Mastiff,

One way you don't want to do it is by wrestling an allegator... I learned that the hard way :-(

Food for though: If you can make an alligator out of paper mache, why not use the same technique with tufa instead?

Some people use latex for mold making... you could apply it to your paper mache and use a release agent. Of course, if you're going to use paper-mache just for the purpose of creating a mold, you could try something called monster-mud for the positive image, then use latex for the negative.

A couple of things to point out, though. Depending on how large your alligator will be, latex as a mold making material can become expensive. Also, large tufa object are heavy and difficult to transport. If it is very large, you might want to consider making it hollow (or filled with styrophoam or something). In which case, using an outer mold would me cumbersome.

Others use silicone caulk... here is a posting on that. Keep us posted on your progress:

Silicone caulk mold posting

Here's a little something else I whooped up:

Mould making -How to-

wow thanks a bunch..that last one helped a lot.

Glad to hear

Be sure to keep us posted on your progress :-)

One more question..
How would I use tufa instead of paper. It's not mache..To make the alligator you ball up paper and tape it all together then when it looks like an alligator you cover it with glue and paper so you can paint it. It was on "Art Attack" show for kids
It does sound a lot easier than making a mold and everything.

Here's how I would do it:

• Create your alligator out of paper, or if possible, a more impermeable material, like plastic from plastic bags (I don't know what technique you're using, which is why this would seem to be a feasible approach). The created alligator would be your 'positive image'.

• Create your mold out of latex rubber or whatever substance you plan on using. The mould will be your 'negative image'. You will create it by applying a release agent to your paper (or plastic) alligator, then applying layers of latex to completely cover your alligator. When dry, cut around the half of the alligator, making an upper and a lower half.

• Remove your two negative images (half moulds).

• Find some kind of support for your molds, such as a filled sandbox. Remember, your molds are flexible and will get distorted unless you surround the outter parts with something to prevent them from moving around when you apply the tufa.

• Apply your tufa to each half. You don't necessaryly have to fill the alligator, just apply to the borders if your alligator is too big. Remember to try to be accurate at the borders as you will be joining them when they are partially cured (after 24-48 hours)

• Join the two halves using more tufa to 'glue' them together

The rest is observation, waiting for the right moment to scrape with your wire brush etc.

Also, I'm assuming there will be no overhangs, such as an open mouth or anything like that, which would make your mold a bit more intricate.

Hope this helps

That helped a lot..just one newbie tufa question..what do I do with a wire brush?

Not a bad question at all.

Whatever your tufa mix, it will look mostly like concrete unless you bring out the additives (peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, sand, etc).

When drying, the wet portland cement will have a tendency to fill gaps and cover up these elements. To bring them out again, you wait until the tufa is just about dry (I usually wait 24-48 hours, depending on how rough a finish I want, and how fast my tufa is drying), and you wire brush the surface to scrape off this fine layer of cement which is almost like a film of dry portland.