I had a lily that grew for about 30 years without being repotted. When I drained the pond, the lily had grown out of the pot and was serpentined all over the pond. The pond was 15' by 45' so I had over a hundred feet of tuber from one lily. I had to remove all that and find good pieces to repot. Since it was fall and we were redoing the pond, I had to store the pieces for the winter. I put them in moist sphagnum moss for the winter in a cool place in the basement. I planted the 12 best sections. Ten of these thrived. That was 3 years ago, so I am hoping I can divide 2 of them this year so I can replace the other two that didn't get started. Originally, 35 years ago, I had planted 4 different colors. The one that took over was the hardiest, the white one. So that is my favorite since I know it will do well with no attention. Since I found Once-A-Year fertilizer spikes this year, I will be fertilizing with those. I never did fertilize more than once per year since it involved getting out the waders and only did that once.

You've probably discovered that it is just water stressed (wilted). It should come out of it on its own if you didn't damage the roots too badly. To ease the stress, enclose it in a clear plastic bag - maybe even a garbage bag - to keep the humidity high until it rebounds.

Peace lilies are INDOOR plants; house plants in other words - household light conditions are generally adequate. They will overheat and wilt in direct sunlight. If the soil is moist, it should perk up on it's own and not need watering again until either the foliage starts to droop slightly or the soil feels dry when you insert a finger to at least the first knuckle. Over watering is not a good thing for this plant either.

I know it doesn't seem possible, but a 10" pot holds about 5X (4.8) as much soil a 6" pot, so be careful you're not over-potting. How I would treat the plant: First, I'd make sure I have a slightly larger pot ready to go with screens over the drain holes and a 1" layer of potting soil mixed 50/50 with perlite covering the bottom of the pot. I'm only recommending that soil mix for this application because it should be compatible with the soil the plant is in. I'd prefer something with more aeration that drains better than that, but you shouldn't use 2 soils that are significantly dissimilar in one container. I'd then use a utility knife with a fresh blade or a new single edged razor blade to cut 4 vertical slits 1" deep in the root mass from top to bottom, then I'd cut or tear off (with my hands) the bottom inch of the root mass, set the plant on the bed of soil, and fill in around the perimeter with fresh soil and water lightly. After a couple of waterings, I'd fill in again around the edges, making sure I don't add enough soil to cover the top of the original soil/root mass. Don't worry - your plant won't balk at this treatment. Alternately: you could just hold off until the plant starts telling you it wants to grow, (prolly around Easter) then divide it with a butcher knife or similar tool, pot the divisions, and share your largess. Al