Extremely nice. Not a painting expert but a brownish back ground with green hues for the leaves.
Paws

Laura, I don't want to repeat myself, but your work is amazing! I loved your strong colors. I don't know if you've seen that posting about Little & Lewis open house, I bumped it up, it is around your posting now. Go to the end of it, Deb made fantastic photos. Nobody should be ashamed to get inspirations from them.

I can't wait to see your painted sphere!
Andrea

Dena, Thanks for the reminder! I have been so busy celebrating the success (so far) of my first sphere that I forgot to water it and cover it back up. When I read your message after dark, I ran outside. It is now sprayed and plastic-covered and hopefully ok. I live in the southwest tip of Indiana on the Ohio River. We have suana-like humidity right now but probably that doesn't count for concrete curing!

Paws, those colors sound great!

Kobold, I had missed all those terrific Little and Lewis photos! Thanks so much for the bump.
Laura

I wonder if the plastic screening material glass shops use to replace broken wire screens would work in lieu of the mesh you found. I don't think it's made of fiberglass but is very flexible and I think one could readily buy it at a glass shop. I have a small piece (1'x 2') that I could try if I were to try a sphere. Glad you posted your success here, Laura. Sharing is what this forum is all about.

Wonderful sphere Laura. Looks to be a winner. Thanks for posting the pics too. I have to get some of that Quickwall and give it a try myself. Keep up the 'sperimenting !!

Kudos from the Great White North!Nice piece.Gives rise to all sorts of possibilities with the tape and combos that you used.Not only spheres but bowls(fountain bases) and other ideas.Sure would help me and I'm sure others if you could confirm that the mesh is fibreglass,and what Quickwall contains.Like so many others on this forum,we don't live close to HD or specialty stores.Fibreglass mesh(and if you could provide a photo of a piece would be a great deal of help,thanks)is fairly common here,and probably anywhere there are boats,but not Quickwall.Do you have perhaps a manufacturer?
Thanks for your time.And,just a note:if you are concerned about the thinness of the piece,add more concrete,or tufa.Easy,eh?
Cheers from here

Your sphere is amazing, Laura!
I can offer no painting advice but I look forward to seeing the end result.
As for fiberglass and cement The stucco mesh is alkali resistant. Typical fiberglass cloth or mesh is not. Alkali resistance may or may not be important to you. It depends on whether or not the piece is exposed to the weather and the desired longevity of the piece. If the glass is not protected from alkalis in a piece that regularly gets wet, the surface of the glass will gel and expand resulting in spalling. It is analogous to spalling caused by rusting rebar. Both happen over many years. If the piece is indoors, the glass neednÂt be protected from alkali contact as the process requires water.
The fiberglass stucco mesh is commonly referred to as scrim around here. It is coated with some sort of plastic resin to provide a barrier or resistance to the cementÂs alkalis. It is used in the pseudo-stucco process called DRY-VIT or EIFS. Mesh drywall tape is the same thing on a smaller scale. I am unsure whether or not it is alkali resistant though.
You can probably find the mesh locally at a masonry supply store. You can order single rolls from this place: Mesh Depot (Not a plug. I have never dealt with them and know nothing about their customer service. I havenÂt done any comparison shopping either. You may find a better deal elsewhere.)
Cheers.

Quikwall is made by Quikrete
None of my suppliers carry Quikrete at all.
If there is a equivalent product in BC I haven't found it YET.
These companies are pretty secretive about their blends.
I'm thinking IMASCO Greatwall which can be bought here in BC is very similiar but can't find any specs.
It appears to be more of scratch coat than finishing product. I'm picking up a bag tommorow.

I'm amazed at how spherical you got it. Mine always come out a bit lumpy and lopsided..."organic" looking.

Beautifully done.

