There may not be a one size fits all regimen, but there IS a one size fits 99.9% regimen which has proven to bear fruit for a LOT of growers. I probably have about 300 plants covering at least 200 species and I don't know how many genera - maybe 125 to150. All those plants are treated exactly the same, except for allowances that a little more than half of them snooze the winter away, dormant, in a cold garage where they need no care other than the snow I toss on top of them occasionally through the winter so roots don't dry out. The houseplants and succulents grow under the same lights, get watered ON A SCHEDULE at the same time, get fertilized with the same fertilizer, and manage to remain in excellent health, year after year. It's true that when all you have is natural light, plants will need to be sited in consideration of their light preferences, and temperatures are a consideration, but the portion of the cultural conditions that are provided by the grower that are most apt to spawn trouble will relate to a triangle formed by soil choice, watering habits, and proper nutrition. These three factors are so intimately related that it's difficult to discuss one without including the others unless you're growing in a soil that allows you to water correctly. The idea that different plants require different treatment (other than light and temps) comes largely from the fact that some plants are better able to tolerate adversity. 'Tolerate' somehow translated to 'appreciate', and soon people were believing some plants LIKED soils wetter than other plants. Most of the plants you'll grow perform best when their soils are barely damp - not wet, and never soggy. If you're interested, read the link I left below. It will help you avoid most of the frustration suffered by people new to the growing experience if you put it to practical use. Al Here is a link that might be useful: More here

There is no difference between stem tissue and branch tissue. They are the same & equally likely (or unlikely) to root. I also think trying them directly in the ground where you live will be very unlikely to yield results. Besides, the plant will prefer full sun and you'll not likely be able to root them in full sun, so you'd need to shade them or move them if the did happen to take. You should use a very coarse and sterile mix for rooting. Perlite, Turface, a combination of perlite and Turface, or any combination of chopped sphagnum moss (not peat moss - chop it in a blender or food processor) and either/both of the other two ingredients is particularly effective. If you use the coarse ingredients, soil volume is of no concern and a greater volume is easier to keep damp (but not wet). A spot with open shade is best (in shade but on the north side of a building or fence with open sky above). DO NOT fertilize cuttings until well after they've struck. Fertilizer inhibits water uptake (which is critically important to cuttings) and slows root initiation. Al

Yes, we need to know what types of plants you have in order to help.:) I have overwintered a whiskey barrel in the past. I cut the hardy plants back and dropped them in the bottom. Get yourself a completely submersible titanium aquarium heater (don't use the glass ones!) rated for the number of gallons of the barrel. Stick it in the barrel and plug it in. It will keep the barrel from freezing. It won't heat it up warm but it will keep it warm enough to prevent freezing.

Looks like bird of paradise to me. Where are you located? Are you growing it inside or outdoors? Its tropical, but very easy to grow. I have a dwarf bird of paradise I grow outside in Phoenix, it gets bright shade to part sun, loves the heat, and is pretty frost tolerant. Mine is in a fairly protected area, but has survived cold temps that froze my natal plums down to the ground.They like plenty of water, but can tolerate fairly low water once established, and like regular fertilizing.