worthy How deep did you drill the injection ports...I got conflicting instrtution from the guy who sold me this and on the product itself. The guy told me, [at BrockWhite Construtcion] to use a 3/8" bit,...he wanted to sell me a bit, I said that 3/8 looks too small when I seen the plastic port plugs, he said that these plugs..[about 5/8" diameter] will collapse when pounding in. Can you imagine...ruining the the ends of plugs! Fortunately the drill bit shank had a groove for a special hammer drill so I didn't buy it. Instruction on the product calls for 1/2" bit....that's more like it. He said to drill about 1" deep and gluing in the plug with anchor adhesive, question...I push pound the plug, large end in just below surface and glue the rest to the top including seal the surface on top..as I see in your picture. The instruction say, drill 4" deep on 45 degree [alternate] angle until you intersect crack...the guy said straight in. There is a picture on the instruction and the plugs are all straight in, the end of plastic ports are sticking out a fair amount, by this picture it look that these plugs are pushed about 3/4" deep. I don't really see it to drill 4" deep...if this product travels this good? QUESTION How did you drill and did this product come up on the next plug, 24" spacing? Did you inject water first?...they say it works better on wet cracks when Polyurethane getting in contact with moisture, it will foam and expand more. I'm ready to go but wanted to do this right, help is very much appreciated!

Wetdog, A lot of good insight, but I thought I'd add a few notes. In the concrete business, cracks are certainly very common. The pictures Mike posted show primarily shrinkage cracks, which are a result of the shrinkage previously noted in another post (~1/8" in 10'). Control Joints or saw cuts are meant to relieve the stress from shrinkage by allowing the crack to occur where it is more cosmetically acceptable. One of his pictures shows a classic condition on a re-entrant corner - this detail creates a lot of stress (because the concrete is shrinking in two different directions). The only real solution I'd suggest here is a saw cut or control joint on a diagonal. The picture of the drain shows what we call a "restraint to shrinkage" or RTS crack. Here, you would need to put a diamond or similar shaped cut around the drain with diagonal "spokes" around it. Shrinkage cracks can be minimized by limiting the amount of water in the mix (with or without chemical admixtures to assist flowability), and by proper curing. Water curing is most common in residential construction, but can be tricky in terms of the surface cosmetics (if water pools in an area, the conrcete can be lighter in color). Some of the other very small cracks that show up when your concrete is wet (they look like the surface of a dry lake bed) are what some call "hazing" or "map cracking". These occur while the concrete is still in its plastic (wet) phase. These are the cracks that fibermesh can be affective in handling. The fibers tend to hold the cement matrix together during the curing process, but are not nearly strong enough (too low tensile strength) to prevent the shrinkage cracks I spoke of above. So while all concrete cracks, I'd suggest the following: - never allow them to add water to the mix on site - request a mix with the least amount of water possible "low w/c ratio" in concrete speak - make sure control joints or saw cuts are properly laid out to relieve stress from shrinkage - properly cure your concrete (ask about curing compounds like Confilm that will not affect color) - consider fiber to prevent map cracking/hazing

sounds like the plastic does not have enough even pressure on it to hold it open at 120 degrees. maybe they used 90 degree corner bead? either put a lot more screws in each one to even out the pressure, or rip them out and put metal that can be bent to the correct angle.

We had the same problem. I would definitely advise replacing it, but if you need a short-term fix, go to an automotive store and get a fiberglass repair kit (like Bondo), with the fiberglass cloth sheets and hardener. You'll first have to sand down the tub at the cracks through all the color layers until you get to the bare (brown) fiberglass; make sure you sand at least 3 or 4 inches beyond the cracks, as you will need the extra space to lay down the new fiberglass sheets. (Don't be surprised if you find that the cracks are much larger than you thought, or you find more that you didn't know about!) If you can, I would advise sanding with s power-sander, or at least with something attached to a cordless drill-- I did it the first time by hand, and it took forever. Next, get rid of ALL the dust from the tub floor (a wet sponge works well), and cut the fiberglass cloth sheet into pieces to fit where you need it. Expect to put down at least 2 layers, or more if you want some extra security. I stagger the sizes so that the bottom-most layer is the smallest and the layers get progressively larger. Just make sure the layers you are putting on do not go beyond the sanded area of the tub floor-- it won't adhere properly to the colored enamel coating. Next, prepare the liquid hardener as instructed on the box. Wear rubber gloves and make sure the area in which you're working is VERY well-ventilated-- the smell is AWFUL!! Get the cut pieces of fiberglass cloth saturated in the liquid and spread them out over your cracks, making sure to get ALL the air bubbles out from underneath. This will dry pretty quickly (again, read the directions on the box). You can safely do two layers at a time; if you need more, sand in between coats and repeat. When you are satisfied that the floor has been repaired, you can cover over the ugliness with an enamel tub and shower fiberglass paint (sold at Lowe's or HD). This stuff advertises itself as a repair kit, but it's more geared to fixing walls, not floors. We found it in almond and white-- we ended up having to get both and then we mixed the colors to get the color we needed. Note, this stuff takes FOREVER to dry, at least overnight or longer. Be sure to paint it on with a brush and don't let it "puddle." When all was said and done, it took a whole weekend (mostly with waiting for drying time) and cost about $50 total in materials. It lasted for the last year we were in that apartment, and you could only notice it if you were specifically looking for it.