Got some poop on the mesh from Pacific West Systems Supply Ltd(604-293-1741)in Burnaby,BC(and other locations).This store simply calls it 'mesh"!It comes in 9 inch and 38 inch rolls,selling for about 38 bucks for the smaller roll and about 150 for the larger roll.The smaller roll(and would probably suit our addiction well)is 150 ft long.He confirms that it looks like fibreglass.
I'm going to try it for some of our thin-walled pieces that I'm still designing.It never ends,does it?Just like other addictions;course,we see results,eh?
Cheers from here

I phoned Quikrete's toll-free number and asked about suppliers of Quikwall in Ontario. I was given the phone number of a company in Galt, Ontario. I am still waiting for them to return my call but apparently I'm hot on da trail now! lol

Marly

In Ontario
http://www.forwell.net/company.html
QUIKRETE® of Ontario/Forwell Materials, Inc.
Phone: (519) 621-3093
Address: 32 Forwell Road
PO Box 1146
Kitchener, ON Canada N2G 4GI

But if you must try this right now try this recipe.:)
Recipe for possible Quikwall substitutute.
5 parts Portland
1 part Acrylic admix or concrete bonding admix
Water as needed to make a paste like thick mud.
1 part latex paint
1/4 part fibers

Replace a Portland with a sand if you like.
Fly ash or silica fume will make it even stronger.

Here is a link that might be useful: QuikWall in Ontario

Depending on other variables (type of bonder, type of latex paint you might need more than Portland
BTW colored latex paint in white Portland is a very cool base. So go nuts.
This recipe leaves a beautiful water proof finish.

Thanks David... that is the exact company I am waiting to get a return call from!

Marly

Rickharmer, I am loving your specific information about why the regular fiberglass mesh fails in outdoor projects. I called about my free scrap mesh and the lady in the office of the drywall supply place said they call it "detail mesh" and she "thinks" it is just fiberglass mesh. They would sell me a roll 10 inches wide and 150 feet long for $ 30..... just to be nice - they don't really sell retail.

After reading your information, now I want "scrim" - the stuff you talked about that is actually made to go with cement products. I know of one place to order the appropriate materials for concrete work. Sherri Warner Hunter has done a couple of great books on concrete garden projects and she does amazing huge benches and playground settings for commercial sites as well as other art. She uses the Polyadam System. I just haven't had the nerve yet to invest in the supplies - I am sure they are terrific. I keep thinking I will work my way up to needing them by practicing first with my little ideas. You might want to check out this site for materials/prices:

Thanks for the mesh site you mentioned.

Laura

Here is a link that might be useful: polyadam system

I took a photo of the mesh I used. I added the photo to my album called "spheres". The supplier says it is fiberglass mesh.....
Fleur, I don't know if flexible screen would work or not but you could do a quick experiment and let us all know!

Laura

Here is a link that might be useful: Here is a link that might be useful: look in

Here is what the Quickcrete Company site says about quickwall:

QUIKWALL® Surface-Bonding Cement

Portland cement based blend of fine sand and glass fibers for repairing wet, cracked, unattractive walls. Add color with QUIKRETE® Stucco & Mortar Color.

Available in:
50 lb. bags - 56 per pallet

Use for:
Dry-stack Concrete Block Construction (without mortar)
Waterproofing and Strengthening Block Walls Built with Mortar
Rehabilitating Existing Walls with a Water-resistant and Decorative Coating

----------------------------
I also read somewhere that if you use quickwall for some application you should add fortifier. I assume that means there is no fortifier in the product.... but it sure has that pliable feel when it is wet.
Laura

Laura, I love your sphere! I have the ball from Walmart but haven't had the nerve to attempt it yet. The leaves make yours very special.

On the Quikwall: I couldn't find it locally because we don't do too much stucco in the PNW. Lowe's special ordered it for me from a distributor of Quikcrete products. While it's true that I have an "in" at Lowe's (dh works there) the real advantage is knowing how things work in the box stores. For those who want Quikwall, try going up to the masonry/contruction counter of your local box store and telling them you'd like to place a special order. You'll be amazed at how inexpensive it is. Hope this helps!

Deb

Hi Laura,
I ordered the Polyadam system from Sherri Warner Hunter. I purchased a gal of the pII fortifier and 10 yards of scrim.
I thought the scrim was reasonable @ $35 for 10 yards but not in comparison to Mesh Depot's 50 yards for $59. Not that I need 50 yards - yet!

The PII gives a wonderful consistency - very much like clay. Can't say yet about added strength. Drawback: My first project with it was also a sphere and it is taking the entire gallon for the project. I can't really afford $35 bucks just for fortifier for one sphere.

When I finish it, I will make another with quickwall and fortifier to compare. Please post if you try it and we can compare notes...

