Hi Calliope, I know what you mean, but those plants that can be planted before frost date usually can take frost easily. My nasturtiums, e.g. went through a few snow falls last year with their beautiful leaves and flowers before they finally yielded. I agree that one must know his area well and know how to estimate (though we cannot be 100% accurate). For some annuals, I wait 2 weeks after our formal frost dates, then check the forecast for the next 10 days, and if it looks good I can plant them. For tender annuals, I might wait a little longer or start indoor. For half-hardy or hardy annuals, I can start earlier.

It would be nice if some others would post some pics and updates on their seedling "stuff". I will post some pics of some other seedling trees I have growing here. I have lots of space so there are various seedlings of peach, plum apricot, apple etc. A good number produce fantastic fruit while others not so fantastic, but in any event they have proven to be hardy here so they get to stay:) I encourage anyone with the room and patience to grow some seed out.....you may stumble on a real gem! I posted a link of a thread from a couple of years ago. They produced some fantastic fruit again last year and hoping for some again this year. It was a real test winter this year, really long cold then big warm up then really cold .......still really cold now! http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fruit/msg0820041119336.html

Nope, not in your location (assuming you aren't up in the mountains) you still have time to get seedlings in the ground by first week in Sept. and that gives you 90+ days. Use some short DTM varieties. Alternative - if you have plants now use cuttings from them. All explained over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here. Dave

I often start perennial and biannual seed in July. Right now I have shasta daisy, sweet william, foxgloves, painted daisy already germinated and am waiting on delphinium, columbine, salvia and sage to get started. I find it much easier to get them started outside when the soil is already warm and the temps make germination faster. If you start seed in July you can expect the plants to flower the following year. Some perennial and biannual seeds are very easy and some are hard. I follow directions on back of packet as far as if the seed needs to be covered or needs light and some need to be frozen for a while, set them on wet miracle grow potting mix, water well, but gently and put in a shady place until germination starts and then I move them to an area that gets a few hours of morning sun a day. Once their first set of true leaves is out I will move them into a place that gets 4 or 5 hours of morning sun. When their second set of leaves shows up the seedlings will be moved to either a nursery bed in my veg garden or for some into their permanent spot right away. The bulk will go to the veg garden and those I might cover with shade cloth if it is very hot (it will be in Arkansas in August). The hardest thing is to keep the soil moist while germination is going on and when they are vey small. Sometimes I have a complete failure, but for some like shasta, sweet william, foxgloves, painted daisy, gillardia they are so easy you will get dozens of plants. Almost always I get at least a few. Well worth the couple of bucks the packet of seed costs. Hope this helps.