Carolyn, if they're still in the peaty soil they came in, you should let them get fairly dry before a thorough watering. If they're still mostly dry on top, maybe you didn't put enough water? You can top water, just try not to get the leaves too wet. And drain the pots thoroughly afterwards. Never let your violets stand in water for more than 20 minutes or so. If they get waterlogged, they will get root rot and die, so it is best to transplant them into a good mix ASAP. It's difficult with peaty soil, because it does hold so much water. Check out the link below for tons of very useful info, with pics! Korina Here is a link that might be useful: Rachel's Reflections

There is no regular schedule that will work for everyone because of differences in weather, soil, etc. The only right answer is to water tomatoes when they need it. If the plants look droopy in the morning, they probably need water. Afternoon droopiness on a hot day is more normal. Use a moisture meter or stick your finger in the soil to see if it is dry. Are your plants in the ground or in containers? In my zone (9b) it has been cooler and damper than normal, which accounts for more tomato problems. Here is a link that might be useful: What's Growing On?

Tomatoes require a minimum of 1" of water per week (1.5" in a sandy, fast-draining soil). You are right, deep watering is best. Tomatoes also need consistent soil moisture, as fluctuations can cause cracking and/or blossom end rot. A good layer of mulch will help maintain more consistent soil temperature and moisture levels, as well as help keep weeds down. Don't panic if you don't have a lot of tomatoes during this very hot weather. The plants often will not set fruit if temperatures are above 90 degrees. Rutgers Cooperative Extension has a few fact sheets on growing tomatoes in the home garden; a link for one of them is below. Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden

If it truly was the "best damned worm composting place" we would not be unpaid slaves working to fill somebody else's pockets with traffic for ad money. But other than that I agree. There is a tribe somewhere where when the men come back from hunting they do not walk into camp noisy and triumphantly. They sit around the outside of the camp a bit away for a day or so observing. Then when they are back in the rhythm of the camp and know they would not be disturbing it they quietly return. Possibly it is enthusiasm that stops this procedure of looking around for a couple of minutes before bursting with excitement for the topic. I'd say growing into the name is still a work in progress. "1/2 pound and would require around 4 oz of food, but they didn't say how often" is a play on "worms eat their weight in food a day". But with a bit of tempering because that figure is under optimal conditions. It also fails to mention or consider bedding which is of equal or really more importance. Does the 4 oz include bedding which the worms also eat? Please ask the source of that information for me because I have always been confused. With out knowing anything about your bin or even seeing it I can categorically say add half the amount of food you are presently and tripple the bedding. Time is your friend. The worms will work for you, (as we do for this site), just sit back and let the multiply and in time collect your easily gained vermicastings or worm babies. *horrified face at worm babies. Worms just happen to be where we ply our trade. We could do this with dust bunnies. This post was edited by equinoxequinox on Mon, Apr 14, 14 at 23:52