Laura, your "leaf-ball" is just stunning!! I looked at your albums and it looks like you have painting leaves down pat!! Very beautiful.
On the fiberglass and mesh discussion--I have a small kit from the auto supply store to repair some holes in the fenders of my 21 year old truck and it has a piece of fiberglass fabric in the kit. It is a tighter weave than the mesh and tapes that I have seen though. Maybe it would be available though an auto parts place? And then another thought--do any of your remember when draperies were made of fiberglass? And do any of you have those things stashed away in your attics? Or maybe your mother's or grandmother's attics? I think one could use that fabric don't you?

Regards,
spiderwoman

You need coated alkali resistant fiberglass or the lime will just eat it up.

Here is a link that might be useful: alkali resistant fiberglass

Today I found the men who were applying the mesh I used for my sphere. They are in the painters' union. The mesh I showed photos of in my album is fiberglass. The men did not think it had any coating to make it alkaline resistant BUT when I checked out the bag that provides the first layer for their system - it is mostly sand and Portland cement. Since this is part of a packaged "system" that provides an exterior waterproof finish (the faux stucco someone mentioned), I am thinking the mesh provided HAS to be alkaline resistant but the men using it just don't know that it is. They have to be trained in applying the material but I guess they don't really have to know a lot about properties of the product. I guess my point is that it sure is hard to get reliable information!! However, I'm sure if I actually purchased some mesh I could be positive of what I was getting. Meanwhile, free scraps are sure fun to play with.

Black Socks - this is just what I feared. The great materials cost a lot to use. I sure want to hear your report on the strength of your finished product though. Laura

I exchanged emails a while back with an artist who works with Portland Neat and Gardencast. He swears by nylon window screen. It also comes in long narrow rolls used for soffit screening in home construction.
I've considered this myself but have never found any reference to this material used in concrete.
I wonder if there are different types of plastic window screening.
It would certainly work well with Neat Portland recipes but I wonder how long it would last.

I went to the DRYVIT website (dryvit.com)and looked over the info thereabout mesh tapes and what they use to affix it.
They take a pail of STARTER(35 lbs),add 100 lbs of sand and a bag of portland cement(I'm guessing about 84 lbs),mix in a mortar mixer 3-5 min,add a little water and its ready to go.The STARTER has an acrylic base and is liquid in nature.Oh,they also throw in fibres as well(a bag,seems a lot!).
So,to put in our own terms:aprox 1:1 cement /sand,with fibres and acrylic admix,dash water.The starter may contain other ingredients,none are listed.I'd guess plasticizer in liquid form.The company uses their mix as a base for the mesh,laying on about 1/4 of an inch of the mix before applying.As we would for the most part want smoother coating,I'd recommend silica sand(200 mesh),and a smidgen of silica fume.Apply real thin first coat,to bind the mesh,then go to town on the next(if desired).For moi,I'm getting on this stuff next week when I get my tape delivered,And I'll try,after a couple of bowls,a medicine ball!FUNNNNNNNN...or not?
Cheers

Laura, your sphere is lovely. Did you use actual leaves rather than cast ones? I wonder whether the delicate "skin" of quikwall on top will be dangerously fragile after the leaves decay...? Or will you peel & scrape them away to reveal the imprint underneath?

Beautiful job,
Colleen

Rickharmer, thanks for the way you get information and then put it into terms I can understand! Of course this is fun! Why else would we go to all this trouble! Always something new to discover... Can't wait for your input once you get thse materials.
Laura

Kalinka, I used actual leaves. After the "skin" of Quickwall had dried 24 hours, I picked the leaves and put Quickwall on the backs of them. Then I laid them on top of the ball and sort of patted them so parts of each leaf were raised more than the rest. The new Quickwall adhered perfectly to the dried skin. The next day the leaves had dried out and they began to fall off by themselves. When I took the photos, there were no more leaf parts clinging to the ball. So - what you see in the photos is the stage where I had already peeled the leaves away and you are seeing the imprint. The whole thing feels very stable and the edges of the protruding leaves seem nice and solid. I am starting to paint it and turning it over and sitting it in a 5 gal bucket for a holder doesn't seem to crack off any little edges. So far I am very happy with the overall strength. Laura

Laura, Don't knwo how I missed this thread. Great sphere! Don't think I've seen another one like this. What colors did you dicide to go with or better yet just surprise us with a picture. Billie

