malva sylvestris) also seemed to attract them. The beetles can be killed on the trap crop. I also observed the beetles in motion... and they seek out locations where other beetles are gathering. In some cases, they were attracted to beetles I had already killed, so they may locate others by scent; so it might be worth trying to bait a trap with a few dead beetles....See MoreWanted; Yard long beans or specialty beans
Comments (1)I may have a few soon. Only had enough to seed save this year. Send me an email....See MoreYard long Pole beans..
Comments (5)Although I grow a lot of yardlong beans, I have never grown those. I would suggest looking at the seeds, to see if they are the same color. Most yardlongs sold in the U.S. have either black or red seeds, and there are multiple varieties in each color. As a rule, the black-seeded varieties I've grown have had short DTM's, and very large yields - but not always the best texture & flavor. Red seeded varieties are usually later, and have firmer, sweeter pods. For spacing, I generally use 12-15" between plants; they will cover a 6' trellis (and beyond!) at that spacing. If your support is shorter than that, crowding them - such as 3-4 every 12" - should stunt the vines into a shorter height....See Morezebraman
14 years agodiclemeg
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14 years agocyrus_gardner
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13 years agozeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin
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6 years agozeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin
6 years ago
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