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Vegetable Gardening

Once you get powdery mildew, how do fix the soil for next?

11 years ago

So my Zukes got powdery mildew heavily. I pulled off many leaves and treated with neem oil. It's a bit better but still there. Now I'm noticing it starting on my tomato plants which currently have lots of fruit waiting to ripen. I'll treat those with neem oil too, but what do do when this planting is over and it's time to start new plants? Won't the fungus still be in the soil for next time?

Comments (7)

jean001a
11 years ago
The fungus isn't in the soil. It will survive on plant debris.
helenov
11 years ago
My understanding is that powdery mildew is the "common cold" for plants. Your plants are probably getting it because they're stressed for some reason. I'd check that the plants are getting the right amount of water, the soil has the nutrients they need, and there's nothing else causing them to be stressed.
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squash had wilt & powdery mildew, how to prepare for next year?
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Homebody, your suspicion about bacterial wilt is probably correct, if you have cucumber beetle problems. You should also inspect the stem of any dying squash vines, to see if squash vine borers are responsible. If you find their larvae, or the holes left by them, then prevention next year is your best hope for success. And if your "white aphid looking creatures" look like this, then you should try to kill them before they reach adulthood. The symptoms of squash bug infestation can appear very much like bacterial wilt. Butternut squashes (Cucurbita moschata) are more resistant to beetles & borers than C. pepo (pumpkins & summer squashes) and C. maxima (buttercup, hubbard, banana squash). I quit growing zucchini for that reason, and now grow Tromboncino (a butternut relative) instead. It has few problems... but it does take up a bit of space, unless trellised. You can protect young squash plants with floating row cover, until they either blossom, or outgrow it. This gives the plants time to build up strength, so they have a fighting chance. For me, this prevents SVB, and by delaying the start of attack, reduces the population of cucumber beetles & squash bugs. I could not grow most winter squash successfully without the use of row covers - I highly recommend their use. The use of nylons or some other impenetrable wrap (around the base of the squash stem) can prevent the SVB moth from laying their eggs there. Also, try to grow squash varieties that root at the nodes; bury the stems early, to encourage early rooting... this will help the plants to survive, if SVB does kill the main stem. The last thing that you should do (after killing the squash bug nymphs) is to eliminate any pests that might otherwise over-winter. SVB pupae lay dormant underground, so a Fall tilling will kill many of them. Cleaning up any debris in or near the garden will help to reduce the population of squash bugs the following year.
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g'day slashy, manage is about the best way to treat it, that management can start with the planting conditions and position as well ie.,. in well drained medium and in full sune with plenty of aur movement breezes etc. it also starts with your watering regime wetting the foliage at watering time makes for ideal p/m conditions as does watering too later in the day so that any moisture on the plant can dry off before nightfall. water on the root zones only. my zuce's and similar can get some p/m toward the end of their life when they are at a low ebb, suppose like us that is to be expected, so good healthy soil will mean a good healthy plant for as long as possible, the health of the soil comes from the trace elements and all we can do in that department is to feed the soil encourage earth worms (not desirable in pots/containers) and soil oraganisms. as said it is an air borne thing that needs good moist conditions to thrive, try the milk spray (we have a recipe on our site), ther is a product out all organic that helps with the plants trace elements, you would need to e/mail me for the link (commercial links not allowed here), that could help a lot with container plants? i compost all my plants p/m or not once it is covered (in our case we just break the plant up and mulch it right where it stood cover it well with mulch and it breaks down in a couple of weeks or so. we continually feed our soil by using green type mulches ie.,. sugar cane mulch and spoilt pasture grass/lucerne mulch, as well we feed all our rottable kitchen scraps to the gardens so the worms and bacteria can process it right where the plants need it. it amy help to remove affected leaves as they occur? len Here is a link that might be useful: len's garden page
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I've had a terrible time here in L.A.- zone 10- with powdery mildew - this time it got my squash, cucumbers, tomatoes and bush beans; now it's working on my pumpkins. I have tried a bunch of things - milk, baking soda and a little detergent, etc.- but they seem not to work. Realize I probably water too late in the day and put manure on at the wrong time...but still! Most sites states that "treating the soil" is not useful, but one site says to cover with clear plastic and let it sit for 4-6 weeks - longer if it's rainy. Seems like a long time to wait - but I'd do anything to fix this problem! Can anyone help? Another thing - I'm from the South and can't help but notice how much better plants like melons, okra, summer squashes do there. I'd attribute this to it nearly always dropping down to the 50's and 60's at night, instead of staying hot. Am I the only one that thinks this?
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To Ken_adrian: Thanks for the advice, but I am not one to give up on a plant because I had a problem with it for a little while during 1 season. I have dealt with issues with dahlias as well from time to time, like slugs, spider mites and tree hoppers, but I stiIl grow them. I think some things are worth a little extra effort, and its really not that much more effort anyway to be honest. I grew the same variety of zinnias about 2 years prior to last year's powdery mildew, and at that time I had more zinnias in a more shaded area that tended to hold moisture/humidity moreso than this new area does, yet I didnt have any problem with powdery mildew at that time. I dont mind having to take 10-15 minutes 2-3 times a season mixing up some spray solution and coating the plants with a safe, relatively non-toxic spray that helps prevent fungus if it means having 5-6 foot tall flowering plants that continuously flower from June til early November. I will also try to keep them more ventilated. Maybe they were too close last year. But we also had a generally wet first half of summer.
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digdirt2
11 years ago
Agree with Jean - it isn't a soil borne fungus and spores are often airborne. The fungi that cause PM all require live plant tissue to over-winter.

Neem is a preventative fungicide, not an eradication fungicide, so once the disease it there it does no good.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: IPM - Powdery Mildew Causes and Controls
Suzy
Original Author
11 years ago
Dave, this link says that neem oil helps to eradicate once the plant is infected.
philothea
11 years ago
I know the answer to this!!!! I am soooo excited!!!!!

:D :D :D

Ok, milk.

You want to dilute the milk so it is about 10-20% of what you have, definitely less than 30% or it will make something else bad that you don't want to happen happen, and spray it on every week or two (don't do it too often or the plants will be unhappy), and this will prevent a lot of powdery mildew. It is more of a preventative measure but you can try it if you see just a little, well, you might as well try it when you see a lot, but it's better to start before you see it at all.

This is probably the only answer I will ever know, thank you so much :D
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
11 years ago
That is correct, srg215. Neem has curative properties, too.

Helen, it's very important to remember that some plants are simply, by their very genetic code, susceptible and prone to powdery mildew infection. It's a good idea for us to have a little list of those plants in our minds and if we can't avoid bring them into the garden in the first place, be prepared to take necessary preventative actions. Good horticultural habits go a long way in reducing PM outbreaks and their duration. But even an extremely healthy human will come down with the common cold....no matter what. ;-)
RpR_
11 years ago
I use Serenade works like a charm.
Use double dosage and literall douse the area with a pail or large sprinkling can.

Stops it in its tracks.

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