Plants can be saved from molds if it doesn't progress too far. Molds only grow in damp stagnant air conditions. So you need to dry the soil and pot out substantially and cut way back on the watering. Most important improve the air circulation. Use a small fan to increase the air circulation all around them. You may lose those leaves but the new growth should be ok. Some also suggest lightly misting the undersides of the leaves with a 1:10 diluted of hydrogen peroxide in water. I have no personal experience with that. But bottom line, yes, cucumbers will always do better when direct seeded out doors at the proper time. As for the peat pots, if you keep using them then despite what the manufacturer says, be sure to strip them off the root ball prior to transplanting. Dave

I went out to do the white paper test and really didn't see much. After shaking several leaves, I ended up with one tiny beige bug and one darker one. I went ahead and sprayed anyway though since I figured it couldn't do any harm -- 1t. Murphy's Oil Soap to 1 gallon. I'll wash them all off with plain water in a few days and try to be patient. I decided to go the Murphy's Oil Soap route because I always have it in the cleaning cabinet. I've been reading a bit about Neem oil and will see about getting some for future use. Thank you for the advice.

I am watering every other day.Since few days I am spraying to soak entire vine area so that there is enough moisture between all branches of vine and ground and above.I hope this will reduce some stress due to dryness in these hot days and help transpiration.I am waiting to see if the new leaves are free from yellowing.

Thanks for your hints, MD. Yup, I think this is merely insect damage. However, I find those spots too large to be only from aphids. I am guessing it is a combination of aphids, striped beetles and maybe other critters as well. I have Bug B Gon insecticide from EcoSense. I am trying to keep things organic (although I do think that chemicals are no big deal as long as you really want to care for a plant and they don't damage anything you don't mean to, like the neighbour's crop). It says here that it will control all stages of aphids, spider mites and whitefly, spittle bugs, adult and nymph stages of thrips, flea beetles, caterpillars, mealybugs, scale insects and sugar ants. It contains 0.5% pyrethrin and is lebeled as a skin irritant. Here's the deal. I don't like that it is organic AND pretends to take care of all these bugs. If it were true, then nobody would have harmful bugs anymore, so I am suspicious. Somehow, I am thinking it may be damageable to the plants and may also kill beneficials (I am very lucky to have swarms of ladybugs). Do you think the benefits of using it would outweigh the risks? If I indeed have striped beetle damage, this product wouldn't work. Can I do something against those that can be made at home or that is easily purchased? Also, I have Bug B Gon insecticide soap (supposedly controls aphids, earwigs, mealybugs, spider mites, psyllids, pear and rose slugs [sawfly larvae], soft brown scale and whitefly--the soap 47% potassium salts of fatty acids and is lebeled as a skin and eye irritant), but I still don't understand the difference between insecticide and insecticidal soap. Both are used in the same concentration, applied the same way and at the same frequency, so what is the difference? Which one should I use? Should I use one this week and the other next week and alternate? Also, I think right now would be a good time to spray. It is a bit windy, but otherwise, we have nice cloud cover. There is a risk of rain later on and all through the week. Would spraying these products during a cloudy day (daylight but cool and no sunshine) be a problem? I don't want to miss my chance. Please, help as this is about my first bug challenge and I am pretty much a noob.