If people hear that this or that plant likes to be rootbound, they're bound to repeat it and stand by their advice until the last gong clangs, even if they can't explain why they offered the advice. Root congestion is limiting - there is no way around that. Growing a plant tight can yield some results the GROWER favors, but no plant likes or prefers to be rootbound. If it did, Mother Nature would have arranged for roots to grow in tight little cubes and balls directly under the plant's stem, but that is not how plants grow. If some thought is given to why the advice is so often repeated, it becomes clear that the giver of the advice has decided you WILL be growing in a water retentive soil, and the only way to prevent the roots from suffering from soil saturation is to grow it so tight that the roots quickly use all water supplied, allowing air to replace the excess water so the root can function. IOW, the grower is willing to trade the limitations of root congestion for the limitations imposed by soil saturation. The lesser of 2 evils is still an evil. Instead of forcing your plant to suffer from root congestion, put it in a large pot (after root pruning) and in a soil that holds little to no excess water. You avoid both the stress of root congestion and the limitations imposed by a soil too water-retentive. Instead of having to choose one of the horns of a dilemma, you'll be able to avoid the bull entirely. You asked, "I think from what you are saying I can turn my baby loose and it will be fine do you agree??" There isn't a solid 'yes' or 'no' answer to your question. Certainly you're not going to harm any plant by giving its roots room to run if the soil and other cultural considerations are well within the limits of what the plant is genetically programmed to deal with. Things like growth rate and vitality are limited whenever the plant isn't happy with cultural conditions. As a grower, your only job is figuring out what is limiting your plant, and to the greatest extent possible, eliminating the limitations. Al

I have only had 1 experience with SWO and below is what the roots of a 4-5 year old tree in a 5 gallon container looked like after removal. I can only imagine how much worse it would be on a 4" diameter tree with a huge root system choking itself to death. I should note it did throw out new growth about a foot and half or so and had a pair of acorns if I recall correctly even with these circling roots and being buried about 3" or so too deep in the pot. By jp_42_82 at 2011-07-07 By jp_42_82 at 2011-07-07

Next time you go to buy a tree, pull it out of the pot before you buy it. At least in a normal pot, you should see fine roots around the outer surface of the rootball. You may even see a few that are a little larger, but they should not be so big that you cannot either straighten them out (when you are planting the tree) or prune them away (without worrying about hurting the plant). At planting, you really don't want any roots circling around the rootball or kinked in knots. Your tree's roots will grow larger and larger as the tree grows, so picture the rootball as all those roots grow many times their current size. If all the roots are locked into a tight ball (or pot-shaped cylinder), the trees root system will not be sufficient to support the tree or supply water and nutrients. Even if some roots are able to grow out away from the tree, a potbound rootball will become more congested with age, and failure will become more and more likely. Some people even recommend complete removal of all potting material during the planting process. They believe that poor root system structure is so important, that the extra shock, brought on by bare rooting, is worth it. Personally, I prefer a more modest approach. I remove a lot of the excess potting material, but leave all that I can while still being able to ensure that all the roots are straightened out and growing away from the tree. Usually, I form a cone at the base of the plant that allows the roots to radiate away from the base of the tree and slightly down into the soil. If you have questions about this, please let me know. Sometimes describing things like this in few words is not easy. Also, see the link below for what I hope are very helpful instructions about how to plant a tree or shrub. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub

Hi Michal, I enjoy your video's there right to the point and should be easy to follow for the inexperienced on the forums. One day i might try a video if i ever get out of the stoneage. Sure would be fun watching different members video's . Thanks for taking the time to do your video to for me to enjoy. Martin