Thanks, guys! I did go ahead and pull some. They were small, but tasted great! Last time I tried to grow radishes, the roots didn't do anything. Later I found out that you need to thin them early. So I feel moderately successful this time. I'm curious to see what the next ones do. I planted another crop that is a couple of weeks old, and I just planted a third crop (I think it will stay cool enough). Hope all goes well! =P I'm growing lots of new things this year--spinach, lettuce, chard, broccoli, kale... I had none of that the last two years. I grew spinach in a pot once, and someone gave me a potted lettuce once, but that's it. This is my third garden (very small garden, more like a hobby sampler, LOL!)

It takes me more than a year, usually two, to use up a packet of broccoli or cabbage seeds, so I can only try so many updated varieties. Gypsy broccoli is fast and makes big heads. I think I like it better than Diplomat, the packet I'm working through now, which is also the variety many local organic growers are using. I've done well with small, fast cabbages like Pixie, Gonzales, Caraflex (pointed) and Alcosa (savoy). No favorites on B sprouts. The top hybrids haven't been very impressive, so I'm trying OP Catskill this year and planning to fertilize the heck out of it. B sprouts grow into huge 3-foot plants, and I don't see how they can do that in 60 days. When days are getting shorter in fall, you should add 21 days to the estimated maturity time for veg varieties except leafy greens anyway. Sunshine, I direct seed the rutabagas, carrots and leafy greens, and start all the others in containers. To get the seeds up in hot summer soil, I often cover straight rows with boards held aloft with bricks. With broadcast beds I cover wire hoops with an old sheet, secured with clothespins, to gentle down the sun. In dry years I've looped soaker hoses into squiggles and circles and planted direct-seeded crops in the drip line.

Eggplants will lose their sheen at the point where they begin to develop seeds. They can be any size at this point. I find picking at this point is when the fruit is as large as it is going to get and still have a good flavor. Picking at an earlier stage is surely an option and does provide a better product.

Not every lavender plant produces seeds, and some produce seeds that are quite difficult to separate out of the pods. If you are growing the Intermedia lavenders (Grosso, Provence, etc) they do NOT produce any seed whatsoever. The English lavenders do produce seeds (Hidcote, Lady, Munstead, Jean Davis). You will be able to see the pods crack open on the top, that is when the seed is ripe and you may harvest. Lady is probably the easiest to gather seed from, but it is also a small plant so it doesn't sound like that is the variety you have. You have me quite curious as to what sort of project you are planning that requires lavender seed as opposed to the lavender buds.