If you would put your location or zone in your personal info you would get better info, but here's what I'd say if you were in my location... I would try the Walla Walla seed, winter stratification can really help out onion seed, especially if it isn't fresh seed. As for the lettuce, I'm already harvesting my fall crop which was sown July 26. I would save the lettuce seed and sow again in March, if sown now it would be subject to runoff or being eaten over the winter. I tried a bale straw coldframe with window one year to start a bunch of rose cuttings. I did not see an appreciable difference in the rate of rooting between the cuttings in the bale coldframe and those planted in the garden. OTOH it was nice to be able to brush the snow away and see the cuttings when nothing else was green. A lot of these questions might be better answered in a vegetable garden forum. Winter sowing, at least to me, is more a form of container gardening in a winter setting for the purpose of germination. What you are discussing is direct sowing, and even though you are sowing in winter, it doesn't really fit the parameters of what most people mean on this forum when they say "winter sowing". I hope that helped. Jeanne

Careful with corn planting. There are a few hybrid types, SA, SH and SH2. If these hybrids are planted next to each other or with regular corn, you will not get a good usable yield. accidentially mixed a regular with an SH and all the ears were short stuby and only had maybe 2 inches of usable kernals. Summer squash, zuccini, and eggplant are watery and do not freeze well as they just turn to mush when thawed. You could dry them or just make something using them and then pressure can or freeze the recipe. Limas will need about 90 days to fully mature. I use an innoculent for all beans and peas. It improves yields by making more nitrogen available for the roots. Snow peas are good too. I prefer bush beans of the yellow waxed type. They are heavy yielding plants and out of about 12 plants I picked about 6 gallon bags of them for the freezer.

You can leave the cobs on, but they do take 300%-500% more freezer space. Also corn loses a LOT of its flavor back into the cobs even if blanched and frozen whole. Cobs don't taste good, nore does any corn thats been lying around a few days.. If not shucked, cooked, and eaten within 20 hours you loose almost 50% of the true fresh flavor. My brothers mother inlaw was a farmers wife they had 60 acres and a farm stand in Salem NH (Hawkins Farm) We would go up in winter and be served frozen corn OFF the cob. It was as if it was from the garden a few minutes before, but that garden was all snow fields by then. The frozen ears are usually an SA, SH or SH2 type. These, I find have WAY more sweet, but lack that characteristic corn taste. They are hybrids and are genetically engineered for the higher shrunken gene that is adjusted for the higher sugar content. Its like eating bland corn with a big dump of sugar on it, yuk! If these hybrids are grwn nearby each other, they will produce toally unusable corn suitable for feed only. Happened to me already way back when.. I now stick to a good high quality no hybrid sweet yellow ears, no white, or milk and sugar, butter and cream ,or what ever the bicolor stuff is called. Good luck..

Have the seeds germinated yet? If you have actual plants, I have read that watering before the freeze helps with survival. The other question of course would be how cold is cold? Most of those plants have done very well for me with just a row cover (or nothing) even when it dipped to 20 last week. If the seeds have not germinated, I might consider holding off on the watering to keep them dormant just a little longer, but it could go either way.