Hi,Laura..
Ordered my "detail mesh"today,I'll have it Tuesday to play with.Made a pracice batch of Mymud(my recipe,why not??)and wentwhite portland/silica flour(200 mesh sand) a dash of plasticizer and a bit of silica fume,all mixed with admix/fortifier.Just did a wee bit to play with-it's setting up now.Notes about it-sticky,very sticky!.I'll pop it out of the plastic bowl tomorrow.In thinking on the subject,we could take your ball one step further and coat the ball first with a release,then a thin coat of the mud,then add the mesh,and finish off with more mud.This would give further structure and strength and a surface that you could then add to for sanding to get an ultra smooth,polished look.I'm thinking of the ball as a water vessel(small pump inside,barely trickling to the surface-saw something like that at an L&L show here on the coast awhile ago)so the ball needs more coats for waterproofing,and to be able to finish the inside in a nice DARK colour.Looked very cool and mysterious.
Anyhow,must wait until Tuesday.
cheers from an impatient here

Rickharmer, I have some questions...
1. I keep buying something called "play Sand". I don't see on the sack any indication of what "mesh" it is. Do you know how it compares to your 200 mesh sand?
2. Where do people buy 200 mesh sand?
3. Does plasticizer have a different effect than acrylic fortifier?

Your idea about getting a different finish on the ball is very timely! I am trying to paint my leaf ball and I am thinking that the next one is not going to have this same texture. It looks like a big styrofoam ball. Since I have so many leaves with a smooth texture I think it will work out but I sure would like a slicker over-all surface to begin with. Any idea how you are going to achieve this? I am tempted to try smoothing pure portland and water over a dry sphere to get rid of the sandiness . Do you think that would do it or just chip off???

So many questions!
Laura

You probably do not want to use a super plastizer to do a ball.
It radically increases slump.
Adding lime however would be helpful, although it reduces over all strength.
This is why QuickWall is 3500psi by the other similar products are 5000psi and up.

Laura Portland neat (no aggregates)is used for Faux bois all the time.
In fact these 'neat' recipes are some of the closely guarded secrets around. Some Faux Bois artists take their recipes to the grave with them.

I posted a very strong neat fairly modern recipe in this thread.

Laura-Silica flour can be obtained from pottery stores.Plasticizer is not the same creature as fortifier.I've been using it in combo with addition of silica fume-slump increased slightly but stickiness,way up,at least at this juncture!As to portland and water,I wouldn't do it if I have silica flour(or silica fume)available.It doesn't feel like a sand,and it can,with sanding be bowling ball smooth.Did lots of fountain bowls with this finish and looks and feels real nice.But,that's my preference.I'll keep you informed on the pieces I'll be doing next week.
Just finished pouring my outdoor fountain base.Damn thing is heavy,but,for this project,that's what I want.Bowl is done,going to be painted next week,get the plumbing in,new sound for the yard!
cheers from here

Neat Portland with admix and latex paint and a few other 'goodies' is frequently used 'as is' in concrete sculpture over an armature and is quite/very strong.
Silica fume messes with the colors.
If you are painting silica fume certainly can't hurt.

As stated,tufaenough,each to their own.Your choice might not be mine.That's OK.I've done a lot with the cement/flour (Chas Sthreshley technique) in finishing bowls.A LOT.I'm happy with mine,but again,each to their own.As you say,with extra goodies,your proposal might be as good.But,when I'm using water(in fountains)I'll stick to what I've used and found reliable.
Oh,and Mr.Sthreshley uses this mix on outdoor statuary,has done so for many years.Check out his website.
Cheers from here

Laura, you asked for help in the painting of your sphere, but I personally don't think you need any help, looks as though, you are doing a great job, and your sphere looks "great".
I'm posting some pics of the sphere I tried awhile back, a friend of mine does stucco for a living and he gave me some used rolls of scrim that is used in the stucco process and 2 bags of stucco, it already has the fibers in it and it works really great. Stucco cost a bit more than portland, but it was free, so it really worked great :-), there are a few pics of painted leaves also, but like I mentioned, your painting looks great.
bonnie

Here is a link that might be useful: sphere

Bonnie, thanks for the great photos. I love your work.

Rick and Tufa..... Now my head is spinning with new ideas from your ferrocement sites! Amazing stuff.

