Before spending money on something called "soil" take a good look at the soil you already have. It does little good to add to bad soil some even really good soil but even bad soil with the proper amendments can be made good and often at lower cost then buying some kind of "soil". Contact the people at your local office of the Washington State University Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know your soils pH and present level of certain nutrients and then dig into your soil with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you in making the soil you have into a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants better able to ward off insect pests and plant diseases. Here is a link that might be useful: WSU CES

This is a non issue - move the lights and patch and repaint the ceiling and move on. I had 5 holes in my kitchen ceiling from a bathroom leak. Patched, and repainted. It's not brain surgery.

I will just add to the good advice nancyjane and gardengal have given. The beds you have built sound ideal and the amendments are good. But gardengal really nailed the best approach. This is not a container; you are not creating a soil medium from scratch. What you need is dirt, i.e., what is already there in the beds. You just want to dig it up and add amendments and mix it all together. But the actual dirt is the most critical ingredient - it has all the minerals and biology. The rest of the stuff is just to add organic matter and improve on your native soil and also work some air into the soil. I usually go 60% dirt and 40% amendments by volume. Dig down 1 to 1.5 feet and break up the soil. Add the amendments and then turn it in, mixing it all up. This is hard, sweaty, work. I am now getting up there in years, so for this phase I usually recruit some neighbor high school kids that would like to make some extra money to do the heavy digging for me. The amendments and the air will raise the soil level up 4 to 6 inches. That is perfect, because your 10" sides will accommodate that plus a thick layer of mulch on top. (We are coming up to the fall season - be sure to save and shred all your leaves because they make the perfect winter mulch.) Once things are dug in, you can plant. Carrots, lettuce, spinach, kale and brassicas can be grown from seed for the fall. Don't feel obligated to plant the whole thing. Use a part of it, and then when you get some leaves, heavily mulch the whole raised bed. That mulch will start to decompose over the winter giving you free compost by the time you are ready to plant things like tomatoes and corn next year. Another option is to plant a cover crop in unused portions of the beds - like hairy vetch and rye grass. Those will survive the winter, then you can cut them down and add them to the soil about a month before you need to plant next season. So there is lots of good news here. You have built a great raised bed, you have some good amendments ready, and you are going to be able to plant right away. And you will be able to take some of the stuff you purchased back and get cash! It doesn't get any better than that.

I have used wood chips for years, despite hearing from some gardening sources about the risk of it using up nitrogen in the early stages of decomposition. My reasoning is that a lot of woody debris falls in our forests (we are in the Pacific Northwest), and the soil in the forests is the richest and best we have locally. The forests do not compost the debris first, and the plants thrive. Later I read a biologist's report that the area of depleted nitrogen actually occurs only at the minute microscopic interface between the wood chips and the dirt, and in such a small amount that it will not interfere with regular plant growth (although it could potentially interfere with seedling growth?). Here is what I do for ornamental beds: Cover the ground with cardboard. Add 3 inches of composed manure and 6 inches of wood chips on top of that. Cut holes in the cardboard to plant the plants. This works really well and the soil becomes lovely over time. With regards to the vegetable bed, I have been hesitant to use wood chips due to the very small size of vegetable plants. Will you use only transplants next year? Even large seeds like peas and beans may have a tricky time growing up through a thick layer of wood chip mulch. I did heavily mulch my squash area after planting my transplants, and they did very well, especially considering that our soil is basically plain beach sand with no nutrients. I mulched my tomatoes this year with grass clippings, which worked okay, but not nearly as well as straw. Happy Gardening!