If it's just that brown spot you're referring to on the left side of the lowest leaf, which is abscising (shedding), I wouldn't worry about it. It looks more like the result of a mechanical injury than anything else I can think of. Eventually, the whole leaf will look like that as the shedding process continues.

Al

Thanks Al
Yeah I was hoping the little guys at the bottom of the branches would hang on. I keep seeing all these beautiful pictures of "column" style lyratas with their lower leaves hanging over the sides of the pots. But alas they are a tree so I will embrace:) This leaf looks a bit more pale than the rest as well, is that also part of abscising or is that an over-water situation? I should probably ask you a watering question too since you are the expert. In the winter with the lower light levels and cooler temps should I still be watering "profusely" until water runs out the drain hole? I've been doing that now but only when the soil is dry to about 4 inches deep. Or should I just be watering more conservatively.

I actually have more questions on potting medium too (after I read your incredible thread) but I think I've probably maxed myself out on questions haha

"Yeah I was hoping the little guys at the bottom of the branches would hang on."

Well, you sort of have two things working against you if you are hoping that. Leaves have a lifespan (think 'shelf life') that, even when they remain healthy, is roughly predetermined by genetics. Some plant's leaves are persistent (that's the hort term) for years - some pine trees - while other leaves last only a few days, sometimes less. Senescence is the term for the aging of plant parts, and natural senescence will gradually take all leaves - so you have that to fight.

Light also plays a part. When leaves diminishing light, it slows photosynthesis and the flow of the growth regulator auxin out of the leaf to be translocated to other plant parts, like roots. There is a zone at the base of each leaf called the abscission zone. There must be a certain amount of auxin flowing across that zone to keep an abscission layer from forming. When auxin flow, along with the flow of photosynthate, is reduced to less than the minimum to keep the abscission layer from forming - the layer forms. This layer is a barrier to water and nutrients too the leaf, and to the flow of photosynthate (food) and other bio-compounds like auxin from the leaf. The end result is that the plant sheds the liability when the leaf separates at the abscission layer and falls off.

More than you ever wanted to know, huh? ;o)

Don't worry about "maxing yourself out on questions", Curt. I have no shortage of patience when it comes to exchanging information with someone who wants to learn or solve a particular problem. I'll help if I can.

Take care.

Al

I'm still trying to look up all of these words
haha
so in a case like this lyrata...it probably just had excellent light or low "Senescence"
{{gwi:71053}}

Well if I'm not maxed out I'll ask another one. ha
I was wondering can you mix orchid mix (fir bark, horticulture charcoal and perlite) in with regular potting soil to aid in drainage or is there something with the mix that might not be a good idea for a ficus. Also, the watering thing. I keep reading to let it dry down and then water profusely...is that still the case in the winter?

Thanks for all the info!

Curtis

Sorry - I try to either explain the meaning of the proper terminology (often in parenthesis) or try only to use it in a context where it's self explanatory and you absorb the meaning by osmosis. (see what I mean?) ;o)

I think it's good to know the proper terms, and it's much easier to find technical advise other than mine when you go surfing for more info: besides, I'd be just thrilled to learn that you or others went looking for the meaning of something I said. You KNOW you're going to learn a whole lot more than you bargained for, once you find it. ;o)

"so in a case like this lyrata (see picture above)... it probably just had excellent light or low "Senescence"

Senescence means aging, so put an 's' in front of your 'low' (you get 'slow' senescence) and you would have said it correctly, but you'd have still been wrong. ;o) I'M sure the plant DID have excellent light - with the rest of the cultural conditions very favorable, too. What does this mean? It means rampant growth.

In a tree growing slowly, the lower leaves can die of old age while the tree only puts on a few inches of growth. Leaves can be 'years' old when the tree is only a few feet high; but, in the tree pictured, it's been growing very quickly, so the lower leaves are still 'young'. Make sense? ;o)

I was wondering can you mix orchid mix (fir bark, horticulture charcoal and perlite) in with regular potting soil to aid in drainage or is there something with the mix that might not be a good idea for a ficus. Also, the watering thing. I keep reading to let it dry down and then water profusely...is that still the case in the winter?

Size is important. I'll give an example: Pudding is made up of small particles that are very water-retentive. How much perlite or orchid mix do we need to add to pudding to make it drain well? What I'm saying here is it's difficult to answer your question w/o some knowledge about the size relation between the particles. You're on the right track, though.

I grow all my Ficus in a soil that looks like this:{{gwi:53827}}
I'd like you to know that when I say there are a large number of growers from GW and other forums using this mix for a wide variety of plants and having very good success, I'm not self-promoting. I only mention the success of others in case you were reluctant to try it, and because I care about YOUR growing experience. If you like, I'd be glad to offer a link to a discussion about this soil so you can read other's reactions first hand.

About the watering thing. Many here (ok, a few then) tell you to water profusely at every watering w/o factoring in what kind of soil your plant is in. You may NOT be able to do that if the soil is heavy. What sense to water profusely if it will kill your plant via root rot?

It's best to water profusely every time, but if you can't, you should flush the soil thoroughly at least once each month. Wet the soil thoroughly, wait a bit, and at intervals pour about the volume of the container the plant is in, through the soil at least 4 times. This will flush the soil of accumulated salts (and fertilizer). When you're done, fertilize at 1/4 recommended strength.

If you think the flush treatment will jeopardize the plant because the soil will remain too wet, too long, simply depot the plant & allow the root mass to rest on a few newspapers overnight. In the AM, return it to its pot. Alternately, push a wick through the drain hole of the container. Allowing it to hang below the container after watering will help eliminate nearly all the perched water (the water that won't drain) from the container & reduce the likelihood of root issues.

Take care.

Al

i am not sure if i have a problem with my ficus lyrata, but may be it's some sort of deficiency. the new leaves come out with dark veins loser to the top of the leaf. as the leaf grows, they almost dissolve, but still somewhat visible if back lit. otherwise it's doing quite well, nice big leaves,etc. it's in south-west diffused light corner with some early east light. i keep it on a dry side. it's happening both in very large 8' multitrunk plant and even more so in 18" cuttings that i rooted last year. could it be some nutrient that is missing?