Try digging up one on the last week of winter or the earliest point possible afterwood. You need a very strong shovel- the best is a long handled, solid steel "King of Spades" from AM Leonard or elsewhere (it's actually a spade). Get the one with the longest blade. If this is too expensive for your budget, at least get something with a reinforced fiberglass handle and a guarantee. If the root-system is concentrated in the top 6 to 9" of soil in a fibrous mat you will be able to easily dig the plant up while saving most of the root system. If the plant doesn't easily pop out of the soil they probably are not worth moving. Blueberries are notoriously slow growing and suffer if you loose too much root. After moving, remove flowers for at least the first year and in subsequent years until plants return to normal vigor. Be sure the new sight has light, rich, highly organic soil and is adequately acidic and well drained. You can use a 50-50 by volume peat to soil mixture (top 9 to 12 inches) to help acquire acidity and organic matter, but peats influence declines as it breaks down so subsequent applications of sulfer may be needed. Keep plants mulched (pine sawdust is good, as are needles but any woodchips will do) and do not let the soil dry out until plants are well established- especially early the first season.

Rabbit-eye blueberries, Vaccinium ashei, (native to the south-eastern USA), also get quite large. I've seen wild rabbit-eye blueberries in my area, close to 10 feet in height. I have heard that recently the scientific community has considered re-classifying all high-bush blueberries as Vaccinium corymbosum, with the rabbit-eyes and others being sub-species, but I'll leave that up to the botanist to decide. Anyway, these do look like Vaccinium of some type, the best way to know for sure is to look at the flowers when the plant is blooming. Vaccinium species typically have a white or pinkish bell shaped flower.

Thanks for the peat and bark tip. I am planting them in the same soil they are in now I am just moving them closer towards the house. It is very sandy acidic soil. Actually I just had to pull up a ton of crowberry plants which tend to grow right along side the blueberries here so I think they should be pretty happy with the soil. Should I add any type of fertilizer at planting?

I too think they look like a cultivated variety or possibly the offspring of a cultivated variety, given the uniform berry growth and clusters. If I had to make a guess I would say one of the older cultivated varieties given the less distinct and smaller cluster size, breeding effort on many of the newer varieties of blueberries tends towards things that make picking easier, like more separation between berry clusters and leaves, larger clusters, more even ripening, etc.