Jroot, great information and new cuttings do need some light source but I have heard of some folks playing with no light source on new cuttings. Which brings us to mailing packages, if done right nubs do appear by the time they arrive. So I would say either way as long as they are potted in dirt will little light so that the roots will be stronger than leaving them in water all winter. We talk of keeping them dormant, which is for plants with healthy root systems not younger plants which in my book need a light source.

Check your okra and tomato plants too, nematodes love those roots more than fig roots...... If I had nematodes present in my yard like some do in the sandy soils of Florida, I still would try to grow a few fig trees in the ground....near a concrete slab or building. Fig trees perform much better and are more forgiving when grown in the ground than in containers. I read an article sometime back where LSU recommends thermally heating the ground to lower nematode populations in infected soils before planting a new tree.....I can't find that article at the moment for posting. Alternately, I would remove some soil from a site where I planned to plant a fig tree and build a fire in that pit.....replace sandy soil with a high clay content soil (called black jack or gumbo soil in Louisiana) if you have it. Nematodes do not do very well in high clay content soils. Layer the new soil with limestone....limestone is an anti-nematode agent. Build another fire on top of the ground after filling in the pit. Then cover the area with BLACK tar paper or BLACK plastic to capture the sun and heat up the soil.....heat the soil with a black covering for one year. Later plant the fig tree in that thermally heated site again mulching with limestone. Keep the area near the tree also mulched with leaves, hay, pine straw, etc. to help keep moisture in the ground. Nematodes harm trees by making it harder for the tree to absorb nutrients and moisture. Make sure to water and fertilize your tree regularly and prune to keep growth in balance with the functioning roots. If these steps are taken, it is my understanding that a fig tree can grow in that infected soil. Dan 45 miles from the LSU campus.......

Mindy and Laura, I thought I would chime in here since I received two bare rooted cuttings from Thailand earlier this summer. There wasn't a speck of dirt on them and they were bone dry when I received them. I had no idea what to expect after the long journey from Thailand. To my surprise, they were still firm and showed no real signs of stress. I immediately unpacked them and was even more surprised to see one maybe two roots on each cutting. Each root was no longer than two inches and about the size of a bean sprout in thickness. It was a risk I was willing to take buying on ebay and from Thailand. I promptly whipped up a batch of plumeria brew - about a cup of water with 3 drops of superthrive. After soaking the cuttings in the brew overnight, I planted them in a modified gritty mix. By that I mean I added an equal part of potting soil to the normal gritty ingredients. Figured that would help weather the 104 degree temps I was getting in Virginia. I soaked it good and kept watering periodically because of such hot temps. Fast forward a couple weeks and I now have multiple leaves off the tops of both cuttings. I consider myself lucky. I never thought I'd see much from so little in the rooting department. You can see how the cuttings looked right after unpacking them. Another bare rooting story to help you out maybe. One winter I stored two 5 foot tall trees bare rooted. They were in the basement for the winter months sitting high and dry. Come spring I put them in new potting soil, pea gravel, perlite, and reptile bark. Kept them watered, but not soaking wet and in a few weeks they woke up and grew just fine. From Garden 2012

Regarding the watering of plants... The next time you have a potted plant, make sure the bottom of the pot has at least 1 hole, take it to the sink and give it a thorough watering, so that water runs out of the hole(s). When it stops dripping, pick it up and note how heavy it feels. Note the turgidity and stance of the leaves. Then look at the plant and feel the leaves at least every other day for signs of wilting. When you determine that wilt has begun, pick up the plant again. Now you have a gauge. When the plant is slightly heavier than what you are holding now, it is ready for a drink. And now you also have a basic time frame for how long this takes but you will still water by the heft of the pot, not by the calendar since factors like humidity, temperature, and eventually the growth of the plant will alter the time frame. So, as you see, the best answer to "when should I water my plant?" is "right before it wilts." For a plant like snake plant, the wilting is not a factor you can use, but most plants will wilt, which is akin to a person first laying down on a death bed. Ideally, when the plant is thirsty, it will get a chance for thorough watering at the sink, and allowed to drip out. If you have the space and forethought, water that has had a chance to sit overnight will have the chlorine evaporated out of it, and is much more appreciated by your plants. Lots of cuttings can grow for years in water, or in ordinary yard dirt in a pot in the house. I've done both. Although some will grow noticeably bigger, I wouldn't say that most water-bound cuttings actually grow much, most are in more of a state of suspended animation. The worst thing that can happen really is you get lime scale on the jar or glass, so just don't use one of granny's antique wine glasses. If you want to try more like that, look at just about any non-woody plant trailing out of a hanging basket. Most of those will root and grow in water, and most of their owners would gladly break off a piece for you.