These are all very interesting. The Cornell information explains a lot. The french site appears to break the pruning methods by rootstock/tree size, but I like the looks of the M106 rootstock type. Still, the others have some interesting features. The lattice look on dwarves is very attractive, but must be terrible work to maintain. I will probably go with pruning towards a vase shape. Other than some fireblight, disease really isn't a problem, although we like to feed birds in the winter and have a lot of english sparrows, house finches, and gold finches. The house finches and sparrows seem to really enjoy digging into the apples. I haven't been able to convince any of the cats to take up residence in the trees, though. Maybe I can hang rubber mice in the trees? Ha! As a side note, these birds seem to enjoy eating the buds off my blue plum trees in the winter. The plum they like to roost in is nearly stripped clean in the spring and has only scattered blossoms, mostly on lower branches. I always have some sunburn on the apples on the south side of the trees but it isn't really a problem and doesn't appear to do any more damage than to hurt the eye-appeal of the apple. I was concerned that maybe there was some production or ease of care advantage with central leader systems that I just couldn't figure out. When trying to maintain a smaller size to a tree that wants to grow, do you periodically take out one of the scaffolds or cut it back severely to spur newer growth lower down (then train one of the new shoots that come out as a replacement scaffold)? Otherwise, it seems that eventually you would end up pruning branches back to roughly the same place every year and have a tree that looks like it is on steroids--big, thick limbs, no smaller fruiting branches?

Scott: I can't find any place on the tree where the limbs are attached where there may have been a graft ... what should I look for ... a 'ring' or something? Others: No, the tree is growing from the initial tree sent (not from the root or bottom).. hasn't died back at all. As for soil, nutrients, etc. the younger dwarf Fuji next to it has bloomed fine & setting a good apple crop this year. And yes, I pruned the ends of the branches back quite a bit late last summer of the '5-in-1'. I'm ashamed to admit I did order this from one of the nurseries people complain about, but not being available locally (a 5-in-1) & fairly cheap, I 'bit'! In the past I have occasionally gotten some decent things (bare root) from them but then again .. my 'fruit-less 5-in-1 and "Pole" apple trees! The tag I have on it says I got it from Burgess Nursery. Of course they say it no longer is under warranty & I need to fertilize, more water, etc, etc. The tree is very healthy ... but then- it has not been stressed by an apple crop either !!!ha A ?Haralson Pole apple from Guerney's in 1991 IS a pole apple but the ?McIntosh Pole apple from Guerney's is the one that is tall & very wide -NOT a pole apple for sure! We have paid a lot for trees from Sandy Bar & Van Wel Nurseries & got great trees & they both were wonderful companies to deal with (wanted some of the dwarf varieties of Cameo apple, Weeping Santa Rosa plum that were hard to find)so I guess again: you get what you pay for! Now to find the chain saw & cut some nice apple wood to dry for the fireplace next winter :(

Laurel: Summer pruning is definately the way to go. Most of my apple trees (33 of them) are on semi-dwarf rootstocks, but the more vigorous varieties would be out of control if I dormant pruned every season. Ideal size for an apple tree is under 15 feet tall, so you can reach the top from an orchard ladder for thinning and pruning, and also reach the entire tree should it be necessary to spray for insects or diseases. Standard trees of the size you apparently have are a little different ballgame, and you may never be able to get them down to the ideal size, but you can still make a lot of progress. I begin summer pruning in about mid-July, and continue right into September. When there is regrowth, it very frequently produces fruiting spurs which makes the tree more productive for its size. This year I am getting some regrowth in spite of a very dry summer, and some of the new sites are blooming due to the stress. Stress on an apple tree is normally a good thing, that increases its productivity, and I expect all those new blossom spurs to rebloom again next spring. Without being able to see your trees, it is a little hard to say what you will need, but I get by nicely even with hardwood limbs of 4-5 inches using a Corona Razor Tooth Saw. These are usually sold at bigbox stores like Lowes and Home Despot. They cut very quickly and stay sharp a long time, but cannot be resharpened practically, so I get a new one about every 3 years. Price is around $20. The motorized models are fast, but more complicated and a little more dangerous to use, as well are requiring gas, oil, and all that comes with a motorized tool. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

MB, no, not quite. Traditionally major peach pruning is done either while the tree is dormant, or to reduce the threat of canker, at first growth in spring. When establishing the tree, dormant or delayed dormant pruning is less dwarfing than substantial summer pruning. Summer training of young trees generally consists of pinching tender young growth or rubbing off buds to guide the trees development. Once a tree is established, it is fine to cut large limbs in summer but the most useful aspect of summer pruning is to remove excessively vigorous uprights and allow light down onto the new wood that will bear peaches the following year. That is, unless you are trying to keep mature trees small such as when more than one tree is planted in a planting hole or spacing is tight. If this is the case pruning can be performed two or three times during the growing season to keep trees in bounds.