Laura

Laura the free style fountain is a beauty and the color comes from the use of green latex cement.
He has a complete tutorial on his site.
I've been have a ton of fun with that recipe and managed to pick up about 15 gallons of latex paint from garage sales for just a few bucks.
I love doing freeform with that recipe it is so smooth and easy to use. I'm lucky that I can work in a tempurature controlled space thought. The stuff sets up fast in the heat.

Well!
I made my first piece of concrete art using the mesh and Mymud,and the results are VERRRY interesting.I used a stainless mixing bowl,and a plastic one as well.Did a thin coat of Mymud,followed by the mesh,then another thin coat of Mymud.
I waited 48 hours(sorta forgot about it with family and paying guests here!)and popped them out of their molds.plastic was easy,but I had to beat up the steel one.A lot!Finally,out it came as well.Talk about thin walls.Strong(did the drop test)and light,I was impressed.I figure that I'll have to recoat both sides(mesh shows through)but I'll still have a lightweight fountain bowl.
Thanks for the lead on this material.I'll keep you informed about the final coatings.
Cheers from here!

Final thought for the evening...took the smaller piece I made,and dropped it from about 4 feet!Bottom remained intact,no cracks apparent,some minor breakage on sides.With another coat or 2 this baby is solid!!
cheers from here

Rickharmer - that result sounds great. What size bowl shape did you drop? What did you drop it 4 feet onto -- grass, concrete,something else??
These comparisons from people who try the thin wall idea are very helpful. I think if we weighed and measured our final result we could have a better idea what others are achieving. With that in mind I will go weigh my latest sphere- made on the 16 inch ball with portland/fibers/sand/fortifier and mesh.
Laura

I have been experimenting with the mesh I have- trying to use it with my own mix of concrete instead of the Quickwall. I measured the sphere that has been curing for 7 days .... It was made with mesh and portland/fibers/sand/fortifier/bonding agent/water. The walls are approx. 1/4 inch thick and it is 17 inches in diameter. It weighs 9 pounds.
I wish I had the nerve to drop it 4 feet onto the concrete floor but it was too much work to risk. I would guess that such a fall would dent the bottom but not do much else. I guess I will never know for sure til it happens accidently someday.
Laura

No cursing here!
As mentioned,I took Mymud,and waferred(?)the mesh between coats of it,using two 16 inch steel bowls.I waited 48 hours and just got them apart.First bowl came out OK;but,for the second,outer bowl, I had to hammer the living h--l out of it first with rubber mallet,then with hammer,then it came out.Oh,I also repeatedly dropped the steel bowl on the floor to get to release the concrete/And they came out,with NO cracking at all!Average thickness is around 1/4 of an inch!Unfriggin' believeable.I didn't quite have enough mud to completely do the inside surface,but,it looks good for the future,The outside came out of the mold looking like I'd been polishing it for a while.It shines!
So,what does this do for me?Well,makes for lighter fountain bases,that's for sure.I'll probably put an additional coat on the inside for colour,to make sure the mesh,seen vaguely,is completely obscured.
Damn,I'm good.And all thanks to you,Laura,for turning me on...to the product!
Cheers from here

Only here do people understand such excitement over 1/4 inch concrete walls! That is why it's so much fun to come check the forum and see who is turned on to what.... night or day. Your enthusiasm is a real motivator, Rickharmer!
Laura

Laura, over the last month it appears you now prefer using Portland/fibers etc. instead of Quickwall. How come? Quickwall sounds easier (no sand or fibers to be added). I am not attempting your beautiful spheres, but like you for my leaf work I am trying to achieve delicate but strong,undulating walls.Which way to go?

Hawks, I still love Quickwall. I keep trying to make my own cheaper mix that is comparable.... just for the heck of it I guess. Quickwall is so easy and ready and works so well that I usually reach for it.
Laura

Laura, I made my first sphere last week. I used a cheap beach ball about 12" from the dollar store. I eventually got it where I like it. My biggest problem is that I had to do it in stages because the Quickwall slides off at a certain point. I used a release agent. Is that the problem? Marie

Marie, I think you have figured out the problem. No release agent is needed for a balloon or ball type surface. After the Quickwall cures you can deflate the ball or balloon and it will gently pull itself away from the Quickwall surface - without any release agent. Your next sphere should be much easier! That must have been frustrating to have the stuff keep slipping off.
Laura

Since the original link is no longer valid, I found an updated link to the leaf sphere from the OP in another thread and thought I would add it here.

Here is a link that might be useful: