Hardibacker board for garden walls
HowieDoin
18 years ago
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HowieDoin
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Bathroom Walls - Hardibacker, Densshield or Greenboard?
Comments (18)Actually, EITHER system (Kerdi OR Hydroban) can be used over a mud pan, and in fact, as much as I've used both systems, I've yet to EVER use the pan tray. That said, though, ALL my showers now are Hydroban, if for no other reason than the fact that they're completely seamless. No build up from layers of membrane in the corners is a another plus. The ONLY time I'd consider using Kerdi now is for a steam shower, being that with Hydroban, you need a separate vapor barrier, and with Kerdi, you don't. As for using Ditra in areas other thanwet areas, I know several installers that use Ditra for ALL their flooring underlayment needs, completely replacing all floor backerboard with it. I DO believe it's got its place, but I'm not ready to pass on the extra expense of Ditra over backerboard just because. I'll use it where it's warranted, and that's it. It IS okay to do it, though, mechanically speaking....See MoreHelp! Need to tile tomorrow...hardibacker on top of blue board?
Comments (11)Shaughnn... I have no DOUBT that you are absolutely correct...it just sounds right to me....the problem is I'm in rural Alabama and that's not what they "do" here yet...I spoke with 2-3 contractors and several tile installers and they directed me in how I should go...I called my drywall supplier and he called it "greenboard" and confirmed it was a gypsum product..he said here most builders will put plain drywall in the tub surround and tile right on that....he said it was better that I had put the greenboard down and that definitely I could mastic right on top of the greenboard and tile there...I know you're probably cringing and saying NO WAY! But in the real world where things are done everyday and this house will likely outlive my lifetime...am I too wrong to do what they're telling me "everyone around here does?" My main concern is providing a good barrier between the tub surround and wall to prevent any leaks...I did have my tub filled to the rim with insulation (icynene liquid foam) underneath...and I plan on sealing the tub surround well with caulk etc....this tub will be used once a week if that gives you an idea....please advise (although I know you already have, but given the circumstances, need more) Tara...See Moreleveling plywood floor before hardibacker is installed + confirm
Comments (6)I don't have a good enough grasp on 1) and 2) to comment. Photos would help. Regardless, the idea is as you wrote, get the floor FLAT. Level is nice, but not required. Flat is important, even more so when you use larger tiles. 3) Yes, SLC can be fine. But before using, I'd take out the tile (done) and the "very thin layer of plywood" under the tile (if not done). IF the subfloor underneath is fine, then add 3/8" or 1/2" plywood over that, screwed. That should give you a nice 1-1/8" minimum of structure under the tile. Then you can SLC over that if appropriate. It might not be appropriate if, for example, the doorway into the bath is the low point in the room. You might not want a half-inch lip of SLC at the threshold. SLC will run wherever you let it. Caulk, tape, or somehow seal or dam up wherever you don't want it to go. Think of it as water. If there's a crevice or passageway available, it'll flow there. Best to have two people, one mixing and the other placing. You want to get it all down NOW and help it where it needs to be helped, then let it self-level. 4) Yes. Just remember that thinset is THINset, not THICKset. If you need a thick build, then use a medium bed mortar, or just mix your own, portland cement an sand. 5) You can use whatever you want, unmodified is used because it's simply less expansive. You don't need a strong bond to hold the cement board down. That's what the screws do. The thinset is simply a gap-filler, it prevents vertical movement between the cement board and the plywood. So unmodified or modified will work. 6) Modified. 7) I use white modified thinset. White is important if the glass is translucent. Gray will muddle the color of the glass. Watch ridge marks too. Uncompressed ridges/valleys can telegraph through some glass tiles....See MoreTips for installing hardibacker?
Comments (55)@ earl. #1....your homes structure first must meet deflection for the specific tile's rating. and that is not achieved nor improved by using any brand cement board, thinset or not. The majority of the tile floors i see fail have a cement board and thinset approach on top of a un-approved mix of joist and poor subflooring.. There is no structural benefit from Cement board under your tile it is simply used to raise a floor elevation and give a bonding surface for the thinset/tile so it matters not if its 1/4 or 1/2" cbu. You first need to meet deflection with structural materials and MATH. That happens with lumber and means exp1 plywood of 1/2' or better at each layer ( no 3/8' or 15/32" etc.) installed properly with, fastener placement/type, cross blocking, grain direction, lapping joints properly, glue, and with uncoupling in mind. FIRST. How you arrived at 1-1/8" is also of question/concern unless it is 2 layers exp1 @ 5/8" +1/2" installed properly.. Lasty when you run into TGI or trusses that have such O.C. spans, and they dont Jive with the Deflectolator on that other forum that some mentioned, you need to contact the MFG of Truss to get their deflection/loadspan directly from MFG. As an installer of Waranteed tiled floors, I can tell you there is a lot to it and cement board is not the answer....but then I tear out a lot of failed DIY or semi pro floor installs and replace them with an Industry compliant warranteed install, so I am a bit over the top with the "How to" properly tile a floor for these forums... I did enjoy this comment Amazing that some folks will use the wrong/cheap way to set a floor because they "Can't Afford It," and when it fails, they can somehow afford to have it ripped out and re-done????...See MoreDena6355
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