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Fruit & Orchards

hardy kiwi training question

14 years ago

Hello,

Last year I planted an arguta hardy kiwi, variety 'Anna' in the middle of a 24 foot long arbor. I tied up the longest existing shoot and cut off the rest. Shortly after that, a thick straight shoot emerged from near the base of the plant and quickly surpassed the thinner curvy shoot that I had tied up.

When it reached the top, I pruned the end at the level of the wires, hoping to get two shoots, one to train in each direction as the main cordons. Well, I got two shoots, but one is thick and vigorous, while the other is much thinner and slower growing.

{{gwi:91353}}

The buds on the vine are now swelling, and I'm wondering what I should do to get two good cordons established.

Leave it to grow, and hope the flimsy cordon catches up?

Cut off the main shoot below the two existing cordons and hope for two new vigorous cordons?

Something else?

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Comments (5)

kudzu9
14 years ago
alexander-
I can't answer your question, but you only mention the one vine and I wanted to make sure you knew that you need both a male and female plant to get fruit....
alexander3_gw
Original Author
14 years ago
Hi kudzu9

Yes, I planted a male at one end of the arbor, trained to have a single cordon.

Alex
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Yes, that branch will not get any longer. New shoots will come out from the buds below the cut in a few weeks. But they won't grow as fast because the energy will be divided among them. There's no rush, just let it grow. It will be difficult or impossible to have a perfectly manicured kiwi plant anyways. Until I find a better way, I spread my branches out and tie them to the wires with sisal twine which degrades in a year (by which time they have stiffened up). Speaking of "twine", one thing you may not have seen yet is the way the ends of the branches eagerly twine (the verb) tightly around anything they touch. I try to prevent that and am forever pinching off the wild ends and unraveling new branches. However, in your vertical orientation you might want to let them twist a few times around the top wire and then cut off the tip. I realize it was an accident this time. And for the record, I've yet to trying growing them on a "fence" like that sketch I drew. But if I had room (or a neighbor who was interested), I would try it even if it is probably higher maintenance and less productive than the overhead T-Trellis. Ron
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The fuzzy thing is a fuzzy kiwi, actinidia deliciosa. I prefer fuzzy kiwis, they produce more, larger, and tastier fruit, and fruit sooner. They should be hardy in your zone. The problem with it being unknown is it could be a male. Also the deliciosa and the arguta may not pollinate each other since the bloom may not overlap. Willis is not a highly rated nursery so its not surprising that so many died. Avoid them. You need to remove all that grass competition and put down some mulch to minimize weeds. It makes a big difference for small young plants. Don't over-fertilize, once kiwis get going they grow like crazy. In the first few years use a cup of 10-10-10 per plant, or similar. I use a handful of organic 5-5-5 on each of my plants. In terms of varieties, I like Ken's Red a lot. You already have that one. Make sure you get two males if you have that many kiwis, if one dies you don't want to miss fruit for 4-5 years waiting for the new male to get going. Arguta can take many years to fruit, my Myers Cordifolia has not fruited in 10 years. Kens Red took eight years for me. I would recommend getting a Saanichton fuzzy and a fuzzy male, and keep your other fuzzy and it can either be another female or a backup male. Saanichton has been my most reliable fuzzy kiwi, every year I get many fruits. Harvest them in November and put them in the fridge until February. Scott
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Mattmonkey, the main reasons I gave up on it: 1). It is a serious water hog, requiring constant pampering in my arid climate. 2). It can't deal with late spring frosts (or early fall frosts for that matter), being incredibly frost tender AND early to break dormancy, so it was continuously getting knocked back and having to start growth from the ground. So, it was basically too wimpy for me, or for my climate I should say. I'm sure the Northeast is more suitable (way more moisture, less drastic temp swings, gradually warming spring weather, etc…).
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theaceofspades
14 years ago
In commercial kiwi orchards you are supposed to train a thick and vigorous shoot to the top of the trellis. Train thick and curly shoots on the trellis wire. Rub off all shoots growing off the 'trunk. If I had to do it again I would not grow a male vine. Just graft it on here and there, much easier than training and takes less trellis space.
Scott F Smith
14 years ago
Alexander, I would take a "go with the flow" attitude about the kiwi training. It may decide to shoot up a whole new shoot from the base (kiwis love to do that) and you can make that one direction and use one of the others for the other direction. I often grow multiple shoots from the base, the later shoots grow straighter than the first ones so you get a straighter trunk that way as well. That thick guy will also make several long shoots so you could use two on it for the two directions.

Scott
theaceofspades
14 years ago
The commercial Kiwi growers use a single smooth trunk to the trellis. Kiwi will grow fat as a tree because they live a long time. You don't want cork screw stuff if you are going to use multiple leaders to the trellis. I grow mine out on a lattice wall screen and a 24' trellis on top. The neighbors pool is on the other side.

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