Putting enough water so it flows out and through the holes (at a sink where it won't fill up the cache pot) is a great thing to do, at least once in a while, to make sure moisture is reaching all the way through the root ball and flushes out impurities from the soil. Then allow it to finish dripping before putting back in the cache pot, and to dry significantly (but not completely) before adding more water. Were you thinking about putting it outside for summer? Higher humidity might help it "feel" a lot better. Possibly more sun while inside, and on the floor is where the coldest air is. Any place higher, nearer to a window, for it? I like the slickness of the new look but had to change the writing to a MUCH larger size. Your pics look fine to me. Sometimes an ad comes up that makes a page weird. If you reload and get a different ad, that can fix it.

You need to test the pH of the water to determine how much vinegar you need. Even two water sources with the same initial pH can need different amounts of vinegar to get to the same final pH; it all depends upon their chemistry (what's dissolved in them). Get some pH test strips, the ones which cover a wide range of pH, and do some experimenting. Maybe a teaspoon of vinegar at a time, mix well and test. Keep going until you get to the level you want. BTW, 1/4c per gallon seems like a lot. Not impossible but most waters need quite a bit less. My relatively hard well water needs 4t/gallon to get to pH 5.5.

It depends on how drastic you want to go. You can cut each trunk to a couple of inches above the soil. This is very drastic but will fatten up the trunk. I don't know if I would go so drastic. I have a single trunk jade that was about 6-7 inches tall. It branches into three limbs at about the top third. I trimmed each of the branches back to withing 1-1 1/2 inches of the main trunk and took off all leaves. It has no less than 8 new leaves on each limb and that was only two weeks ago, maybe three. Without seeing it, it is hard to say where to prune. I am sure that each of the main trunks has secondary limbs. I would find where the first secondary limb is from the top and whack it down to about 1 inch above that limb. Prune each secondary limb to within 1 inch of the main trunks. Yes, this takes off all the leaves, but that is okay. It will put out more within weeks and be full by mid-summer. Let all of the cuttings lay out on the counter out of direct sunlight for about a week. If they are really big in diameter (more than an inch) leave them out longer. The place where you cut should be calloused before you plant them. As a general rule, I go about a week for each 1/2 inch in diameter. Once it is calloused, put it in soil. Make sure you've taken off the leaves from the bottom third of the cutting as you will need to plant it about that deep so that it can stand on its own. Otherwise, you'll have to secure it another way. Wait until you see new growth in the the form of a bud that will appear right on top of the top set of leaves before you start watering. When you have new growth, you have new roots. Then you know it is time to water. I would not do this in the same pot as the mother plant. Do it separately and get them established before you move them to mama. This way, you can keep mama watered well to put out all those amazing leaves. Keep mama minimally to moderately moist during the growing season, as well as the others once they're growing. Allow them to dry, but not completely between waterings. Fertilize every 3-4 weeks with Schultz C&S fertilizer or regular house plant fertilizer diluted by a fourth of the directed amount. Only fertilize in spring and summer. To propagate the leaves, place them on well draining soil or high fired clay. Leave them alone and new roots will grow down into the soil and create a new plant. Doing cuttings from leaves takes a long time to get a significant sized plant. By the end of a year, you'll have a three inch plant. Use your bigger cuttings. The rewards are seen much sooner.

No need to apologize I was trying to point you in the right direction and figured that you would look up strawberries to prove me wrong. Many times after the new plant developes the runner may dry up completely and you can just break it with your fingers. Some strawberries will lose the lowest set of leaves on the plant. This year has been so strange on all types of plants that to say a plant will do some certain thing this year is wishful thinking. I have not seen a strawberry send out new shoots close to the main plant. As long as your strawberries look healthy enjoy them. You can dig up the new plants and set in a more orderly fashion or just let them form a mat. An interprising friend used to lower small soil filled flower pots into the soil then lightly pin the runners ends to the soil. She had the touch and seldom had a pot without a new plant. She used the light weight clothes hanger wires to make her pins. She then used the extra plants to sell.