Gritty Mix Help Prevent Borers, Other Pests?

14 years ago

I thought I'd post this here first, since many fruit tree experts seem to reside here ;-)

Question: Would using the Gritty mix for container fruit trees help prevent cases like borers?

Obviously it won't eliminate it, but I'm hoping it's of at least moderate help. I doubt cases where the first stage involves a flying female to bore and implant eggs could be helped, but from that point doesn't the media play a role before a life cycle completes? From what little I've read, some overwinter or lay eggs in the soil and for PTB during a specific larval stage they leave the trunk and enter the soil to cocoon.

I haven't seen even one critter in my gritty mix soil vs. regular potting and garden soil which can have lots when left on the ground even overnight. They just don't like the top layer of the diatamaceous earth/fired clay, I assume due to it's drying affect and non-smooth edges (DE prevents worms,snails/slugs).

I'd appreciate it if someone educates me on this topic.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (2)

olpea
14 years ago
Cebury,

I've waited for someone else to respond who had actually tried DE against PTB. Evidently there is not a lot of experience in this area. Such is the case, one must revert to extrapolation.

I don't see DE providing a powerful barrier to PTB. The moths lay eggs on the tree, not on the soil. If you have a problem with PTB, I would suggest the best organic approach is to provide a barrier to the tree trunk itself. A white latex paint will provide some barrier, as will window screen wrapped around the trunk. I've no idea how well they will work, as I use a pesticidal approach. If you choose to try a barrier method, I'd be interested in a report on their effectiveness.

Olpea
cebury
Original Author
14 years ago
Olpea, thanks for responding.

I have two mini peach trees left to re-pot and I was on the border to use potting soil for the last two or use up the (expensive) gritty mix on them. All other things being equal (the other *primary* pro's/con's that don't revolve around pest management), and since the trunk of these remain so small that a bad case of PTB may cause permanent damage, I was hoping the gritty mix would have a distinct advantage for borers.

I don't know much about borers, but was my interpretation of the text correct: at specific stages in PTB they are forced to enter the soil to cocoon? If so, I would assume the magget looking worms would not take to the DE very well. If nobody can provide insight, I guess I won't know unless I harvest and test them myself ;-)

I do paint the trunks and I don't have any hesitation to using pesticide to protect these little trees. Thanks for the advice, I always appreciate it when someone takes the time to respond even if they aren't sure of the answer.

Peace.
Related Discussions
Long Term Potting Mix Recipe - Alternative to Gritty Mix
Q
Comments (27)
I thought I posted this on the gardenweb forum. Now it's houzz? Had to sign up for a new user name. Anyway soo - you can get the Naked Gardener Compost or Debco Premium Potting Mix from Masters (closing soon). Course Perlite is from The Perlite & Vermiculite Factory Myaree (much cheaper than anywhere else). Sand I got from a bulk landscape place (lawn mix) but you can get 10 or 20kg bags of builders sand at Bunnings. Zeochlor is in the pool section at Bunnings. Rock Dust I got from the manufacturer direct somewhere in Bibralake (called Natural PK) but I think but you can now get a similar product from Waldecks (in Myaree at least). Waldecks also sell bentonite clay. I still want to try the gritty mix but getting my hands on all the materials has proved very difficult when I tried last year. I found a Queensland company that makes course DE (for mopping up oil/chemicals) but they didn't have a distributor in Perth. Nobody I could find has pine bark in the right size - and even if they did I'd have to by a cement mixer and modify it with a fine wire to screen it. Honestly, if an agricultural company were to produce the gritty mix and sell it in bags I think they'd make bank - even considering how long it lasts.
...See More
Gritty Mix transplant freaking out (help!)
Q
Comments (12)
The fig you had trouble with was repotted while it was in leaf, which is always going to be stressful. There is no way to determine how you went about repotting the avocodo w/o you telling us, so no one can determine what might have gone wrong. Did you keep the roots wet while you worked? cut pie-shaped wedges out of the root mass? fertilize right after the repot? remove a very large fraction of the roots? Sometimes, it's necessary to remove some of the foliage when trees are in leaf if you suspect the roots remaining after the repot might be inadequate in supplying the canopy with the water it needs. Resist the urge to water as soon as you see the top of the soil drying out. There is little water loss from the soil because of the condition of the plant and the glazed container, so I seriously doubt if you'd need to water more than weekly until growth resumes. Whether or not the plant responds depends on how well it was growing before the work. It looks like it was doing well, so it should be OK. I can tell you though, that you need to change something in your methodology to prevent this type of reaction in your plants. A little wilting and pouting is to be expected for a week or two, but not to the degree you're seeing with the avocado. Al
...See More
Pest Prevention.
Q
Comments (3)
The next time that you notice critters on your houseplants, take pictures first. By posting them here, or in the very active Houseplant Forum, you can have an accurate identification. Vegetable oil, especially when used in that kind of ratio does your plant no good at all. Not by blocking sunlight, but by clogging the breathing (gas exchange pores (stomata) . Horticultural oils do a great job of smothering a variety of houseplant pests, as well as their nymphs and eggs and are recommended for use on houseplants, but not a kitchen oil out of the bottle. You want something very light, mixable with water, and that allows a plant to breathe. I suggest that you purchase a small bottle of commercial horticultural oil and use it according to label directions. Alcohol is extremely popular for controlling pests on houseplants. Many people use it full strength while others find that one part alcohol to three or four parts water. It's used to control spider mites, mealy bugs, white fly, scale crawlers. I'd not mix the alcohol with anything else. I don't see any reason for the dish soap at all. Truthfully, such a combination of ingredients, in that ratio, could cause problems. No more vegetable oil applications, ok?
...See More
how to prevent fruit tree borers
Q
Comments (42)
In Los Angeles it is not uncommon to paint the tree trunks with a white, water based latex paint thinned to 50% with water. Besides preventing sunburn this supposedly prevents places for the borers laying their eggs. It has to be kept up and maintained annually as the trunk expands before the borers arrive and lay their eggs. The second treatment is dormant oil sprayed on in winter which suffocates any eggs present in the bark. Any borers already in the trunk will remain protected from attack. Any holes you find about 1/4" diameter are emergent borers leaving an empty "nest." If the borers have successfully eaten the entire circumference of the cambium layer around the tree rejoining their tunneling (full circle) the tree will die within a year or two. There are some attempts at spraying for adults. Such measures likely kill any predators (parasitic wasps mainly) as well and other beneficials. They are considered either ineffective or lore trouble than they are worth.
...See More

Gritty Mix Help Prevent Borers, Other Pests?

Comments (2)

olpea

cebury
Original Author

Related Discussions

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Gritty Mix Help Prevent Borers, Other Pests?

Comments (2)

olpea

ceburyOriginal Author

Related Discussions

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

cebury
Original Author