That is a tragic story, indeed! I have done this very procedure many times, so have courage. You can go about this two primary ways: the first is simply to repot the entire tree; the second is to cut off the healthy top and root it, and also repot and hope the trunk and rootmass survive. I think it is imperative that you use a free-draining potting mix. I use bark, perlite, lava rock, and just a little potting mix as a binder/moisture retentive ingredient. And when I say "a little potting mix," I mean less than 10% of the overall mix. If you can't mix your own, I recommend a fine-grade Orchid Mix, to which you will probably add some coarse Perlite. Repot keeping the roots moist at all times, thoroughly water and saturate the new mix when done, and place the tree in outdoor shade if available - no direct sun. Keep the mix uniformly moist with light waterings for at least a week after repotting. You can either repot the tree first, and the cut the top off....or you can cut the top off and repot the tree all at once. It's a bit of a gamble, as I don't know the vitality of the tree, but I have confidence from repeated experience that the top will root (if it is healthy as you describe). I place the cut top in a vase/jar of water, and I wait for white root primordia to appear. As soon as they appear, I transfer the cutting into a container of the same moist, free-draining mix, and I keep it moist while the cutting continues to root. I use #1 nursery containers.

Louis will sort things out on his own, because that's what plants do. Your job is to make sure you're not over-watering, which would be very easy to do with most of the foliage having already been shed. Use a wooden dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener as a 'tell'. Stick it deep into the pot and don't water until it comes out dry or very nearly dry. This will be an important part of recovery. After it starts growing again, flush the soil thoroughly by slowly pouring room temperature water equal to at least 10X the volume of the pot the plant is in through the soil, then tip the plant at a 45* angle until it stops draining. Fertilize at a full recommended dose of an appropriate fertilizer (ask if you're curious) and tip the pot again until it stops draining. I think you'll find this to be of value. Al

They don't mind having their roots disturbed, so feel free to repot it whenever necessary. I grow mine outside and a very turbulent thunderstorm rolled through last week knocking it over and spilling its soil all over the place. So I had to repot it all over again and it didn't phase it one bit. As for the soil mix, I use the Miracle Gro brand soil for cacti and succulents. I don't even add anything to it, either, and my money tree grows like a weed.

@ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5 - No I didn't re-pot, should I re-pot it? I'm not really sure how I would go about doing that. I know there's a few guides online, but would you be able to point me to a reliable one please? I've moved it back to it's corner where it get some light from the window. I'll leave it there and stop taking it for walkies lol. I think I misinterpreted the plant being stressed (I didn't even know plants could get stressed) as it needing sunlight or water. I bought from IKEA so it's probably not used to direct outdoor sunlight. They had a plastic bag over the branches and leaves so the leaves were already wrinkled when I bought it. @floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK - I live in York, I'll keep it indoors until mid May and take it out doors then. By being able to keep it outside until September or October, do you mean I should keep the plant indoors again once the temperature starts to drop? I thought the holes were was just from physical damage, but you watch enough YouTube videos and read enough articles online and you start getting it in your head that it's some sort of pest problem or disease.