Thanks. I was looking last night & it was saying that they only produce for 2 weeks? I know on the packet it says to plant every 2 weeks for a continuous harvest. That is what confused me. We really liked the Early Frosty pea last year but it would be nice to grow a pole pea and get even more of a crop. We plan on eating as many as we can fresh and freezing the rest. Reason being, fresh is best so I was hoping they would produce until it got hot. So, that being said.. to confirm.. this variety of peas will produce from April (planing in Feb) all the way up until it gets hot (around August)??

The remarkable amount of poor information you're getting is in part because you haven't properly stated your question, nor provided the pertinent information to get a clear response. First of all, as was stated, your zone is crucial, it determines when you plant, but also how quickly the heat comes on in summer, which is what will likely be the reason your peas stop producing. Secondly, are you growing for fresh peas, drying, or seed crop? This will determine how you manage the plot and whether you can be assured of enough time to ripen a second crop in the same plot. Whether you plant in single rows or wide beds also makes a difference - wide raised beds may dry out sooner, but thiskly planted wide beds will often maintain cooler soil temps, thus prolonging harvest. It also makes a difference in deciding which varieties to plant, assuming you are interested in optimal yield, and not conducting some agronomic experiment. The days to maturity that you are basing your calculations on is also flawed, because aside from differences in varieties, you will be planting as soon as the ground can be worked, which is not the same as optimal growing conditions. Planting a few weeks after last frost date may well give the same harvest window as you get by planting ASAP, because growing conditions (soil temp, light, water) would be more favorable. All this being said, depending on what the weather brings, your harvest could extend anywhere from 10 to 50 days... that is simply part of the nature of gardening. If you are growing for dried peas, just do a few harvests of fresh peas at first and then let the plants mature and dry as they follow their natural course. When you stop picking fresh peas, the plant will stop producing more. Once the plants stop setting fruit and have started to dry, you can remove them from the field and hang them to dry elsewhere, thus freeing your beds for subsequent plantings, but unless you undersow the peas or use transplants, you will have to calculate your second planting based on a fairly wide (and at this point unknowable) set of criteria. It is definitely not a simple question.

are you feeding it, remember bananas like a lot moisture, organically rich soil and potassium..I've read that people will fill a hole with compost and put the plant in there... as far as I know you need the stalk to have produced at least 40 leaves give or take before it will fruit..so I think you have a ways to go yet..good luck.

Hey Geekella - I'm in Louisiana too!! Covington, how about you? This is my second year growing pumpkins my first year was semi-successful. I'll share some of what I learned, I hope it's helpful. First, I'd get your pumpkins started ASAP. Pumpkins store well, you can harvest when they're ready and keep them around until Halloween. It also doesn't hurt to leave them on the vine unless you have rot or something. I waited to sow my Winter Luxury last year until beg of July because I didn't want them until November and I never got a single pumpkin off it. The heat and humidity of peak summer may have been too much for a young plant but I also lost entire patch to PM near the end. Stopping PM in our climate is extremely difficult. You might be better off starting earlier to give your plants a longer time in case PM gets them and kills patch. Do you have a plan for preventing Powdery Mildew? It's one of those things you can't get rid of once you have it and it will kill every single plant. Prevention is the only way, especially in our climate!! While I'm at it, do you have a plan to keep away Squash Vine Borers? Down here in LA they are multi-generational, they are laying eggs and killing pumpkins from May to October. Infuriating bugs, your first clue you have them is when your plants die :/ That being said, growing pumpkins is so much fun! I grow pumpkins with my kids for jackolanterns as well as pie pumpkins. The plants really take off and the pumpkins themselves get bigger over night. Hope that helps!