Ok, murky gave some great info, but I'm just going to start fresh with my answer because I think it's easier that way. First off, just to review, raspberry canes are biennial and the crown and roots are perennial. The canes the emerge from the ground in the spring and grow are called primocanes. In primocane-fruiting varieties, the primocanes will flower and bear fruit in the late-summer and fall of the year (thus the term fall-fruiting). You can manage a primocane-fruiting variety to produce both a spring and fall crop. To do so, you'll want to remove all floricanes after they fruit and die, and prune off the portion of the primocane that fruited in the fall. The next spring, the portion of the cane that didn't fruit in the fall will fruit. If you want just the fall primocane crop, you can simply mow off all of the canes during the winter. In floricane-fruiting varieties, the primocanes remain vegetative all year, and go dormant in the winter. In the spring, these canes, now called floricanes flower and bear fruit (thus the term spring-fruiting). After fruiting, the floricanes die and should be pruned out. This can be done anytime after fruiting but before new growth begins in the spring. You can also prune the primocanes during the first, non-fruiting growing season to encourage lateral development and increased fruiting the followoing year. I'm not sure why the canes that fruited for you this year are sprouting some new growth. This may be from secondary buds, but whatever it is, I'm sure it won't produce any fruit before frost, and won't survive the winter. I'd just go ahead and prune out the dead canes. I really think what you have is a floricane fruiting variety, because if you had a primocane fruiting variety you'd have flowers and fruit right now.

Fun new pics and posts all, keep them coming. March is a great time of year in the garden here isn't it? Love it! "Stuffed" is the right word to describe my patio, dusti, LOL! Guilty as charged. :) Good luck with the clivia and Schlumergera outside. Mine always got very cranky by late summer so I kept them inside for summer now. Keep us posted and post lots of pics! I've tried Aeonium nobilis a few times before, Cesar, and mine always failed (died) in late summer due to the heat. I have great success with Aeonium arboreum (the common, popular types and hybrids) but my nobilis always died on me. I keep all of my aeonium plants very dry in summer when they're in a heat induced semi dormancy (and they look awful, hah!), but the arboreum types revive in autumn and then I give them more water. Good luck with yours--do keep us posted! Great looking tomato plants, timber. Nice and vigorous! Just for fun here are some aloe blooms open right now. I purchased the plant without a label quite a few years ago. It's one of my favorite aloes so I have planted a dozen or two of its offspring (from pups/offsets) all over the garden. Great peachy/apricot color and branched bloom stalk: And here's something NOT looking great, lol, tatty pomegranate foliage which has been visited by leaf cutter bees, LOL. They do this every spring and I don't really mind as the plant eventually outgrows it. Happy gardening all! Grant

Veronica, I feed my rabbits an alfalfa pellet based diet and a high end one at that. Alfalfa is the #1 ingredient in the bag. I go through about 50-60 lbs of pellets a week. The rabbits also are free fed quality grass hay from our farm in PA, I get a trailer load a year as well as natural foods from the garden and I feed some comfrey and Bidens Alba which is a local plentiful weed. The rabbits love the Bidens Alba, I probably feed 100 lbs of it a week and it is edible by us humans as well. The alfalfa could be the reason the manure is so rich but unlike the alfalfa pellets you can dump the fresh rabbit manure on the garden with no worries of burning. I don't put the manure on fresh as after it drops through the wire it goes in to containers where black soldier fly larvae consume the waste and what goes to the garden is basically their manure. It comes out as a rather odd soil like substance, kind of dry and very crumbly. I give it to all the plants, well most all the plants except the blueberries (it is too alkaline). In my opinion though the rabbits break the food down and the end result (pun intended) is better than just using the alfalfa. I guess an easy way to find out would be to use just alfalfa pellets on some plants and the manure on the others. I know some people sell the rabbit manure for absolutely silly prices but it can be bought cheaply and even acquired for free as a lot of people have pet rabbits. Great idea on the new beds. For what it is worth I think most of the trouble people have here is simply due to the poor soil. The plants get stressed because of the conditions be they soil or temps or humidity. Once you hit that tipping point of survival the game is over. I can't control the temperature and I can't control the humidity so I concentrate on building the soil. If the time and effort is taken to first build the soil and feed it the garden grows itself and makes you look like you know what you are doing. I was talking to Silvia about this and I was telling her I get no nematode damage at all on my plants roots, not even a little. I guess they do not like the rabbit manure at all.

I like the "Just Popping in" bit. Your MIL is one lucky lady to have a DIL like you!!